Palenque Ruins

Wednesday, Mar. 30, 2011--Palenque

The guidebook said that the ruins would open at 8:00. That's late for most ruins in the world. Often, they are open for visitors to be present at sunrise. Also, the guidebook said that the vans to the ruins would begin running at 6:00. That seemed to be a big discrepancy. Therefore, I decided to go early in hopes the ruins would be open at least by 7:00. I took a 6:30 van.  Sure enough, the ruins were closed and would not open until 8:00.  I didn't have my book with me, because I didn't want to carry its weight all morning.  I sat and waited.  Then I noticed a woman set up a taco operation and attract a few customers.  I went over to see, and they looked good.  The locals were amused that I was there, and they were surprised when I ordered.  I got 3 tacos.  Each had a spoonful of rice topped by meat and finally by black beans.  I got one with ground beef, one with shredded chicken, and one with cochinita pibil (marinated pork).  I added picante sauce and sat on the curb to eat with all the others.  The tacos were delicious, especially the one with the pork.  I should have gotten more than one of those.  Total cost:  15 pesos, about $1.25!

Just before 8:00, three large tour buses pulled into the parking lot.  The lady inside the ticket booth started stamping the date on ticket after ticket.  I worried that maybe they would favor the guides from the tour buses and sell them their tickets before those of us already in line got ours.  Fortunately, that didn't happen.  They opened the window and started selling tickets.  I got mine and was the first through the gates to see the ruins.

Because I knew the big tour groups were coming, I decided on a strategy of going through the whole complex first taking the best photos I could of the distant shots showing whole buildings or clusters of buildings.  I wanted to get them before crowds would be in my frame.  I managed to stay ahead of the groups, and I finished that within 30 minutes.  Then I slowly made my way back through the complex climbing the buildings and taking photos of specific features.

Palenque ruins are not as impressive as those at Chichen Itza or Uxmal, I don't think, in terms of the architecture of the buildings.  However, they have very impressive sculptures here--both still in place within the ruins and in the accompanying museum.   I found myself taking lots more photos of details than I have done previously at sites of large ruins.

While there, I met an American woman and her French (Algerian?) husband.  After living in France, they have been homeless and traveling around the world for the past 1 1/2 years.  They've been here in Mexico now for 3 months starting on the Pacific coast and moving eastward.  It was nice to talk to them about travels.  They are looking for a place to settle down and maybe open a small business such as owning 2-3 apartments they rent.  They said that the west coast of Mexico was too cold for them.  They plan to look along the eastern Yucatan coast or the island of Holbox.  I didn't think at the time to ask them if they have considered the hurricanes that come through there regularly.  They were pleased to know that the Cancun airport has many international flights to both the US and Europe.

The couple I met were staying in one of the jungle lodges--backpacker facilities that are near the park entrance rather than in town.  They weren't too happy there.  They said there wasn't enough privacy.  I had chosen not to stay there because the descriptions made me think it would not be as comfortable a place as I would want.  Besides, there is no air conditioning out there at those places!

It was noon and HOT when I got back into town.  I spent the afternoon in the room reading newspapers on the computer and relaxing.  I eventually went out about 16:30 and had a torta and bought a pastry.  While out, I finally found the hotel I had been seeking yesterday; it didn't look as nice as where I am staying, so I guess it is good that I never found it.  I returned to my room within an hour, however.  My shirt was already damp and clinging to my body.  Thank goodness I have an air conditioned room!