Saturday, May 31, 2008

Planning My Trip to China

Friday, May 30, 2008--Tagbilaran, Bohol (Continued)

Since I was so lazy today, I decided to spend my time in my room working on a project that I needed to tackle. I pulled out my parts of my Chinese travel guide that I brought and worked on developing an itinerary I will follow when traveling there next month (beginning June 9). It took a long time, but finally a plan developed. Here is a list of the places I will visit listed in the sequence I plan to be there and using spellings without the special accent marks that are often used with the Chinese names when written in western script:

Beijing
Datong
Taiyuan
Pingyao
Hancheng (Side trip to Dajiudian)
Xi'an
Guangyuan (Transfer Point only)
Langzhong (If it wasn't destroyed by the earthquake which it may have been)
Chengdu
Leshan
Chonquing
Yangse River Trip through Three Gorges
Yichang
Jishou (Outing to Dehang)
Fenghuang
Hiaihua (Outing to Hongjiang Old Town)
Kunming
Lijiang
Dali
Kunming (Again for flying out)

If you want an idea about any or all of those places, just do a search on Google. Look at the top of your search result to see if Google wants you to search under a suggested alternative spelling. And don't forget that you can also go to Google Images to see photos that have been tagged with those spellings.

I went out for dinner at a restaurant run by the deaf. They had their own bakery and included lasagna with garlic bread on their menu, so I ordered that. It was good, but the sauce was a bit sweet. Afterwards, I had a cinnamon roll they had made there in their bakery.

One interesting thing to mention about the Philippines is that at 17:55 each day, there is a prayer said over television and radio. When it's said, everything stops as if there has been a moment of silence declared. I first noticed it when the waitress bringing a menu to my table a few days ago paused in the middle of the restaurant. Then yesterday, I was at the supermarket buying some water when it came on. Everyone in the whole store stopped and stood still as if they were playing the children's game where a code is used and everyone is supposed to go into stop-action. After the prayer ended, movement began immediately.

Saturday, May 31, 2008--Tagbilaran, Bohol to Dumaguete, Negros Oriental

I awoke earlier than planned. I decided to go ahead and get up. But it was too early for the hot water to be on yet for the shower!! I decided to delay bathing and shaving until my arrival in Dumaguete.

I went downstairs to pay and check out. I gave them 4,500 pesos to pay the 4,250 bill, and they didn't have any change!! Can you believe that a business doesn't keep $6 worth of change?!! That's so typical in these 3rd world countries, though. I had to take back a 500 bill and give them my smaller bills. Otherwise, I don't know what would have happened at that hour (about 6:45 a.m.).

I walked to the port. Got there in plenty of time. Then our boat was late by 30 minutes. But there were a group of blind masseurs who work there at the ferry terminal and at a massage parlor in town singing songs and playing guitars to entertain us. It was nice.

The ferry was full. A lady beside me had been on another boat in the evening headed for the province of Mindanao. Its engine had gone out, and they had to be towed back to Cebu. She arrived where she left about the time she expected to be home. Then she caught my boat coming from Cebu and continuing to Mindanao after the stop in Dumaguete. She was tired and still had a couple of hours or more of traveling when I left.

Well, the hotel here did not have my reservation when I arrived. Fortunately, however, they had a room (but only a double for which I have to pay the double price which is 200 more pesos per night than the single price). It's a nice room, however. Every clean. Very modern. Everything new. I am enjoying it.

Dumaguete is a university town--home of Silliman University. It has a very nice campus which I have already walked through. The buildings are all painted in a cream color with a rusty brown trim and rusty brown brick. There are lots of restaurants, cyber cafes, etc., that cater to the students. The town also has a nice, long promenade along the waterfront. The street there has many restaurants, too. It will be nice relaxing here and exploring, I think.

Friday, May 30, 2008

About to Leave Bohol

Thursday, May 29, 2008--Tagbilaran (Continued)

I finished reading Disgrace by J. M. Coetzee. It was a Booker Prize winner and is competing this year for the Booker's Booker--the best book to have won the Booker Prize in the history of the award. It seems to be a front runner along with Salmen Rushdie's Midnight's Children. It is a very well written book about a college professor who has a history of affairs with students and get's fired when one complains. But it goes from there to interweave a number of stories which all seem to paint a picture of life in South Africa. Unfortunately, it is a disheartening picture that questions whether there can be long-range hope for South Africa. I gave the book 3 1/2 stars out of 4 mainly because I found the side story about the professors research and writings to be boring.

For dinner, I ordered Butter Chicken. I thought it would be chicken in a sauce. Instead, it was fried in a spicy batter. It was very tasty. Since there was no sauce, other than ketchup on the side, I had to eat the ketchup with the rice to keep it from all being dry.

Friday, May 30, 2008--Tagbilaran

I have been lazy today. I stayed in my room listening to the news and reading until noon. Now I will go to a mall to shop for a couple of things I need. This is my last day on the island of Bohol. I had thought of taking a jeepney to a beach just to see it, but I think I will just continue to relax. I have to go to bed early, since I must be up tomorrow morning earlier than usual to catch my 8 a.m. ferry for Dumaguete on the island of Negros. My next posting will be from there.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Last Days on Bohol

Wednesday, May 28, 2008--Tagbilaran (Continued)

I was tired and dirty when I got back to Tagbilaran after my circular trip on the buses today. The buses have open windows, so the dust comes in and gets on everyone. I washed my hands with soap, but I just splashed water on my face not realizing how dirty it would be. When I wiped it dry with the towel, that part of the towel became black! Now I know to use soap after bus travel here.

I went to two different seafood places thinking I might eat seafood this evening. However, both places had their seafood pre-cooked. The fish looked good, but I didn't want to have dry fish (which is what I think it would have been after being re-warmed for serving). Other than seafood, all the other dishes were pre-cooked also and setting in pots on the counter top. I looked at them. Most were made with lots of organs in them. I finally gave up and went to a nearby place and ordered noodles again. Noodle dishes seem to be the only ones that are prepared after ordering here. I got pancit guisado. It was a noodle dish with some vegetables, a few pieces of pork, and lots of sauce.

Thursday, May 29, 2008--Tagbilaran

I was so tired last night from my travels around the island that I went to bed at 21:30. I slept for 11 hours until 8:30 this morning. Even then, I was a bit sluggish and took my time getting ready and leaving the room.

I went to get my ferry ticket today for going to Dumaguete on the island of Negros on Saturday morning at 8:00. This is the last week of school holidays, so I thought that families might be traveling home over the weekend. Therefore, I wanted to make sure I had a ticket for the boat. They don't sell more tickets than they have seats on the ferries. I lucked out, too. The man asked my age. When I said I was 62, he asked to see some ID. I showed him a copy of my passport which I keep in my bag all the time, and he sold me the ticket at a discount of about 25%.

From there, I walked to a nearby market area to look around. There is a department store there, too, so I went inside to buy a cola to keep me hydrated. As I wandered through the store, I ended up visiting with the employees in the backpack area. They have more people assigned there right now because of back-to-school sales, and they were all just standing around. It was one guy and about 5 women. Filipinos are friendly in general, so I wasn't surprised that they wanted to talk. I took advantage of the opportunity to ask them where I could eat that would serve certain Filipino dishes that I like and have not seen on the menus where I have been so far. They thought it was funny that I knew about such dishes and that I had not been finding them at the restaurants. I stayed maybe 20 minutes visiting with them, then I left so that they wouldn't get in trouble with their supervisor.

On the way back toward the area of town where I am staying, I stopped at the main plaza and sat on a bench that was in the shade of the trees. I just relaxed and read from my guidebook. Now, I have stopped at the cyber cafe before going back to my room where I will rest, read, and maybe nap for a while before going out again for dinner.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Exploring Bohol

Monday, May 26, 2008--Tagbilaran (Continued)

After finishing at the cyber cafe, I stopped at a large restaurant half a block from my hotel called Jo's Chicken. It's an open air place with live trees in the upstairs dining area. I sat at a table by the railing and watched the action down on the street below and at the barber shop across the street while I waited for my food. They specialize in BBQ chicken and pork, so I got a combination plate with 1/4 of a chicken on a skewer with a tart lime taste and 5 chunks of pork on a skewer with a thick sweet sauce. Both were good, but the pork was a bit tough. Would have enjoyed having two pieces of the chicken instead. Ate it with rice and a sauce for the rice.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008--Tagbilaran

I was tired all day today. I guess it was due to walking with my luggage so much yesterday--going to the port in Cebu and then searching for a room here in Tagbilaran. I slept until 8:30 and didn't leave the room until almost 10:30. That's later than usual.

