Northern Greece

Thursday, July 16,2009--Delhi to Istanbul

I was at the airport at 1:00 and checked in for my flight. Unfortunately, many of the flights from India are in the late night/early morning hours.

While waiting for the flight, I finished reading The Gravedigger's Daughter by Joyce Carol Oates. It is a very good story about a woman who reinvents herself tobe able to escape her past and be able to continue to exist. I gave it 3 1/2 stars out of 4.

The flight was smooth. I slept about 2 1/2 hours. One Indian man near me was typically "Indian" when they brought the health form required by Turkey. It was more complicated than normal, but still, this man was unreasonable. He was refusing to complete it even when told all he had to give was his name, address, and telephone number. I am sure he thought he was too important to have to do such a thing. He was told he would have to stay on the plane and return to India when they landed if he didn't complete it! Yeah for Turkish Airlines!!!

I've noticed more and more people breaking the rules about the use of electronics on planes, too. My neighbor turned toward the wall and hunched his back so no one could see what he was doing. I could see a flash of light. I am sure he was checking his text messages. Then he went to the toilet and stayed about 15 minutes, probably to respond!

Today turned out to be a lucky one for me. Everything fell into place. We arrived in Istanbul (where, I had forgotten, they have the slowest and most disorganized passport control area I have ever encountered). I took the metro to the train station hoping I could get a ticket for the night train to Thessaloniki. And I did!!

I stayed at the train station all day. I read one of my books. I watched people. I bought a sesame seed bread ring and ate it with some leftover butter and jam from the plane. I bought a pita sandwich with dried beef in it for dinner. By the end of the day, I had used all my Turkish money that had been left from last year, and I didn't have to get any extra.

I boarded the train at 20:30 ahead of its departure at 21:00. I met my neighbors--an older couple from Scotland, a young Greek lady named Athena, and two young students (guys) from Kolding in Denmark. I visited with all of them until time for bed. I had my own compartment. It had a small sofa, a sink for shaving/cleaning, and a bed overhead. It was quite cozy and comfortable.

Friday, July 17, 2009--On the Train and in Thessaloniki

We stopped at the border early in the morning where they checked passports and also our luggage. I was sound asleep when they knocked loudly on my door. I jumped hitting my head against a corner or a protruding screw. It cut my forehead about 2.5cm (1 inch). The Scottish lady had a tissue with disinfectant in it which she gave me. It cleaned the cut which soon clotted and dried.

The train arrived at 10:00. I got a map from the Tourist Office. Then Athena, the Greek lady traveling with me made phone calls to see about availability at the hotels I had chosen. My first choice, a really nice looking place overlooking the old theater ruins was full. My second choice was cheaper and available. It's a simple room, but it has a balcony, a TV, ceiling fan, private bath, and clean linens for $40 per night--cheap in the EU.

I went out exploring town. I saw the Agia Sofia Church, the Photography Museum, and a special exhibit called Biennial 2 which consisted of several multimedia art projects.

A block from the museums, I walked to the door of a gallery and glanced inside. The owner came to the door and insisted that I come inside. He (Vangelis) and I started talking and just couldn't seem to stop. We talked about my travels, his architectural designs, the art in the gallery, etc. He encouraged me to make my own art for the walls in my house. Two hours later, his partner in the gallery and brother, Socrates, arrived. We continued to visit and had juice while doing so. I had been there three hours when I left. It was pure pleasure--talking, talking, talking. I always wish, when I meet people like this, that they lived in San Antonio so we could become friends.

Then a real coincidence occurred. Within 15 minutes of leaving the gallery and as I was walking down a shopping street, there was Athena from the train! We kissed hello and expressed our surprise of seeing each other. She was cleaned up and out for coffee and shopping. We visited briefly and then parted again.

It was after 17:00, and I had not eaten all day. I went to a small place and had a gyro sandwich stuffed with juicy chunks of chicken.

Back at the hotel, I was so tired that I went to bed early (around 20:00).

Saturday, July 18, 2009--Thessaloniki

I was awake early, so I went to explore the bus services. I had read I could catch a bus from here to Korce in Albania. Sure enough, there is a bus service that runs from across the street from the train station. I bought a ticket for the 9:00 bus on Monday.

Returning to the hotel, I explored my neighborhood and went to see some ruins and another old church. I stopped at a bakery and bought a slice of spinach pie made with filo dough. It was warm, and I walked and ate while exploring.

The rest of the morning, I read and I napped some. When afternoon came, I went out to find a cyber cafe. It's not so easy to do in wealthier countries like this. The one near my hotel I had found was closed. Finally, about 10 blocks away, a man in a computer shop marked the locations of three cafes for me, and I came here to the nearest one.