Ending My Days in Morocco

Sunday, Sept. 20, 2009--Marrakesh (Continued)

The manager of the riad gave me a key to the front door so I can come and go. It's so nice to be able to do what I want when I want. I had to ring the bell everytime I returned to the riad in Fes.

This being the end of Ramadan, the town was alive with people going out tonight. I stopped at a small restaurant for dinner and tried the tajine again. This time it was different--not better or worse, but different. It was thicker with chunks of tomato instead of tomato sauce.

Monday, Sept. 21, 2009--Marrakech

There was no loud calling at 4:45 this morning from the mosque behind the riad. Until now, someone has screeched loudly pronouncing the beginning of the daily fast for Ramadan. Muslims cannot eat, drink or smoke (among other things) between 4:45 and about 18:30 each day of Ramadan. With Ramadan over, there was no need to remind people to fast. As I have said before, I wonder about a religion that feels so insecure about whether its believers will do what they should do that it has to use loud speakers to remind them continuously. Since most people here are Muslims and have lived with it all their lives, they don't even question it. I would consider it an insult. And the call for the fast at 4:45 would be an unwelcome intrusion into my sleep. Surely a good believer knows when he awakens that it is too late to eat or drink or smoke until after sunset!

Still, I didn't sleep well. I ate some chocolate before going to bed, and I think that the caffeine in it was partially the cause of my restlessness. But probably the fact that I am returning home a week from today was a factor, too. I always start worrying about what must be done when I am back. I awoke at 6:30 this morning thinking about things I need to do. Although traveling is stressful, I think I am more relaxed with fewer worries when I travel than I am when I am at home with a long list of things I know I need to do.

Mehjoub, the manager of the riad, served some special treats with breakfast to celebrate the end of the fast. There was one that consisted of whole almonds stuck together by a honey like mixture. Theer was another that had more whole almonds and pieces of chopped, candied fruits resting on a piece of pastry. And there was a third which was a pastry filled with chopped nuts. All were delicious.

With Ramadan over, everyone was out having a great time today. The majority of the shops were closed. People were outside in their best clothing visiting with neighbors and wandering around town. I'm sure that all were happy that the fasting has ended. Among the few shops that were open were bakeries, cafes, restaurants, etc. The yo-yo seems to have been a popular gift for boys for the end of Ramadan. Many boys were playing with them in the streets as I wandered around town. One even got my attention so he could show me as he tried to roll it out and in again.

After resting at the riad and reading for part of the day, I went out again in the late afternoon. I went to the main square, a huge open space, and spent two hours watching the entertainment. There musicians, magicians, snake charmers, dancers, acrobats, boxers, etc. I just wandered from group to group watching when I could get close enough to see. All had at rings of at least three layers of people watching.

It became more dangerous as the square became dark. A man tried to pick my pocket, but I was being safe and was aware of it immediately. First, I had my arm over my bag holding it against one side of me, and I had my hand resting against my money pocket on the other side of me. The man was trying to get into a pocket that had no money at all. It's where I store a plastic bag for carrying things that I buy when I am out. But to him, I guess it looked as if it were bulging with folded money. I was already aware of him because he was facing sideways rather than toward the entertainment. Then I could sense a tickle as he tried to open the velcro strips that hold the pocket shut. I started to turn away and grabbed his arm and pushed it with an obvious and strong shove and said, "Leave me alone!" Then I walked away. There are policemen, both in uniform and in plain clothes in the square, so I hope one noticed what happened. Anyway, everyone should know to be careful and watch for such incidents when standing in a group in a major square. And they should be especially careful under such circumstances after dark.

I didn't really feel hungry tonight. Therefore, I just ate some snacks as I was in town. Then after I came to my room, I finished the olives I had, ate half of my remaining dates, and finished a chocolate bar I had been eating on recently. Unfortunately, that's the end of my Marabou bars, one of the best chocolate bars in the world.

Tuesday, Sept. 22, 2009--Marrakech

Tonight is my last night in Morocco. It's been a good trip in general, and I wish I had been able to see more of the country before leaving. It's definitely the exotic country that everyone imagines it to be. It is a safer country than I expected it to be, too. Staying in riads has been nice, although they are noisy and have caused me to have to use my earplugs each night. With all rooms facing a central atrium, any noise such as a door opening, a lock being turned, someone talking, the TV being on, etc., just funnels through the building and can be heard in all rooms. Also, being in Morocco has been more expensive than I expected. Although less expensive than the U.S., Japan, western Europe, etc., it has not been a cheap destination. Rooms have cost me 3-4 times what similar rooms would cost in Thailand or India, and meals have cost me 3-4 times what similar meals in similar places would cost in Thailand or India. In fact, I have spent as much per day being in Morocco as I had to spend to tour the Balkan countries in Europe before coming here.

Things are getting back to normal today. Shops seem to be opening even though today is also considered to be a holiday following the end of Ramadan. I will wander through the streets enjoying the atmosphere. I will go to one of the parks to read for a while. I will return to the square for some entertainment. And I will try to have a nice final meal tonight. Then I must be up early tomorrow morning to get to the train station. It will be a day of traveling--getting to the station, taking the train for about 4 hours, flying to Lisbon, and finally flying to Barcelona. I will leave the riad about 7:30 in the morning and will not be in Barcelona until 22:50. I don't expect to reach my hotel there until after midnight.