Tirana

Saturday, July, 25, 2009--Saranda to Tirana

I was at the bus station at 5:15 with no idea when the next bus would be leaving. The one I as directed to was already 1/2 full. We pulled out at 5:30, so I had good timing!

I was also lucky with the route of the bus. There are two routes used to go from Saranda to Tirana, the capital of Albania. The most popular one is back up through the center of the country over roads that I had mostly already traveled. The other is over a new coastal road that I had been told has dramatic scenery. Sure enough, my bus followed the coastal road. There were lots of twists, and there was one very high (1000 m plus) pass that involved about 8 switchbacks to get to the top of the mountain. There were wonderful beaches with almost no development and few people on them and with clear aquamarine water that almost glowed toward the edges where it had little depth.

There were six young men who got on the bus at one stop. The only empty seat was one beside me, and one of them took it. All the others later got seats as people left the bus. Alban, the one beside me spoke a little English. He explained that they were students who had taken 5 days to go to the beach together. Later, at one of our bus stops, I got to meet the others. One, who studies in Malaysia, speaks very good English and answered many of my questions. They insisted that I join them in having a large bowl of yogurt which that restaurant makes homemade. It was delicious. We all stayed together through the ride and the second stop before getting to Tiran at 14:30.

Prices at hotels here in Albania are inflated for foreigners. I wish that countries could have set prices. One of the men sitting across the aisle from men insisted that I not pay more than 20 Euros per night for a room. Of course, no hotel here in Tirana would quote a price that low or go down to that price for me. Instead of a hotel, I've chosen to stay at a hostel--Freddy's Hostel. I have a private room with my own bath and with a/c an TV. But I can hear noises through the walls, and I hate that. Hotels are better. And still I am having to pay more than suggested--24 Euros for this room. One advantage is that it has free use of a computer, although someone seems to be on it at all times. (I got up early to find it free.)

I was tired and did not want to explore any today. Instead, I went down the street to a supermarket. I bought a bottle of Albanian wine and some small toasts flavored with Italian spices. Then I bought a slice of pizza at a fast food restaurant nearby. I bought those back to the room for my dinner.

I finished reding Breath, Eyes, Memory by Edwidge Danicat. I had read a book of short stories by the same author last year and enjoyed them. She does a fascinating job of giving insight into Haitian culture, especially as it relates to women, customs, and superstitions. I gave the book 3 1/2 stars out of 4. There is an Australian couple here at the hostel, and I will pass the book to them to read now.