I went to the center of town to see the sights. I bought a bottle of water, then I went to the Cathedral, the state capitol, and passed some old homes. I returned to the port to get some information from the tourist office. Then I returned to the room and immediately fell asleep--a deep sleep that lasted over an hour.

Around 17:00, I went out again. This time I walked out the road from my hotel into the countryside. I always enjoy getting out of towns. The people there are usually so surprised to see a tourist walking by, and they also tend to be friendly. Many people said hello to me. I eventually stopped when I came to a church where I could hear native singing. It seemed to be only women and girls inside with the priest, and all the girls were wearing angel wings. I don't know what the ceremony was about, but the singing was beautiful. I sat on a concrete-filled tire beside a man and his child on another tire. After the singing ended, I backtracked into town again.

I ate at Saya's, another big restaurant in the area. They specialize in Filipino food, and the waitress said that the noodles were the best. Therefore, I ordered pancit canton which is one of my favorite Filipino foods (although I like pancit bihon which was not on the menu better). The dish I got was huge. It filled a large oval plate and would have been enough to feed two people. It had egg noodles, green onion, carrots, pieces of meat (probably beef, but maybe dog, horse, or goat). pieces of chorizo (sausage), and pieces of chicharon (fried pork skin). To go with it, I ordered a San Miguel beer. They had one that was grande, so I got that figuring it would be 600 ml the way the large beers are in Brazil and other countries these days. But it was 1000 ml! That was a lot of beer, but it cost less than $1.50 U.S. and it helped me get through a lot of pancit canton!

Back in the room, I watched a couple of films on TV. Then a read a little before going to bed at 23:00.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008--Around Bohol

I decided to go out to some of the tourist sites on the island today. First, I walked to the bus terminal which is out on the edge of town--a 30 minute walk from my hotel. I caught a bus to Tubigon. There I saw the city hall and the church--both nice old buildings. It wasn't as big of a town as I expected, but it had a nice feel about it. It was a small city with a rural atmosphere somehow.

Then I caught a bus going from there to Carmen where the Chocolate Hills, the major tourist site of Bohol, are located. On the trip, I sat with a 23-year-old man who works at a cyber cafe in Tubigon and visited with him. There were plenty of the Chocolate Hills along the roadway so that it wasn't necessary to hire transportation to go out to the the "official" site. I don't think they are anything really special, and had questioned whether to even to go the area. However, it is the major thing to see here, so I went. But I didn't see more than could be seen from the highway. I did like the land around there, however, and decided to take a walk in the area. I chose a country road that took me through small villages and past interesting rural homes with walls woven out of leaves in nice geometric patterns. Eventually, my route brought be out at the highway, and I caught a final bus to bring me back to Tagbilaran.

On the final bus, I sat next to Charlie, a boy I took to be about 7 years old. But he proved to be 12 and to be a good English speaker. We visited the whole way back into town. He lives in Carmen and was coming here for 2 days to stay with his sister while visiting both her and his two brothers who live here in town. He was looking forward to eating at Jolly Bee, the Filipino burger chain. Carmen is too small to have one, so going there is a treat when he comes into Tagbilaran. When the bus stopped at one place, there were people selling food items through the windows. He bought a package that had five things inside wrapped like tamales but using banana leaves. He offered me one. It is a special treat inside made of sweetened and jellied coconut. It was tasty and fun to try.

The day is gone now. And I am tired again. I will find a place to eat tonight and stay inside again, I guess. But it was been a good outing even though I spent almost 6 hours on buses.

Monday, May 26, 2008

The Island of Bohol

Sunday, May 25, 2008--Cebu (Continued)

After the rains ended about 17:00, I went out to find something to eat for the day. The first place I tried had several pots of stews that looked good. But when I asked what each was, the appeal left me. One was heart. One was lung. One was stomach. And on, and on, and on. I went next door, and they had some good looking chunks of pork in a dark heavy sauce. I got a plate of that and a serving of rice. The meat was tender and tasty, but it was a bit salty. The rice was great, so I enjoyed the meal even if it was too salty for me.

From there, I went to pick up my laundry. I arrived about 10 minutes too early, but there just happened to be two processionals passing in the area. Each had a drum and bugle corps. One was already down the street, so I could only see and hear it at a distance. But the other was passing just as I arrived. It had lots of young girls in fancy dresses. And people were carrying arches of flowers over each girl. Not sure what the situation was, but it was fun to see and hear.

My clothes were cleaner than they often are when I get laundry done. I guess they didn't go to the muddy river to do them!

Stayed in the room in the evening and watched the movie 300 about the Spartans fighting the Persions. It got good reviews, and it was an interesting film. I've had trouble with the sound on my TV, though. The music in the background tends to cover up what is being said so much that I often cannot hear the dialogue. But I enjoyed the film anyway.

Monday, May 26, 2008--Cebu to Bohol (Tagbilaran)

I have had a strange dream pattern lately. Normally when I awaken from a dream, I can go back to sleep and any dreams I have are about other topics. But for the past couple of weeks, I have tended to continue my dreams after going back to sleep. I don't think I have ever had that happen to me before. Sometimes, it happens several times that the same dream continues after I become conscious and then go back to sleep.

I haven't weighed lately, but I am tell I am still losing weight. My pants were a little snug on me when I left. Now, they are very loose with the waistband overlapping almost 2 inches (5 cm). It's amazing how easy it is to get used to eating only one meal a day when there is no kitchen to go to for a snack.

I walked to the ferry terminal this morning. Yesterday, I walked that way and decided I would take a taxi due to the heat and the barriers. But this morning it was cloudy. And I had plenty of time. So I decided to head out on my own. It only took 38 minutes to get from my hotel to the terminal. That's not bad since it was 1/3 of the way across town. But I was probably the only one who walked there, I bet.

While waiting for the boat, I couldn't help but think about the ferry disasters that have been rather prevalent over time in the Philippines. But most of those have been on small, overloaded boats. The boat I am taking is a catamaran with assigned seats, so it won't be overloaded.

I arrived in Tagbilaran at 14:00 and was so happy to be here since the boat had been so cold from the air conditioning. I had a problem finding a place to stay, however. Coralandia, where I had decided to stay based on my guidebook and on someone else's recommendation, just wasn't nice enough. It smelled and the room was too dark for me. And they have loud karaoke music until 1 a.m. As I walked back into town, I checked several other places I passed and others I had listed when I did my research. None of them had a single; they all wanted me to take a double which was priced about 300 pesos more per night. I don't know if they are using a bait and switch trick or if they really are full. There seems to be a conference in town, and this is the last week of school holidays here, so maybe the rooms are truly rented. Anyway, I finally settled on the Meridian Hotel, Room 18. It isn't great, but it was cheaper than the others for a double without being too bad. It has cable TV and a/c, so that helps. And the bed seems okay. But the room is a bit dark with dark parquet floors and curtains which only open part of the way. It costs me $5 more per night than the hotel where I stayed in Cebu, and it is a step down in quality, I think. I'm not too excited about staying there for long. Therefore, I will either have to find somewhere else or leave Bohol earlier than I had planned.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Relaxing in Cebu

Saturday, May 24, 2008--Cebu

After spending two hours on the Internet catching up with things, I went to buy a ferry ticket for leaving Cebu on Monday. I would have left tomorrow, but my laundry won't be ready in time for that. I will catch a boat at noon Monday for the 1 3/4 hour trip to Bohol, a nearby island known for its beautiful beaches and clear water.

I walked back through the downtown area after that. I went by the market area but didn't get to explore it. Something had happened there. The crowd was standing around looking, and the police were re-routing traffic. But I wandered through the rest of the center of town looking at it without my guidebook in hand this time. I tried to eat lunch at a restaurant there that is the oldest in town and considered to be one of the best, but it had sign saying it is closed for 30 days. That's probably because this is the school holidays in the Philippines. In fact, all the stores are having back-to-school sales right now. So I walked back to my area of town again.

