Am in Beijing

Sunday, June 8, 2008--Bacolod to Cebu

I didn't realize it until late last night, but the only tricycles operating in the center of town here are the ones with bicycles rather than motorcycles. They don't move much faster than I do when I walk. Also, I would hate to have some poor soul pedaling me and my luggage all the way to the bus station. Therefore, I decided I probably should walk this morning and set my alarm accordingly. It only took me 30 minutes to get to the station, and I was glad to have the exercise.

I have worried about problems in advance of today's arrival. I am flying out of the airport for Cebu tonight just after midnight, so a big problem in my travels to get there (3 hours by bus, 2 hours by boat, and 3 more hours by bus) could happen. I was consoled only by knowing that my schedule still would get me to Cebu about 7 hours before my flight. Well, the first bus trip went fine. The ferry looked a bit dodgy, but it was the only choice. I could see Cebu across the water, and the day was nice with no wave action; therefore, I guessed we would be fine. Just in case, however, I sat underneath the container with all the life jackets. It was a relief to be coming to shore on the other side knowing that the ferry had made it and that there would be one bus after another if anything happened with the bus.

But there was a problem I didn't foresee. We could not get off the ferry for two reasons! First, there was another ferry in the port, and when we pulled up beside them and lowered our deck, only a corner of it went onto the unloading platform; the rest was hanging up in the air with a drop off. Second, the tides were too low for us to pull to the side and have the entire deck go down to the lower area beside the unloading platform.

It was obvious to me that the other boat should just move to the side briefly, let us unload, and then move back into place. Apparently the boat captain thought otherwise. I guess he figured fuel is too expensive to waste it helping others. Of course, the bus company could have sent another bus from somewhere to pick us up and left our bus on the ferry until it could be taken off. But nothing seemed to be happening. It was as if no one cared about solving the problem. We waited and waited. People from the bus stepped off the boat and went over to stalls to drink and eat. After about 50 minutes, I went out and talked to a young guy to see if he knew if anything was happening. He said he thought we would be waiting about 3 hours until the tide was up! At least, I could still get to my flight even if that happened.

The young guy was nice. He is a mechancial engineering student who was headed to Cebu for a review course before taking his licensing exams. He is worried about passing and said that only about 4 out of the 15 students who finish his program each year pass. But he was obviously a sharp guy. I bet he passes. I hope so.

Suddenly, as he and I talked, there was an announcement and the other boat started its engines. Somehow a deal had been made for him to shift over about 10 meters so we could shift 6 meters and unload. We all got back on the bus and waited. The cars unloaded first, and it was a close call for them as they went over the hump even when we were docked against the higher unloading platform. When our bus went, there was a problem. We were too low and couldn't make it. But they had some thick boards. They put them under our back wheels which raised the bus up enough to make the hump without scraping. What a relief. We were on our way again after about 1 1/4 hours!

I thought the bus would go to the south side of Cebu, but when I tracked our route on my map, we were going in through the north. That was even better. It meant we would pass the cut off to the airport. I decided to get off there if they would let me. Sure enough, the bus stopped and LOTS of people got off there. It was still light, and I still had about 6 hours before my flight, so with my map in hand and pulling my suitcase, I headed out for the airport. It was still maybe 5 km (3 miles) away. Everyone was amazed to see me walking. They all said hello and smiled as I passed. Taxis kept stopping, and I kept waving them off. The only big problem is that there is a high bridge over a waterway between Cebu and Mactan Island where the airport is. Pulling my luggage up that incline got me hot and sweaty. But I made it. I made the turn off to the airport just as it was beginning to get dark. I only had maybe half a kilometer (1/4 mile) more to go when a DHL driver insisted that I get in his truck and ride with him, so I did.

