Goodbye Morocco; Hello Barcelona!

Tuesday, Sept. 22, 2009--Marrakech (Continued)

There are too many flies here in Marrakech. There weren´t so many in Fes, although they have them, too. I often see pastries or other food items I would like to try, but too often they are in the open rather than covered. I have seen pastries with 5-7 flies on each item!! And those flies are also landing on all the trash and excrement in the street before landing on the food.

I went to a restaurant on the big square that was recommended by Mehjoub, the manager of the riad. It proved to be the best place I have eaten in Morocco. I started with a salad of chopped tomatoes and red onions. It came with a piece of Moroccan flat bread warm and just out of the oven. It tasted and smelled so good. then I tried the chicken tagine. In side was a whole chicken breast, and a big one, too. Also, there were sliced potatoes, olives, slices of lemon, etc., to give it flavor. It was yellow, so they probably used saffron. They also used other spices, because it was hot with spices, too. I drank a banana milkshake for my dessert. It was thick, creamy, and tasty--made with a banana that was just ripe.

Part of the evening was spent in the square watching the entertainment. Unfortunately, tonight it was not as exciting as last night. Stores have been open today, so fewer people are out this evening. Yesterday, everyone seemed to be out due to the holidays. Also, there was not as good a mix of entertainers. Too many of the groups were playing music, and there were not enough comedy groups. That meant small crowds at the music groups and too many people at the comedy groups. The groups were more aggressive tonight in seeking contributions. I like to pay for street groups that entertain me, but they were requesting money as I was just passing by or when I had first arrived and had not yet been entertained. In addition to that hassle, a few men were bothering me for money. I just left and went back to the riad for the night.

Wednesday, Sept. 23, 2009--Marrakech to Barcelona

I awoke with a stuffy nose. I hope it´s just allergies and not the cold that the manager of the riad has had for the past few days. I´ve tried to avoid getting it by washing my hands often, especially after we have shook hands or I have handled something he has given me. But I could have gotten the germs from eating the bread he had held and sliced for my breakfast.

I walked to the station. I was up earlier than planned and had two hours to get there, so it would have been silly to take a taxi. I still arrived at the station with over an hour to wait for the train. I went into a store there and bought some Hobnobs (oat cookies) with the money I would have spent on a taxi.

My trains ran on time, and I got to the airport when no one was in line at the check-in counter for my flight. The airport had long, slow lines for passport control. It seemed to be mostly the Moroccans they were checking thoroughly. I don´t understand why. Since they are leaving, it should not be a problem. I don´t like the fact that people belong to countries like property. I can accept that another country might reject a person, but I feel uncomfortable thinking of myself being under the control of the U.S. as far as where I can go and where I cannot.

My flights were uneventful. I read much of the time. I was happy to get the drinks and sandwiches they served, since there really wasn´t time or a place to eat between flights.

It was 22:50 when we arrived in Barcelona. That was too late for me to hope to catch the train. The last train to town would be at 23:30, and it would leave from the other terminal which was a 15-minute bus ride away. My luggage didn´t arrive until 23:15, so I went outside and found the stop for the night bus. It takes longer, but it is the same price as the train. The bus came at 23:30, and I was in the center of town at 00:20. There were crowds of people everywhere because of Merce, the music festival which is the largest festival that Barcelona has all year. I walked through the crowds hearing music from various stages along the way. I arrived at my pension at 00:45, tired and read for bed!

The lock on the main compartment of my suitcase was missing and the bag was slightly unzipped when I went to unlock it to get my toiletries. I HATE security doing that. And it was the kind of lock that they are supposed to be able to open and then put back in place. This is the second time such a lock has been opened and not put back when I have traveled.

As I went to bed, I was glad to have my earplugs. It was obvious that the noise from the festival would continue for many hours. But the earplugs silenced it for me, and I slept well.

Thursday, Sept. 24, 2009--Barcelona

So far, I hven´t found anything missing. I checked the most important things--my memory card with 800 photos on it, my Swiss army knife, my alarm clock, a gift I am carrying home, etc. They are all still there. Still, I am upset it was opened and that the lock is lost. My bags never raise suspicion when I stand by security and wait for them to be checked at airports that check them before a person goes past security.

Wow! Tourism is booming in Barcelona. Also, it´s the Merce Festival. There are crowds everywhere. And it is a holiday here. Stores, other than restaurants and a few souvenir shops, are closed today. Yesterday was the first day of the festival, and I guess that today is a holiday due to everyone staying up late and enjoying it. The stores should be open tomorrow with things more like normal.

Much of the tourism in Barcelona is based on architecture (which I define as including sculptures and fountains as well as buildings). Not too many cities realize the draw that nice buildings have on tourists. They should come here and see the 30 huge tourist buses outside the Temple ode Segrada Familia at any given time day and evening!! And all the people on those buses are going to other tourist sites on their tour, too. Best of all, they are not delegates at a conference where they are in meetings much of their time with limitations on when they can be out in town spending their money. These are tourists who have come to see the buildings and are spending day and night! Only a few cities in the U.S. have recognized the value of good architecture. New York and Chicago are obvious ones who have done it forever. Another is Columbus, Indiana, which has gradually built a big tourism trade on having buildings designed by name architects. Other cities have happened upon it almost by accident--New Orleans with its French Quarter and Garden District, San Francisco with its being rebuilt after the earthquake in an appealing style that was used in abundance due to so much of the city being destroyed. Los Angeles seems to be discovering it with the reactions to the Getty Museum, the Disney Studio Gates, and the Disney Theater. Miami Beach discovered it by accident almost too late. Kansas City tries to promote architectural tourism with its fountains, and Richmond tries, too, with its statues, but neither has been very successful.

I definitely have a cold. My throat is raw, and I feel a bit tired. Still, I got out to explore parts of the city. Crowds are everywhere, but I wandered the Rambla, the long walkway through town, walked down the narrow streets of the Gothic Quarter which is where my pension is located, etc. I found some of the special architectural sights just through this wandering. Tomorrow, I will head out with a checklist of sites that I want to see.

There are parades as a part of the festival. They seem almost spontaneous in that they wander up and down streets and there is no seating for people to wait and watch. Instead, when one hears the noise, he heads toward it to enjoy the excitement. There are giant figures in the shapes of people made from paper machè. Persons standing inside the bases of the figures walk the streets twisting and turning. In between are bands consisting of drummer and oboe players. With the narrow streets, the sound is LOUD. Everyone reacts positively and enjoys it all.

In the evening, I went to the large stage to listen to some of the music. A singer from England was singing. I don´t know his name. He looked like a young, chubby George Michaels. The music was nice, and the crowd was enjoying it. I broke away after midnight and returned to my room.

Friday, Sept. 25, 2009--Barcelona

I had drainage into my throat most of the night. Therefore, it is still raw and feels a bit feverish. But I am pushing myself to get out and see the city.

When I try to think of cities that can compare to Barcelona, the one that comes closest is Paris. They look nothing alike, but they are both large, have many impressive buildings, have lots of squares and hidden spaces where people enjoy congregating, etc. I wish I felt better while exploring it, for it is a wonderful city.

My outing today was to see various buildings, many, but not all, of them designed by Gaudi. I saw the Gherkin office building, the Temple de Segrada Familia, Casa Viceris, La Pedrara, Casa Amatller, etc. All were fascinating to see. At each, there were crowds of people with their cameras in the air taking photos. As I wrote yesterday, interesting architecture pays off in increased tourism when there is an accumulation of enough interesting buildings as they have here.