I failed to get a good meal again. I ordered a plate of grilled marlin with rice, soup, and tea. The grilled marlin had a nice taste to it, but it was a bit dry from being cooked and then reheated. The rice was the main problem though. I don't think they put any salt in it when they cooked it. Its taste make the soup and the marlin more bland. At least I had some soy sauce to put over it, but it wasn't enough.

I got back to my room just in time for the rains to come. I thought we were going to avoid them today, but around 17:00 they arrived. And they kept on and on. I am glad I had already eaten. I watched an Australian film on TV and read from the book I am reading right now.

Sunday, May 25, 2008--Cebu

I thought I was headed for a park this morning based on what was on my map. But it ended up being a cemetery. This city just does not have parks other than one small one in the center of town that is currently torn up for subway construction. I went a little further to the biggest mall in town and spent time there instead. While resting, I talked to a guy who was feeding his sister's baby while she shopped. He said that people go to the beach in a nearby town rather than to parks. Since I am going to an island known for its beaches tomorrow, I really didn't want to do that. So I explored the mall, watched the people, and then returned to my part of town.

It's mid afternoon now. I am feeling hungry, so I will go to find a place to eat. I have to pick up my laundry after 18:00 which means after dark. But then I will be ready to head to greener pastures tomorrow.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Lazy Day in Cebu

Friday, May 23, 2008--Cebu

I had been going through most of my clothes in Japan, so I needed to get laundry done. I had seen a couple of nearby laundry places yesterday while going past various tourist sites, so I bagged several shirts, a pair of pants, and a pair of shorts and took them there this morning. Unfortunately, they won't be ready until Sunday afternoon. I had planned to leave Sunday, but I guess I will stay another day. I am in no rush really.

Also nearby where I live are many colleges and universities. Schools are a big business in the Philippines due to the high birth rate and to the unemployment rate. It is not unusual for a person to have a university degree (even a degree as a doctor, nurse, or lawyer) and have no work or to work in a menial job at the mall. And of course, there are many with no work. Some of those go back to school to get another education. So schools thrive. The nearest school to where I live--just a block away--is the College of Education. But there are 3-4 universities in the area. That means there are plenty of cyber cafes (and cheap ones at about 33 cents per hour) and lots of small eating places around.

Something I had forgotten, but it is always a problem in a third world country, is the fact that one must guard his small bills. So many of the businesses are small, family-owned places. They don't keep lots of cash on hand. And it is never a case of the customer is right. If you take out your money to pay a bill that is 195 pesos and you have 2 hundreds but also have some 20s and a 50, they will insist on getting their payment in a combination of your smallest bills. So what I do is I separate my smaller bills from my money clip before approaching to pay so that all they see are the 2 hundreds (which should not be taking advantage of them when the bill is 195), a 500, and a 1000. Then they take the 2 hundreds. That way, I have a 20 when the bill is 18, a 50 when the bill is 35, etc., rather than being left with my 2 hundreds which are too big for trying to pay for a bill of 18 or 35. Of course, related to this problem is a problem with the ATMs; they only dispense 1000 peso bills!!! The key to that is to go to a large supermarket or mall and buy something small. Those large corporations will ask for a smaller bill, but they will have change to give when you say you cannot produce another due to the ATM giving out only 1000 peso bills.

I was at the cyber cafe for 2 hours after dropping off my laundry. Then I really had nothing special left to do. I decided to go out to one of the malls just to see what it was like. Well, it was much like everywhere else in the Philippines. Although it is probably only 20 years old, it looked to be 50. The floor tiles were chipped and cracked (although they were putting new floors in one small wing of it), the decorations were worn and dusty, etc. It was a huge mall with 3 floors and probably 75 shops on each floor. And it was full of people. So I wandered and looked. I tried to find a place to eat, but nothing really appealed to me. Their eating court area seemed rather dirty. The sit-in restaurants just didn't appeal to me, since they specialized in things such as Chinese, Italian, etc., food. The heavy rain of the day came while I was at the mall, however, so going there was a good idea so that I was occupied and missed the rain.

When I came out of the mall, it was sunny again and I headed back toward my hotel wishing it had a pool. Instead, I entered my room, turned on the a/c, and feel asleep. Afterwards, I turned on the TV and watched the end of a movie and then another film. By then it was evening, so I just went downstairs to the hotel restaurant and had homba which the menu described as "pork stewed in aromatic spices." It was a chunk of pork meat with the skin and fat layers attached that had been stewed in a sauce with onions. It came with a portion of rice, and I ordered a San Miguel beer to go with it. It was okay, but it still was not the tasty Filipino meal I am wanting!

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Exploring Cebu

Thursday, May 22, 2008--Cebu

I got up excited about exploring the city. I dressed and started walking toward downtown. About 2/3 of the way there, I saw a cyber cafe and went in. That's when I posted yesterday's entry. When I came out of the cyber cafe, it was just beginning to rain--a heavy, tropical downpour. I stood on the sidewalk under the awning with others. The rain continued and continued. I hadn't brought my umbrella with me because it was sunny when I left the hotel. But it wouldn't have helped. It was too much of a storm for an umbrella to be any help. As time passed, the water started coming up over the sidewalk. The drainage system just couldn't handle it all. I moved further back. Then I moved over to the side more as the water kept approaching me. Of course, I could have always re-entered the cyber cafe and spent more time on the computer, but I had been there at least 1 1/2 hours and had nothing else I needed to do at the time. There was a brief lul, and the waters receded some, but then the big drops returned and the water level got higher. Before it finally ended, the water was lapping up against the souls of my shoes. But it did stop maybe 25 minutes later. I worked my way back to my room hoping it wouldn't begin again until I got there. I made it, but I still was worried about getting caught in it, so I stayed in the room and watched the news on TV for 1 1/2 hours. By then, it still had not started again, so I went out taking my umbrella and hoping. It never rained again for the rest of the day.

I returned downtown, because I needed a map from the tourist office. My guidebook pages did not include one. And the airport tourist desk did not have any when I came through there. I had looked at a very small map just enough to tell that I could follow my street and it would take me to the park where the guidebook said the tourist office was located.

Yesterday in my post, I made several comparisons between here and India. The day just reinforced them. I am a bit surprised. I remembered the Philippines as being better than India, but they seem to be on a par with each other. The polution on the roadways is horrible here. People often have to walk on the streets. The buildings look old due to polution and lack of upkeep even if they were just built in the 60s or 70s. Dirt is not so obvious or a concern. (The keys on the keyboard at the cyber cafe yesterday were thick with dirt and felt sticky because of it.) There are beggars everywhere, and they are also filthy. The one big difference is that the tourist sites in the Philippines do not try to gouge the tourist the way the ones in India do with their extravant charges for foreigers that are 20 times what locals pay; here the prices are the same for locals and tourists and are reasonable.

I managed to find the tourist office after asking a couple of times, and the lady there was very helpful. Then I made a tour of the downtown tourist sites--Ft. San Pedro and its museums, the Cathedral, the Basilica de Santo Nino from the same time period, the cross left by Magellan, a monument to Magellan, the Heritage of Cebu monument, and an old colonial house. The fort is well reconstructed and has beautiful gardens. It is often the location of weddings and parties. The two churches are nice 400-year-old buildings, but the basilica of the child (nino) was much prettier than the cathedral. Magellan's cross was encased in another cross to protect it, so no one really ever sees the original. The heritage monument was wonderful! And I would love to spend the rest of my days here living in the house I toured with its wonderful wooden floors and wood paneling, its light breezes, etc.

By the way, in case you didn't know this, Magellan died here in Cebu on his around-the-world trip. I'm on my 8th trip, but he was on his first (and the first ever by anyone who had ever lived). I think I should survive fine and finish my trip which his men had to do without him.

I needed a haircut badly, so on the way back to my room, I searched for a barber shop and found one. I got a great haircut. Why is it that I never get a good one in the U.S., but I can go to a place like this and pay only $1 and walk out with it looking so good? In the U.S., I usually have to go home and "fix" it by trimming to make the ends even.