After that, it was just a long wait. The Cebu airport is as disorganized as my guidebook had said it would be. They won't let people go through security until about 2 hours before a flight. Then there is a huge crowd of people pushing and shoving to get though. After security, check in was going smoothly. (That is expect for mine. They didn't like my paper ticket, the fact that I was not returning to Seoul, etc. It took a long time to deal with that.) Then the dreaded airport tax had to be paid with lines for it. Finally, there was the desk for checking passports and processing us out of the country. Only 1 man, a lazy, slow-moving man, was at that desk. And many passengers had not filled out their exit paperwork before arriving there. It took forever to get people past that point. After that, they tried to force people to go to the duty free shop before putting their hand luggage through security. I just asked them what I was going to be able to buy for 5.35 pesos (about 14 cents U.S.)!! I had changed my extra pesos into Chinese Yuan at the exchange desk in the outer hall earlier (one of the good things that happened at the airport). Anyway, that was it. I was in the departure hall and all I had to do was wait then.

Spending Update: I spent $462.21 over 18 days in the Philippines for an average of $25.68 per day. Since departing from Texas, I have spent $1614.77 over 35 days for an average of $46.13 per day.

Monday, June 9, 2008--Cebu to Inchon to Beijing

I am so tired. Our flight left Cebu at 1:05 a.m. After the meal was served, I slept fitfully for about 3 hours. Arrival in Seoul was only 1 1/4 hours before departure for Beijing. I reclined on the seats near the gate and maybe dozed a bit more. I didn't sleep on the flight to Beijing. It was only 1 1/2 hours, and we ate breakfast and I had an International Herald Tribune to read.

The airport in Beijing is huge. And empty at 10:00 a.m.!!! It's modern and nice. After going through immigration, we had to take the train to another terminal to pick up our luggage. It was empty, too. There was no problem with either immigration or customs. But this place is still not ready for visitors:

1. No one speaks even simple English. I was looking for the Tourist Information Desk which my guidebook said is at the airport. There were lots of Tourist Hotel Booking desks. When I would ask about tourist information, they didn't comprehend. They thought I wanted to buy a tour. I went to the airport information desk. They had no idea what tourist information meant either. They also could not tell me whether the light rail (metro) line was open from the airport yet. (My guidebook said it was scheduled to start operating this month.) Finally, I found the shuttle bus ticket counter and just bought a ticket for downtown on it. It was impossible to tell where the bus was stopping; announcements were only in Chinese. (Fortunately, I was following with my map in my tourist guidebook and knew when to get off based on that.)

2. I am still looking for tourist information. I went to the train station, and the tourist information building there is chained shut with no sign indicating if they have moved. Anyone coming here who is not on a tour will face problems.

3. Traffic does not stop for pedestrians even when they are in the crosswalk and there is a walk sign in green for them.

I am sure there will be more things to add to that list. The city, however, is clean (other than the air) and attractive. The architecture is only okay, however. I expected to be wowed, but so far, it can't match what there is in Shanghai. What seems strange is that even in the center of town everything is new. They have town down everything old to build new. Only a few pockets of old buildings can be found, and they are clustered inside alleys.

I met a Chinese artist on the bus coming from the airport. He is here for the opening of a new show at the National Gallery tonight. He suggested that I should go, but I don't have clothes appropriate for something like that. I would love to have that experience if I had some nicer clothes with me. He was an interesting man. He has lived in Australia teaching at universities there. Now he is back in China at a university in Shanghai. I have a feeling that the government is paying people like him big salaries to return and work here. Wish I could have spent more time with him. I think he is leaving town tomorrow, however. We walked to our hotels together from the bus stop, since they were both in the same area.

My hotel is very nice. It is of the level of a Holiday Inn or a Marriott at home, I guess. This being China, however, all the cable channels are Chinese. They do have a news channel in English, but, of course, it is the news as the Communists let it be reported. Otherwise, it is a newly remodeled, clean, comfortable room with all the regular amenities. Oh, and the shower head is about 25 cm (10 inches) in diameter!! How nice.

I fell asleep in my room. It was a deep, deep sleep. I awoke only because the sun was shining on me through the window. And when I awoke, I still had that deep, drowsy feeling. Finally, I forced myself to get up and clean up. That was at 15:30. Now it is 18:00. I will go back toward my room, buying some water on the way.