Mullahs Decide Ramadan Is Not Over Yet!

Thursday, Sept. 17, 2009--Fes (Continued)

Today is a special Ramadan day for children--the 27th day of Ramadan. They are in fancy dress all over the city. I was told that it is a way for a family to thank Allah for their good fortune. It's the children who are the center of the activity, because they will be a part of bringing more good fortune in the future. The girls have their hands and sometimes their arms painted in henna. They were long, fancy dresses. They get adult-like hairstyles at the beauty shops and have makeup on their faces. The latter is a bit bothering; it reminds me of Jon Benet Ramsey. The boys were fancy caftans and either golden turbans or red felt fez hats.

The excitement for the coming end to Ramadan s building. More food items are showing up at the markets. People are rushing more. Men run down the streets clapping and jumping to slap at the awnings. The excitement reminds me of the last 2-3 days before Christmas in the West.

I bought soup again tonight. I also convinced the South African lady at the pension to try it, too. She liked it.

She, the French lady, the French lady's grandfather, and I went out in the evening to experience the excitement. We stopped at a cafe for a drink. Then we continued up and down the streets and to a street fair that was just outside the walls of the old city. Local people were out having fun--happy and friendly.

Friday, Sept. 18, 2009--Meknes

After breakfast, I went with the French lady and her grandfather to Meknes via train. They were going there to stay a couple of days. I decided to try again for an outing for the day. We made the 10:50 train this time, so that gave me about 4 hours there. The French people were going to hire a guide, so I went on my own after getting there. They needed a French-speaking guide for the grandfather, and I knew that a guide would go slowly meaning that I would see little during my brief time.

Meknes is another of the old imperial capitals of Morocco (along with Rabat, Fes, and Marrakesh). I got a map at the tourist office and headed for the medina, the old walled city. It is nice, but it is nothing compared to Fes. I wandered the streets some seeing what could be seen. Most of the shops are for local people, so it was nice not to be bothered too much by the shopkeepers. Also, it was nice to see the local people out doing their shopping as they have done for centuries.

People here in Meknes are interesting. They see to be less sophisticated than those in Fes. And there is more variety in dress. Of couse, it all can be seen in Fes, too, but there it is "watered down" by the fact that there are more modern people mixed with the crowds. I saw men wearing colorful clothes and similarly colorful pointed hats that must be desert costumes. Some men wear kaftans with pointed hoods. Others wear the white cotton shirt-like "dresses" that like men in Egypt wear. Women also vary. There are the modern westernized women who wear boots, jeans, makeup, and nice hair styles. But they tend to be the younger and richer women. Most women wear either a headscarf with a coat-like dress, a long dark dress with a head covering and a veil across the face, or burka-like costumes that completely keep them out of view of others.

As my time to explore came to an end, I headed back toward the station. I had noticed that McDonalds was open as I passed it before. I was so hungry that I decided to go there. It has walls to hide the cars at the drive-up window and the diners in the building. They were probably built purposely for Ramadan since it lasts for a whole month. I bought a chicken sandwich meal with drink and fries and gulped it down! It was families who were there otherwise. Children are not expected to fast during Ramadan, so they were there to treat their kids to food. Only one other adult was eating while I was there.

I have not felt in any danger here in Morocco. People are friendly and nice in general. Of course, the shopkeepers and the guides want to get everyone's money and are a bother. But it seems to be a safe country for traveling. It is definitely an interesting one with an exotic feel everywhere!

One problem I have noticed several times is that people here often have bad breath. I think it must be from poor teeth. It doesn't seem to be the smell of any special diet.

Many people are traveliing today. I guess they are already heading home for the holidays which will come at the end of Ramadan. I am glad I already have my ticket with a 1st class seat reservation to go to Marrakesh tomorrow. The train will probably be crowded.

I bought dates, olives, and a chicken pastry to take with me on the train tomorrow. It will be a 7-hour trip, and I will have to leave before breakfast is served at my pension.

Fouad, the owner of the pension did me a favor tonight. He called a place he knows in Marrakesh and made me a reservation. It is at another riad similar to here--an old house that has been turned into a guest house--and it will include breakfast. I had written about 5 places seeking a reservation without getting a response. I think that many places probably will be closing for the holidays, so it will be a relief to arrive and not have to find a room on my own, especially since the touts make it so difficult to look by oneself.

It's my last night in Fes. It's been good to be here for so long. I was recognized today by a man who said, "Hello, you have been here all week!" I guess he had seen me earlier in the streets.

I decided to go to a restaurant for my last meal here. I ordered Tajine Kefta, a Moroccan stew with a tomato sauce, fried egg, and spicy meatballs. It came with lots of bread for soaking up the sauce and an extra bowl of sauce on the side to add as I continued eating. It was spicy and delicious.

Being here in Fes has reminded me daily of the stories of Paul Bowles, especially The Sheltering Sky. He lived in Tunesia, but my guess is that the countries are very similar. I can see how he was charmed by the people and the exotic aspect of life here, especially since he was in North Africa long before there were enough tourists for the touts to be so bad.

I finished reading Pompeii by Robert Harris today. It was an intereting tale even it it was possible to predict what would happen to the major characters (as well as what would happen to the city). I wavered between giving it it 2 1/2 stars or 3 stars out of 4. I guess it deserves 2 3/4 stars!