It gets light very early here and then gets dark early, too. By 6:00, it was dark. I went back out in the evening to find a place to eat. Nearby is one of the major shopping areas of town built around a circle. I walked there. I passed many sidewalk stalls using burning flames for lights and several small indoor eateries. It was hard to see what they had. I actually tried to find a place recommended in my guidebook, but they didn't gave a specific address and I never located it. Instead, I went to the basement of a department store and chose one of the eateries there. I was not too pleased with what I got. As I sat there watching, I could see that the place next to where I ordered is more popular and has better food. My plate had a bowl of noodle soup, two Filipino egg rolls, a helping of rice, and a small glass of tea. It was fine, though.

I didn't like being out at night. There are too many beggars. And they are often concentrated where they cannot be avoided--on overhead walkways that must be used to cross major streets, for instance. There were also gangs of young kids together who could be a problem if they had the opportunity to not be observed. Therefore, I returned to the room after eating and watched TV for the evening, including a Clint Eastwood film (both as director and actor) which I had not seen before.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

In the Philippines

Monday, May 19, 2008--Fukuoka (Continued)

I was at the Rainbow Center for international visitors when I posted the last time. After posting to the Internet, I stayed there for several hours due to the rain. I watched Cnn news, read TIME, read newspapers, etc. Then I returned to my hotel stopping only to eat lunch.

I had lunch in another noodle shop. The one where I ate on Sunday was closed, so I found another with lots of activity. I ordered the pork rice bowl set figuring I would get rice and pork and forgetting what "set" means in Japan. It mean a combination luncheon. I got a huge bowl of noodle soup with pork (with a nice creamy texture and a taste of mushrooms) along with a bowl of rice with 5 pieces of pork on top and a tasty thick sauce. I was stuffed afterwards. Guess I went off my diet.

It never stopped raining, so I just stayed inside and read the rest of the day. I also did some planning for my travels to the Philippines.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008--Fukuoka

Well the sun is out and I am invigorated from that big meal yesterday. Today, I went out and did almost everything I had planned to do both yesterday and today, since it is my last day in Japan.

I took the subway far out to a new development along the waterfront because I was interested in seeing the architecture, including the Fukuoka Tower which is a fmous landmark--a communications tower sheathed in mirrors. It is a fascinating area architecturally, and it includes the Yahoo! Dome, their indoor stadium for baseball and soccer.

I walked back to town making stops. I first went to a beautiful park with a lake in the center. I was surprised at the number of people out walking and jogging on a weekday. I stopped at the art museum only to learn that their regular exhibitions were closed. I don't know why, since the lady didn't really speak English. I could have visited their special exhibition, but I couldn't tell what it was. The paper she showed me had only Japanese writing on it. So I continued to town.

I went back to the Rainbow Center planning to check e-mail and update the blog only to find that it was closed for the day due to it being the 3rd Tuesday of the month. Maybe that was the reason the regular exhibits at the museum were closed. It's a common closing date in Japan for some reason.

After checking at a tourist office to make sure it would be open, I took a train from there out to Dazaifu to visit the National Museum--one of only 4 such museums in Japan. It is in a very interesting building built of blue metal and glass an having a roofline that is like a wave. The buildign is massive, and all the exhibits are of high quality. I spent about 1 1/2 hours going through it. They had special exhibits from Kyoto, but since I had already visited that museum several years ago, I didn't pay to see them. But I did go to the nearby temple which is considered to be one of the most important in Japan.

I returned by train getting back about 15:00. I went back to the same noodle place. This time I ordered the noodle set. It was a bowl of the noodle soup with a side dish of 5 fried dumplings with rice. It must have been the right choice, because 3 of the next 4 customers also ordered it. But again, I was stuffed!!

Before going back to the room, I went to Canal City which is a new development just a couple of blocks away. It is a huge hotel/shopping mall/cinema/live theater complex with a small river running through it. The river has dancing fountains like at the Balagio in Las Vegas, but about 1/8th the scale in size. The colors are dramatic like the works of the architect from Mexico who did the San Antonio Library and the addition to the Corpus Christi Art Museum.

I was tired by then and had nothing else on my list that I could do due to it being 3rd Tuesday. Therefore, I went back to the room for the evening. There, I finished reading Man and Boy by Tony Parsons. It is a man's coming-of-age story--meaning his finally growing up and maturing at around age 30! It is meant to be funny, but it isn't guffaw funny. I enjoyed it enough to give it 2 1/2 stars out of 4--2 stars for the first half and almost 3 stars for the second half.

Some surprises about Japan that have been on my mind since I got here: 1) There are so many bicyclists. I didn't remember this from before. Unfortunately, they are on the sidewalks with the pedestrians, but it isn't too much of a problem since they seem to be quite sensative about not creating trouble. 2) Rooms and meals are much more reasonable than I expected them to be. But one of the men at my hotel commented that prices are much better today than they were 10 years ago in Japan. 3) It is cooler than I expected. I have been in stiffling heat in September here, and the last time it was hot without being too humid. But this time, even though I have been in southern Japan, the air has been cool with temperatures in the 15-24 C (60-74 F) range. That's been nice.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008--Fukuoka to Seoul to Cebu

It has been a long day of traveling. I got up about 7:00. I tried using the hotel computer again, but it is hopeless. I did, however, find a website that would let me send e-mail via it, and it worked! No regular e-mail or postings (Yahoo, GMail, Blogger, etc.) would work from that computer. I had to send an e-mail to Chiang Mai to correct an error I made two days ago. I sent an e-mail to the pension where I have a reservatin in July to stay saying that I would be there tonight late. The date in July matched today, and the name of the pension is similar to the one here n Cebu. So I had to let them know someway not to keep a room vacant for me. Glad I found a solution. After that, it was 8:30 and I left the hotel to catch the subway to the airport.

I changed my leftover money into dollars (since they didn't have Filipino pesos), went through security, and waited. I deposited my leftover coins into a Habitat box taht I enjoyed. It was constructed as one of those drops that spirals coins down a funnel. Below the funnel hanging from a crossbar was a bell so that every coin rang a bell as it dropped. That's a good idea. I am sure it promotes more giving than normal.

My flight left there at noon and arrived in Seoul just a little over an hour later. Then the LONG wait began. I had 7 hours before my flight to Cebu. I wandered up and down and down and up. At least it gave me my exercise for the day. I watched CNN news. I watched BBC news. I read in my new book. And finally that long period of waiting ended and we boarded our flight.

We arrived in Cebu just after midnight. I was lucky. The plane was packed (although I had an empty seat beside me) and I had a seat up front. I got off the plane and was about the 5th person in line for immigration. Only 3 stations were open to handle about 175 people! I got through and had to wait a while for my luggage. But when it came, 3/4 of the people were still in line for immigration. I went outside and got money from the ATM and got a prepaid taxi to downtown (3 times the normal price due to it being TO town and to it being after midnight). Anyway, I got to the Pacific Pensionne about 1:00 (2:00 Japan time) was was tired.

My first impressions of Cebu: 1) The airport smells more like India than Japan. It has mold in the air. It also looks more like India than Japan. It is not a modern facility. 2) Again like India, there are many people on the streets after midnight--walking, sitting and visiting, etc. 3) The Philippines is still one of the less developed countries in Asia. It compares more to Myanmar than it does to Malaysia. To be honest, it is more like India in general appearance and condition of infrastructure.

My room seems so BIG after those small rooms in Japan. It is nice. It has white tile floors, a comfy foam bed, a/c, telephone, and best of all--cable TV with movie channels and international news channels. It is in a good location, too. I made the right choice.

Spending Update: I spent $1152.56 over 17 days in Japan for an average of $67.80 per day. Train passes good for 10 days accounted for $13 of the daily average. Transportation is one of the biggest expenses when visiting Japan.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Computer Problems

Note: This is the 3rd time for me to type this entry. If you see it, there may not be another until I get to the Philippines on Thursday. My hotel computer has a slow connection and won`t work. It is raining here, and I don`t want to walk so far in the rain again just to post to the computer.

Saturday, May 17, 2008--Beppu (Continued)

I walked back to the area where I was staying after posting onto the computer downtown. It is a steady uphill walk all the way. I tried to follow the map, but none of them give much detail. At some point, I took a wrong branch, and it caused me to go even further up the mountain than where I needed to be. After 1 1/2 hours, I figured I was too high and asked someone. Fortunately, I was directly above where I needed to be. I just had to walk straight downhill to get to my ryokan. That took another 30 minutes.

I meant to take a mud bath, but when I got to where I thought they were, it was only a garden with mud pools. The guidebook had not been clear about this. And I didn`t have my tourist information with me to find out where one of the true mud bath places was. I just gave up on the idea and went back to the bath house where I had been last night. It`s one of the best baths I have ever visited, so I enjoyed being there again.

I finished reading The Good Earth by Pearl Buck. I am pretty sure that I read it either in high school or college, but I enjoyed reading it again. I gave it 3 1/2 stars out of 4.

Sunday, May 18, 2008--Beppu to Fukuoka

The family staying in the room next to mine last night was noisy until late and then was noisy this morning. Therefore, I am tired. I got up earlier than expected because of them and just went down to the station early for my train. But the whole train trip is a blur to me, because I kept nodding off on the train. Too bad.

Well, as the day progressed, I remained totally exhausted from the long uphill hike yesterday and the lack of sleep. I didn`t really feel like doing anything. But my hotel here is like most places in Japan--check-in is not until sometime in the afternoon--usually 16:00, but fortunately today, it was 15:00. That gave me 3 hours to waste while being tired, however, before I could get into the room.

I looked for a place to eat and found a booming place. It was full and had a long line waiting. Every time someone entered to get in line, all the employees would yell loudly. I could see through the windows that it was a noodle soup place. I figured it must be the best with so many people, so I entered, got my yell, and got in line. Fortunately, they had a printed English menu. With the advice of the lady in line behind me, I ordered the buttered noodle soup with pork. I didn`t realize at the time that I would be ruining my diet. When it came to me, there was a huge slab of butter (at least 2 tablespoons worth) on top of the soup to melt and blend in with it! But it was delicious soup. I`ll probably go back there again for another meal.

From there I went to the end of the block where there is a very upscale shopping mall with the strange name of "eeny meeny miny mo." I explored it and found a whole floor of top-design modern furniture. I enjoyed looking and tried to find a dining table I would like. Unfortunately, all I found were ones that seat 4 or 6. I am looking for one that is bigger.

I tried to stay awake in the room, but I kept nodding off. Then I forced myself to go downstairs to use the computer around 19:30. Unfortunately, it is a horrible computer with a slow connection. I typed my entry for this blog twice and lost it twice before giving up. I couldn`t even get it to load my e-mail for me to read. What a waste of time.

I wandered through the nearby entertainment district. And I walked through the ultra-modern Canal City development that is near me. But I was still tired. I went back to the room and went to bed at 21:00.

Monday, May 19, 2008--Fukuoka

Well, rain has arrived to spoil my plans. One of the reasons I wanted to return to Japan was due to an article I had read about Fukuoka and its dynamic life and architecture. I had planned to go out exploring while here. But with rain, I don`t fell like going anywhere. I saw enough yesterday to have an idea of what the city is like. But I had planned so much while here, including a train trip outside of town today. I won`t do anything with the rain coming down as hard as it is, however.

Note: Don`t know if the weather will allow me to come back to here tomorrow or not. You can just check to see if there is a post. Otherwise, wait until Thursday.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Baths in Beppu

Friday, May 16, 2008--Beppu (Continued)

After leaving the International Center where I typed into my blog, I caught the bus to my ryokan. It is in an area up on the side of the mountain about 4 km (2 1/2 miles) away, so pulling the suitcase up there didn`t seem to be a good idea. On the bus, there was another westerner, and we visited. He was a young man from The Netherlands, an IT specialist here for vacation on his own. He was on his way up to go to the mud baths. We visited the whole way up. He was a nice guy and visiting with someone was enjoyable for a change.

I had no problem finding my place. It is the nicest place I have stayed so far. It is completely remodeled inside. There are many Japanese details that make it special. For instance, I have a round window covered in rice paper that goes from my room to the hallway. There is a detailed wooden scene that is like a sculpture as a part of the window. There are fresh flowers in the hallways and in the rooms. There are 3 baths--one outdoor and two indoors for bathing in hot spring waters. My room has a mini-fridge, a telephone, a TV, A/C, etc. The owner came to the room with me and sat at the table and made green tea for me and gave me a cookie to go with it as a welcoming ceremony. She also gave me a gift--a set of socks that are like mittens with separate places for the big toe from the rest of the toes so that they can be worn with thong sandals.

I went to the nearby Hyotan Onsen (bathhouse) around 18:00 and spent almost 3 hours there. It is a huge complex that has an indoor rock pool, an outdoor rock pool, a pebble pool, 2 hot baths, a hot steam room, a hotter steam room, a hot sand room, and a water spout massage pool. I met Matthew there. He is half New Zealander and half Japanese. He went to the American school in Tokyo (Tokyo International School) and speaks English with an American accent. We sat and visited about 45 minutes while resting our legs in one of the hot pools. He works for Yamaha Motorcycles and is their regional sales manager for western Africa.

Saturday, May 16, 2008--Beppu

I weighed this morning in the bath at my ryokan. I have lost 6 kg (13 lbs.) in the two weeks I have traveled. I want to lose 8-13 more kg (18-28 lbs) before getting home. Then I will develop a plan to keep my weight down while I am there.

I will not miss the Japanese pillows when I leave here. They are filled with hallow pellets of some kind. It is like sleeping on a bag filled with beans.

This whole area of town smells slightly of sulphur. And all around, there are clouds of steam rising--even out of the sidewalk vents. This afternoon, I am off for a mud bath!!

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Kyushu Island

Thursday, May 15, 2008--Kumamoto (Continued)

While at the International Center, I asked one of the ladies to help me with some sites that were in Japanese only. I was still trying to get a reservation for Beppu for the weekend. She tried, but every place we checked was either full or it was too late to try to get a reservation over the computer. I went downstairs to relax and read some English language papers. Just as I got up to leave, the lady called to me. She telephoned one last place that we had not been able to reach on the computer, and they had a room! What a relief that was to know I would have a place to stay for the next two nights. Weekends in tourist areas are always busy in Japan.

I ate a steamed bun after that and wandered the downtown area. Then I went back to my room to get the two books I had finished. The International Center has a book exchange table, so I wanted to take them there. I was so tired, however, that I rested a while.

In the evening, I went back. I gave up my two books and picked out two more to take from their table. One is set in India, and the other is a funny book, I think. Will see if they are good. While there, I read Newsweek and watched the BBC news. Then I returned to my room totally exhausted from the day.

I discovered that my TV (and maybe some of the others) can get more channels than the local ones. However, it had been programmed to get only the local channels. I tried to figure out how to auto-program it for all channels, but it was in Japanese letters and I never could figure it out. I often find that I must reprogram TVs when I travel, since the English language channels have been deleted manually by other guests so they won`t have to pass them when changing channels.

Friday, May 16, 2008--Beppu

I took the train this morning at 8:30 for Beppu. It is across the island of Kyushu from Kamamoto. We went through the mountains and the woods on a 2-car train. It was a beautiful trip. Many older Japanese were in the train dressed in their hiking gear--floppy hats, vests, boots, etc. They got off at various sites in the mountains. The main stop up there is a place with several volcanoes. Many people hike to the rims of them. I would have enjoyed spending a couple of days in the mountains if I had more time. But....

When I arrived, the lady in the tourist office recommended a local restaurant. I went to it, since she said it is the best in town. I had the best lunch I have had since coming here. I had chicken tempura. It came with salad (a fistfull rather than just a tiny dab), some other vegetables, a bowl of rice, a bowl of soup, a dip of ice cream, and coffee for only $8. In the background was nice jazz. Two other diners were there. It is such a small place that it probably won`t seat more than 20 people.

I had only big bills, so I went to the International Tourist Office hear. One of the ladies walked me to the bank and helped me get smaller bills so I can take the bus. My ryokan is up into the hills, so I need to take a bus rather than walk the 4 km (2 1\2 miles). They have a comptuer here, so I am writing on it right now before going up the hill.

Beppu is known for its thermal baths. There are mud baths, sand baths, hot springs baths, saunas, etc. I will spend the rest of today and all of tomorrow relaxing and will go to the baths at my ryokan and to 2-3 others. Don`t know when I will be back on the computer, since I don`t know if my ryokan will have one. It is too far to come back to here to use this one.

Off to Nagasaki

Tuesday, May 13, 2006--Okinawa to Nagasaki

I am trying to make a reservation for next weekend. I am a bit worried about it, since I will be in a tourist town. Hope it works out.