Saturday, Sept. 19, 2009--Fes to Marrakesh

I knew it was uphill to get out of the medina, but I had not noticed how steep it was until I started walking it with my luggage this morning. Not only is it steep, though; it is also a LONG climb. I managed it without any trouble other than the extra effort required. I got to the train station in 45 minutes. That's 15 minutes less than usual, but that was because it was too early for anyone to crowd the small strees or for traffic to slow me down at intersections.

I had to miss breakfast. I was sorry for that, for the breakfasts have been good and have made it possible to get through the day without eating in front of people who are observing the fast for Ramadan. The guesthouse, however, never serves breakfast before about 9:45-10:15. That was helpful when the meal had to last me, but it would have been nice to have it early today.

Today is supposed to be the last day of Ramadan. Unfortunately, no one is certain. The mullahs will meet tonight to look at the moon to see if it is in the faze necesary for Ramadan to be over or not. If not, there will be another day of fasting. If it is, the holidays will begin tomorrow and food can be bought/sold and eaten anytime.

The train platform is full. Many people are traveling. Today is like Christmas Eve at home. Everyone wants to be with their families tonight in case the fast ends and the feasting begins. I spoke with a Japanese man on the platform while waiting for the train to arrive. We talked about his travels and about my trips to Japan. He was a handsome young man except for one thing--his teeth were crooked, crowded, and brown. He really should get them repaired, because they draw one's attention from how attractive he is otherwise.

Northern Morocco where I have been is beautiful wth rolling hills that are planted, have olive trees or fruit orchards, have vinyards, etc. The only problem is the trash. Like the Japanese man's teeth, it detracts from the beauty of the place when it can be seen. People dump trash in many areas and it just stays there forever.

I took my food bag to the end of the car so I could eat without being observed. I had a pastry that was filled with something that reminded me of Rice-a-Roni with chicken. The WHOLE chicken must have been used, because a complete heart was inside the pastry at one point. I also had some cookies I had bought two days ago.

We arrived in Marrakesh at 16:30. I immediately bought a ticket to get me to the airport on Wednesday. The crowds on the train scared me today. People were standing everywhere. Fortunately, I could still get an assigned first class seat for the train that will get me to the airport on time.

Then I ran into a mess. I was told that pay phones were outside the terminal. I was supposed to call the riad and then take a taxi to the medina while the manager walked to meet me at a cafe to escort me through the maze of streets. A security officer offered me his phone when I said I needed a pay phone. While he dialed, a man from another riad and a taxi driver came up bothering me. I got the old story that I shoud come to that riad; that my paper was a mistake. Anyway, the security officer could not speak English, so I did not know if he was able to get the riad or not or what was said if he did. The other two men would not leave me alone. I just walked away frustrated and looking for a pay phone.

I went into a phone calling business and the man said it would cost 5 dirhams (about 65 cents) to call. I knew that was wrong. It had cost only 1 dirham to call in Fes. I left there even more frustrated and kept walking. Fortunately, I had a crude map which I had been given at the tourist office yesterday. Before I knew it, I was already 1/2 of the way to the medina and 1/3 of the way to where I needed to be in the medina. I kept going. Then I was at the walls of the medina. I found another call center and was able to make my call for half of what the other man had said. I made arrangements with the manager and kept walking to the giant square where he would meet me in front of the Cafe de France. I continued to ask directions along the way and had no problems.

Marrakesh is known for its big square--Jamaa el Fna. It is filled with snake charmers, magicians, other kinds of entertainers, orange juice sales carts, etc. It took a while, but I finally found the Cafe de France and was approached by Mehjoub, the manager of my riad--Inbiyawen. He guided me there.

I am staying at Riad Inbiawne. The riad is better in some respects and not as nice in others when compared to the one in Fes. It is an old home that has been converted into a riad, whereas the one in Fes was built recently inside an old building. This one has been modernized while keeping the old tiles and features of the original home which is nice. The quality of the construction is better, but the general look is not quite as fancy. This one is cleaner and lighter. But it is noisier.

I went back to the main square for a quick dinner. At night, restaurants set up stalls with long tables and benches for eating. Unforutnately, they offer meals at a price which Europeans think is reasonable but which are really outrageous for Morocco. Intead of eating there, I found a sandwich stall and ate an egg and cheese sandwich in local bread. I also bought two glasses of orange juice (at only 40 cents per glass).

Sunday, Sept. 20, 2009--Marrakesh

I am the only guest at Riad Inbiawne where I am staying. A French family had reserved 3 of the 5 rooms in the riad, but they canceled at the last minute due to an emergency and will not arrive before next weekend now. There may be other guests coming in a day or two. Some who were here went trekking in the mountains and will probably return before I leave.

Well, it is another day of fasting for the Moroccans. The mullahs got together last night and studied the moon. They decided that it had not reached the faze that signals the end of Ramadan. So everyone here is disappointed. They have one more day of fasting and planning before the holidays will begin. For me, however, it has its advantages. Today is a normal day instead of a holiday. Therefore, I was able to come to this cyber cafe. It also means that I can see and explore Marrakesh in its normal state before the 3-day holidays begin. Already today I have been wandering in the souk and the medina.

Fes is nicer than Marrakesh in many respects. It is more quiet and it seems older with its narrower lanes. It is easier to feel like one is lost in time in Fez. Unfortunately, Marrakesh allows motorcycles into its medina and often even cars. The young men can be very reckless with their driving. They are "studs" driving like maniacs. I hope I can stand being here for 3 days, since I hate such attitudes.

Note: This has been a bad keyboard with keys that stick. If there seem to be missing letters anywhere, it is because I didn't catch them when I hit the key and nothing happened.