I had much of today to spend here, since my flight is not until 15:45. I went to the market and bought me a bento box--a Japanese meal in a to-go box. Then I walked to the airport. It only took about an hour, and I had nothing better to do. I wanted the exercise.

I wanted to get cash at the airport ATM, but it only gives a limit of $100. That isn't much. I will now have to try to get more in Nagasaki.

They had a bad earthquate in southern China where I will have my last stop. It didn't do much damage to the city where I will be, but some of the villages northwest of there where I planned to visit may not be available now.

Japan is so far behind the rest of SE Asia in terms of ease of travel. So few people speak English, and the ATM problem also causes trouble. In general, I am doing fine, but most people would be frustrated, I think. It helps that I am a good map reader and a good reasoner.

It was cool when I arrived in Nagasaki. That was a surprise. Maybe it is a bit like San Francisco, since it is on the water with mountains around it. I could use a pullover in the evenings.

I am staying at the nicest place where I have been so far. Every other place I called was fully booked 2 1/2 weeks ago. So I took this place knowing nothing about it. It is 7 1/2 tatami mats big, has a nice bathroom, a nice toilet room with an automated toilet that rises and blows dry, a flat-panel TV (but still only local channels), telephone, rice panel doors, etc. Unfortunately, it does not have a computer for guests. The owner recommends going to Kinkos which charges $6 per hour!!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008--Nagasaki

I left early for Peace Park and the Epicenter Park where the atomic bomb burst in 1945. The park has a nice fountain and statues that have been donated from around the world. It was interesting to notice that the biggest and first statues constructed came from communist countries. I think it must have been an effort to convince people that communists were sympathic and that communism was the way for all governments to go.

The whole area is new, of course. It seemed strange being there and knowing that the bomb had gone off there. I felt a bit guilty about it, too, since I am an American. There is a very nice museum with some of the ruins on display along with photos and videos. That was all sad to see, but the museum had a funny sign over its elevator: Reserved for those who are unrailed."

From there, I took the tram to Glover Gardens. It's a hillside that has the home of one of the western settlers to Nagasaki. But over the years, the city has bought other western-style homes of settlers and moved them to the same hill creating a historical park somewhat like Heritage Park in Corpus Christi. There is one entrance fee, and all the gardens and homes are open for viewing.

Nagasaki is the setting for Madame Butterfly, and the city is proud of it. There were exhibits in one of the homes at Glover Gardens about the opera and about a local diva who became famous singing the role all over the world.

Thursday, May 15, 2008--Nagasaki to Kumamoto

I took an early train to get to Kumamoto by noon. I didn't have a reservation, but I managed to get one here. It's the worst of the places I have stayed so far, but it is acceptable, especially since I am here for only one night.

After checking in, I headed to the castle area. I came here mainly because it has one of the best castles, and nearby is the private home of one of the samarai warriors. On the way to trying to find the home, I asked for directions. A wonderful old man volunteered to help me. He even walked me there. On the way, he told that he has visited the U.S. on a 12-day bus tour that went from New York to Los Angeles. He eventually told me he is 91. And he was walking almost as fast as I normally do!!

The home of the samarai was fantastic--one of the best sights I have seen here. Then the castle was the best castle I have seen. It has one tall turret that is original, and there is a tea ceremony building that is original. Those buildings have wood that is over 500 years old in them. The central tower, like those of the other castles I have seen is rebuilt out of concrete and looks only as it did when seeing it from the outside. I am glad I came here, though, since I feel I have not REALLY visited an old castle in Japan. But the home. Google to see and read about it: Kyu-Hosokawa Gyobutei.

Just read that I do NOT have a reservation for tomorrow and Saturday night. Now I must try to resolve that problem!!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Last Day in Okinawa

Monday, May 12, 2008--Naha, Okinawa

I just discovered today that I have been putting the wrong dates on my posts. The flight over passed the International Date Line. When I got up the next day to write in my journal, I accidentally put the 4th, the day after I left San Antonio, instead of the 5th to account for the extra day that crossing the line involves. Anyway, I have done everything on schedule including catching my flight to here. It was when I was checking the time on my ticket for my flight tomorrow that I realized something was wrong.

I really didn`t need today in Okinawa. I could have left. There wasn`t much to consider doing. Local transport across the island is very expensive. I could have gone up northward, but for that cost of the transport, all I would have seen is "Little America" around the American bases (which is what many Japanese come here to see! Anyway, I walked and explored. I first went to an area of town that is known for families that have made pottery for hundreds of years. There were some very nice pieces. I was impressed. From there, I walked back to the beach for a while. There were more people than on Sunday. I walked northward along the waterfront past the ferry landing. Then I cut through the modern shopping district of Naja. At its end is a very fancy shopping mall that has only boutiques by the top names in retail. It is much like a fortress (maybe to keep shoplifters from getting out?). A tour bus was there, so it is on the tourist route. Anyway, how can a town the size of Corpus Christi sustain such an upscale mall with ONLY the most expensive retail shops? Even if it is the provincial capital for a larger population and a tourist center, it must be difficult for that mall to stay in business. Every bit of space was rented, though.

A thyphoon has been passing along the edge of Japan heading north-northeastward. We got blustery winds from it over the weekend, but only a few night time showers. Today, the island where Tokyo is was getting some heavy rain along the coast. I`m glad it didn`t hit us directly while I am here.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Afternoon on the Waterfront

Sunday, May 10, 2008--Naha, Okinawa

It feels like more than a week since I departed Texas. I have done so much. Plus, it seems that there is so much more time available when there is no way to have English interaction.

I decided to make my outing today to the parks and the beach. They are in the opposite direction of where I have explored so far here. It was quiet when I went out about noon walking eastward. I planned my route to take me by one of the larger parks in town and then to bring me back by another.

The first park was full of people. There were two youth teams starting a baseball game. It was interesting to watch the procedure. Each team stood in a line along their sideline. Then at a signal, they rushed to form single lines in front of each other from the batter`s box to the pitcher`s mound. They bowed together--each team toward the opposite. Something was said (the rules of good behavior?), then they bowed to each other again and broke formation and ran to their positions to start the game. Some of the boys on the sidelines saw me and said, "Herro!" in their best Japanese-English where the pronunciation of the letter "l" is almost impossible.

When I reached the waterfront, I walked along it toward the in-town beach. I passed an interesting park area that has obviously been claimed as a home by some homeless men including one who has an urge to be a folk artist. He had made various constructions around the area out of articles he had pulled from trash. It was interesting much in the way the Orange House in Houston is.

There were only a few people at the beach. It is small, but has the most beautiful water--a Caribbean-type blue-green. Most of the ones in the water were young boys. Some young men were sunbathing on the edge. A couple of families were there, including one tourist family who arrived with their boy still in diapers. I remained and watched for about an hour.

Another large park proved not to be as interesting as the first. So I continued to town where the main street was blocked off for 6 hours in the afternoon. It was alive with people enjoying a festival-type atmosphere. Children were doing chalk painting on the pavement. Jugglers and unibike riders were performing. A group of students here as tourists had brought horse-dragon-type uniforms and were entertaining everyone.

I went for a late luncheon-early dinner at a restaurant my guidebook had recommended. I had the "hot-hot" which was a hot curry filled with several small pieces of pork and two portions of poached egg whites. It came with a tiny (half-dollar sized) salad, a plate of yellow rice, and another half-dollar sized dessert of sweet yogurt.

In the evening, I returned to my room to read. I am going through my books too fast. The reason is that there is nothing in English to pass my time--no TV, no newspapers, no people along the way, etc. I finished reading The Gardens of Kyoto by Kate Walbert and gave it 3 stars out of 4. Afterwards, I watched TV a little just to see what is on Japanese TV.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Shurijo Caslte

Saturday, May 9, 2008--Naha, Okinawa

It`s very humid here. But the air is cool at night. There is an a/c in my room, but it is not included in the room fee. Instead, there is a coin box. 100 yen buys 120 minutes of cooling. That`s about 50 cents per hour for the electricity. I felt I needed it yesterday afternoon when I was in the room, but the night got cool (though still humid), and I think a cool front has come through this morning which will make the whole day much more comfortable than it was yesterday.

My outing for today was to Shurijo Castle. Like most of the places I have visited this past week in Japan, it is a World Heritage Site. It`s an ancient castle on a hill above town. It was originally built in the 1400s, but has been rebuilt many times--most recently within the past few decades since its destruction during WWII.

As part of my exercise/diet/economic savings plan, I walked there. It is 3+ km (about 2 miles) from the center of town, and it`s all uphill! I left the room at 11:30 and stopped only at the nearby market where I bought a snack--a fried dough ball that tastes like a doughnut--to last me until I returned. It was a steady climb, so I could feel it in my breathing the whole way. Everyone else passed me in cars, taxis, buses, etc. But for me it was no problem making the climb. The only pain I felt wasn`t from the stress of it; it was from a sore sternum, shoulder, and back due to sleeping on such a hard bed (thin cotton mattress on hard floor).

The castle has been beautifully restored. It was the best ancient site I have seen on this trip. Inside, it was all painted in red lacquer. The throne room for the king was magnificent with red, gold, and some black. Many people were there including a few Americans. There was even a water fountain with cold water in the reception area which was very resfreshing.

I walked down the original stone pathway that was used to connect the castle with the town when it was built hundreds of years ago. It wandered among houses now, but it was quite atmospheric. Then I followed a roadway the rest of the way. I stopped at the same restaurant where I ate yesterday and had their lunch special--pork with rice noodles along with the same things from yesterday.

I got back to the room at 15:30 and sat on my balconly reading. My current book is The Gardens of Kyoto by Kate Walbert. It`s a good book, but it is also interesting because of its authenticity when referring to the way life was in the 1940s and expecially the 1950s. I also put an extra mattress under my bed to try to make it more comfortable for tonight. Then I prepared to go out again.

I made tonight`s outing one for looking for cultural differences and concentrated on doing it at a department store. I wandered the floors watching people and seeing the displays. There are many differences, but some as examples are: 1) There are no large plates for sale in the dinnerware section. Japanese do not eat large portions. (Related to this, the Japanese have not jumped on the American-led international getting-fatter bandwagon. People here are still slender in general.) 2) Fish heads are included in the packaging for fish filets and other fish parts that people buy to prepare dinner. I imagine this is because they use the head to make soup. 3) Women clean the men`s toilets without closing them. In other words, they enter the toilet and clean while they are being used. 4) Everything in the food department is packaged in small portions--8 strawberries, 50 g of cashew nuts, 10 small coin-sized thin pieces of beef, etc.

As I walked back to my room rushing due to the threat of rain, I noticed a few more American airmen around. One group was doing something I imagine the Japanese found offensive. The benches along the main street often have plastic statues which people enjoy sitting beside while having their photo taken--a Japanese sumo wrestler, Marilyn Monroe, etc. Well, the statue of Marilyn had her hand reaching up and open. One of the airmen had stepped up onto the bench in his shoes (offense #1 and was standing there with his crotch placed so that it appeared that Marilyn was reaching for it (offense #2) as his friends took his photo. I also noticed that there are quite a few restaurants offering steaks, burgers, and tacos. I am sure those are for the Americans.

Friday, May 09, 2008

Okinawa

Friday, May 8, 2008--Nagoya to Okinawa

I have slept well for the past two nights. The sinus headaches are gone. My nose is still dripping, though.

I was up at 7:00 to head to the airport. I was a bit worried about how early I should be there for a domestic flight. I shouldn`t have worried, though. There was a mix-up at the train station, though. I bought a ticket for the regular train rather than the one with reserved seats. When I expected a regular train, one with reserved seats showed up. Then someone told me it would be 35 minutes until the next regular train. I rushed upstairs to check again, and was told it was only 7 minutes until a regular train. Whew!

The regular train stopped at a lot of stations and took 50 minutes versus the fast train with reserved seats which makes the trip in 30 minutes. But when I got to the airport, there were no lines. It is a big, nice airport. And there are international flights to many places. That`s probably because of Toyota being in Nagoya. I was checked in and waiting at the gate with still 1 1/2 hours to go before departure.

I wondered what I would do to pass the time, since my books were in my checked luggage. I decided to open my camera and delete the bad pictures I had taken. When I got to the beginning, however, I discovered there were pictures before it. In fact, all 1000+ pictures I had taken on my travels last year were still on the card! I couldn`t format it, because I would lose all my new photos. I knew I would have to delete the photos one at a time. I managed to delete half of them during that 1 1/2 hours I was waiting for my flight. Will work on the others in similar situations!!

Okinawa is bright. Guess that`s because it is an island with water everywhere. It`s also humid. I had no problem getting maps and directions from the tourist office. I took a bus that dropped me off in the center of town about 2 blocks from my ryokan. I have a large tatami mat (7 mats, as rooms are measured in Japan) room with a balcony, TV, hair dryer, etc. Unfortunately, TV, as everywhere I have stayed, has been only local channels.

Japan is not as connected to the outside world as elsewhere. Not only does TV not carry international stations in the hotels where I am staying, but ATM machines are not connected to the international system except at very selected spots. Here in Okinawa, only the airport and the main post office have machines where one can use international cards. It was similar in Nagoya.

I ate the set lunch at a nearby restaurant. It was a spring roll as an appetizer, fried rice with chicken, soup, a dessert made with whole red beans (popular as a dessert in Asia), and iced green tea. It was a bargain for Japan at $6.55 U.S.

After resting for a couple of hours in the room, I went back out in the evening and wandered the main shopping street. I saw a few American airmen. Supposedly, the bases still have restricted leave due to bad relations after an airman raped a local girl a few weeks ago. The ones I saw looked like they could easily cause trouble by being too American rather than considering local tastes and feelings. They were a bit loud, a bit fast, etc.

I will make the most of being here in Okinawa, but I realize I made a mistake in planning my trip. Originally, I was going to be here about 3 days and then go down to Ishigaki for another 3 days. When I booked my ticket, however, I learned that it would give me too many stops in Japan (limit of 4). I just canceled the trip down to Ishigaki. I should have canceled Okinawa. Ishigaki would have been more exotic and interesting.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

Leaving for Okinawa

Thursday, May 7, 2008--Nara to Nagoya

I took the train to Nagoya after updating the blog this morning. I had been on 2/3 of the route 3 times before, and on the last third once before. Since it was a 2 1/2 hour trip, I just read to pass the time.

When I arrived at my hotel, I had made my reservation for a different day. In my rush to try to get reservations, I had made it for the last day before LEAVING Okinawa instead of the last day before GOING TO Okinawa. Fortunately, they had a room for me for tonight. It`s one of the cheaper hotels in town due to the fact it is one of the few that has single rooms. The room is small, but it isn`t one of the capsule hotels that Japan is known for. Compared to one of those, this is luxurious (although just about as cheap as a capsule room). This one is about twice the size of a single bed in width, and the bathroom takes up a corner from that. It is about 1 1/4 times as long as a single bed. But it has a TV, a mini-fridge, a bath, etc. It is well planned. When I put my suitcase out, however, it blocks either the exit door or the bathroom door due to the limited floor space not occupied by the bed or the bath.

I was starving after checking into the hotel, and it was already 12:30. I headed to a restaurant recommended by my guidebook. I should have known better. In general, I have found it is easier just to wander and find a place than it is to chase down the places listed in guidebooks. Sure enough, it didn`t exist when I got there. A new building was being constructed where it was supposed to be. Yet my guidebook was only published last year. Anyway, I was so hungry and had no idea where to go. I started looking for side streets that have small eateries. When I came to the end of one of those, at the corner of that street and a major street were two fast-food places. One had a crowd. And the menu on the window was in English in small letters. I went inside and, not knowing the procedure, sat and waited. When the waiter came to me, I ordered the curry with rice in the large size. It was so tasty compared to what I have eaten for the last two days--a big plate with vegetable curry and rice, and a bowl of soup with onions and green leaves on the side. It also came with cold water which was refilled often. As I ate it, I watched others and learned what I should have done when I entered. There are vending machines near both doors. The correct procedure is to pay the machine and push a button for what you want to order. It gives a chit which is then handed to the waiter. Obviously, they are used to doing it with foreigners as they did with me. Another reason they obviously serve foreigners regularly is that they gave me a big spoon to eat mine with rather than expecting me to eat that runny mixture with chopsticks like everyone else.

I wandered the city some after that. Nagoya is huge and very modern. It`s the headquarters for Toyota. In size, it reminds me a bit of Chicago, since the downtown area is so big with specialized sections--a long street for shopping, another area for business headquarters and train stations, etc. I was tired, though, and decided to head back to my room at 15:00.

In my room, I relaxed and finished reading The Unlikely Spy by Daniel Silva. It was given to me by my friend Jean recently. I enjoyed it, although I don`t normally read mysteries. I gave it 2 1/2 stars out of 4. I will take it to Okinawa tomorrow and see if I can trade it for another book with someone where I will be staying there.

It`s now evening. I will go out for a walk to see the city with its lights. I won`t stay long, though. My flight tomorrow is at 10:30, so I will have to leave the hotel around 7:30 to get the train to the airport.

This part of the trip has become very comfortable. I hope it remains so in the other parts of Japan where I am going. I like it when the systems are easy to figure out on my own.

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

A Trip to Ise

Wednesday, May 6, 2008--Ise

Today I went to Ise. It was a bit of a disappointment. I went there because it is a sort of Japanese Mecca. There are two old shrines there that all Japanese are supposed to visit once in their lives. The guidebook made it sound interesting, and there were even tours of Americans and Europeans there. But the temples were open only at the entrance. I saw only two Japanese women get entrance beyond to see inside the buildings. All the rest of us stood out front and peeked at the rooflines. Even worse, it took 2 1/2 hours each way by train to go there and return.

There was one good aspect of the trip, however. Near one of the temples is a recreation of an old Edo-period town. It functions as a place for tourists to eat, buy souvenirs, etc. And it is located on the exact spot where an Edo-period town actually existed. It was fun seeing it.

As has happened before in Japan, I was fooled by a snack that I bought. It looked like a skewer with pieces of meat on it sprinkled with spices and herbs. I bought it. But the inside was a thick fig mixture. It was rolled in a thin dough which cracked and browned on the grill giving the look of meat. And it was covered with hot spices. Strange, but I could at least eat it without thinking it was horrible.

I am dieting. Combined with increased walking, I want to lose at least 25-30 lbs. (10-12 kg) Trying to stay on 1000 calories a day or less is part of it in addition to the walking. That should allow me to lose 1/2-2/3 lb per day. I hope I can already tell the difference by the time I leave Japan. The high food prices here make it easier to stay on the diet!!

Thursday, May 7, 2008--Nara to Nagoya

I am off to Nagoya today. I will take the train--about a 3 hour trip. I have a reservation for one night at a hotel there. The main reason for going is that I fly out of the airport there tomorrow morning or Okinawa, so I must be closer to the airport. But I will spend this afternoon exploring the city.

Do not know if a computer will be handy anywhere. I have not been seeing cyber cafes here. Japan fits my definition of the availability of cyber cafes--the richer the country, the fewer cyber cafes due to the fact that people can afford to have their own computers at home with Internet connections. Will hope that the hotel has a free terminal as I have had here.

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

A Day in Osaka

Tuesday, May 5, 2008--Osaka

My sinuses continue to bother me. I am convinced that it is sinus trouble because of the itchy eyes and the pressure across my brow. All I can do is hope that things will get better, I guess. Wish I had my Claritin with me!

Originally, I had planned to spend a couple of days here in Nara, then go up to Takayama, a castle town in the mountains where Nurse Grethe visited last year. But as I read my guidebooks before leaving, I realized I needed an extra day for that. One of the problems of having to plan the itinerary in advance is that it involves lots of guessing of how many days will be appropriate. Sometimes I plan too many days for a place. At other times, I plan too few. Therefore, instead of taking the trip to Takayama, I bought a regional pass for the railroad here around Nara and am staying here for 4 nights.

Today, I went into Osaka for the day. I had passed through there on my way to Kyoto on my previous visit to Japan. But I had not stopped there. I took the train into town in the morning and spent the day exploring it.

First, I went to Osaka Castle--the most visited tourist site in all of Japan. It is really a big park in the center of town that used to be a fortress. One large tower is still there, but it is rebuilt in the design it has always been and is now a museum. I has wonderful views of the city, though.

My main goal for the day was to go to the aquarium--the best in Japan. It was fantastic. It is 7 stories tall and one enters at the top and works his way down through it. The tanks are tall. At the top, one sees what lives in the water at the surface and on the nearby surfaces outside the water. As one walks down the slanted walkway, one goes deeper and deeper and sees what lives at each area. There are several tanks representing places such as the Pacific, Panama Straigts, Great Barrier Reef, Monterry coast, etc. The design is unique in that a person can go into offside areas and sit beyond the movement of people to watch into the tanks. It was a nice, but expensive, visit ($20 U.S).

Before leaving town, I explored two areas--Umeda with the tall skyscrapers and Tennoji, an old quarter. When I got back to Nara, I had been gone for 8 hours and was tired.

Monday, May 05, 2008

\wandering around Nara

Monday, May 4, 2008、Nara

I am typing on a Japanese keyboard. It is not easy. a Japanese keyboard. It is not easy. The shift key is over further than I am used to. Also, if I hit a the shift key right after the space key, it repeats the last 4-5 words I have typed.

I do not know if it is allergies or a cold I have. It was horrible during the night with a pressure headache. But I feel that it is like a cold, too. Whatever the problem, I wish I did not have it along with the jet lag I am presently suffering.

I spent about 5 hours out exploring the city today. I went to the temples, saw a 5-story pagoda, walked through gardens, explored a park, etc. There are many blooming plants--wisteria, dogwood, azaleas, etc. (Could they be causing the allergies?) My nearby neighborhood is also popular with tourists because of the quaint old houses and the small shops with specialty items. Nara is a nice place as I had expected.

I was exhausted after it all. I was tired from walking, but most of my problems related to the nasal difficulties and to the jet lag. When I returned to the room, I just wanted to go to bed. But I knew that I should stay awake. I read literature, planned things for the next day or two, etc., until 1 the next day or two, etc., until 18:00 when I went to the bath to soak. Later in the evening, I started reading a spy novel from WWII that my friend Jean had given me.

I lost my chapstick today. That sounds like a little thing, but I enjoy it so much. And it was a new tube. Do not know what they will have as a replacement here.

Sunday, May 04, 2008

I am in Japan!

Monday, May 5, Nara, Japan

All my flights and trains were ontime. I arrived in Nara at 19:45 last night and was going to bed at my ryokan (Japanese guest house) at 20: at my ryokan (Japanese guest house) at 20:45--26 my ryokan (Japanese guest house) at 20:45--26 hours and15 minutes after gettting up in San Antonio.

The flight from San Antonio to San Francisco was only about 3/4 full, and I had no one beside me. In the top classes on the international flight, we were only about 10 the international flight, we were only about 10% full. Thank goodness I did not have to fly 10% full. Thank goodness I did not have to fly economy where it was 95% full.

I took 4 trains after arriving in Japan. All were very efficient and on time. I had reserved seats on each, so I was comfortable. reserved seats on each, so I was comfortable. I had to worry about where to transfer, so I was a little nervous. about where to transfer, so I was a little nervous. I can tell, to transfer, so I was a little nervous. I can tell, because my fingernails were a little uneven this morning. But it ended up being simple with the transfers being at each stop.

Nagoya was interesting to see. They were having waterfront boat races at a very nice, big stadium built for the purpose. The train station was so busy with people. But there were several people volunteering to help me every time I needed it.

The ryokan is nicer than the guidebook described. It has wonderful atmosphere and used to be a geisha house long ago. It is very clean (as is every place I have ever stayed in Japan. My room has a/c, tv, etc. The walls are wood-framed with paper. There are facilities for making tea, and a small sitting area facilities for making tea, and a small sitting area for having it. Otherwise, everything is on the tatami-matted floor. The place has a central men`s shower and bath. It is like a Japanese bath house with a communal tub filled with hot water for soaking and relaxing after having showered well before entering. As with all Japanese places, there is a nice cotton robe, well ironed, to wear from the room to the bath house. Toilets are also down the hallway, but there are several of them.

I will explore Nara today. I will stay here 3 more nights, but I have a train pass and will explore the area each day. The ryokan has 30 minutes of free Internet per day, so I will probably post daily while I am here.