Relaxing in Shimla

Wednesday, Aug. 29, 2007--Shimla

My sleep was disturbed this morning by monkeys running back and forth on the roof. The hotel is a historical structure with a metal roof. The monkeys are quite compact and heavy, so when they chase each other, it makes a boom, boom, boom sound rumbling from one end to the other. There are many monkeys here, but maybe not as many as there used to be. Tourists are encouraged not to feed them. And my guidebook reports that many have been rounded up by the authorities and sent to one of the old Soviet republics where they love having them (at least for now).

Took care of chores today. I went down the street behind the hotel looking for the places I need. I found a barber shop and got my hair cut--a razor cut with a scalp massage; it cost a total of about 75 cents U.S. including a 20% tip! I finally found a store selling water in 2 liter containers (the best size to buy since it costs the same as the 1.5 liter size). I looked for a laundry I was told was there, but I never found it. I found a better cyber cafe at the tourist office and used it for my time online.

The man at the cyber cafe recommended a place for lunch and it was good. I had rice and a special dal which mixed red beans in with the lentils and had tomatoes and onions in the sauce. I will go back there for another meal.

I walked up to the big square on the ridge of the mountain where there are always crowds mingling and visiting. I sat on a bench and read for a while. Occasionally I would stop reading and watch the people. Eventually, however, it started to drizzle, so I returned to my room to rest for a while. I asked the people at the hotel whether they do laundry, and they told me an outside laundry would send a man around at 7:00 to pick up my things.

I just snacked for dinner, because I wanted to be back to the room to watch a movie on TV. I bought some samosas (deep fried pastries stuffed with a spicy potato mixture) and some fried potato pancakes that were stuffed with a spicy green vegetable mixture. They were very tasty.

Thursday, Aug. 30, 2007--Shimla

Shimla has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world on a clear day. There are layers of mountains that can be seen in the distance in two directions, since Shimla itself is on top of a ridge of mountains. As one walks along The Mall which generally follows the ridge in Shimla, it is lined with trees and old colonial buildings beyond the central business district. In the gaps are the nice views across to the other mountains.

Before heading out for the day, I went to the cyber cafe at the tourist office. I made the mistake of going at 9:00 when they are scheduled to open. One problem in India, however, is that government employees are notorious for not arriving at work on time (if they arrive at all). It was 9:25 before the cyber cafe was up and running.

I took a long walk along the ridge westward to the Viceregal Mansion--a huge stone home that was built for the Viceroys (the men who where sent by Britain to rule India) to use when the government moved here during the summer months. It is a magnificent structure--three stories with a large square-shaped tower to the rear and a rounded tower on one of the front corners. Inside, it has lots of teak paneling stretching up to two stories high. It is historical also due to the fact that it is where the papers were signed for the partioning of the country into India and Pakistan before receiving independence. Outside are nice gardens surrounding a very well manicured green lawn. The house is presently used as an institute for Indian studies which is limited in use only to people with Ph.D.s in the social sciences.

As I wandered the lawns and took pictures, a young man asked me to sit on the bench with him. I thought maybe he was one of the scholars there for research purposes. But he was a student from the local university who had come to relax in the gardens after a class was canceled. We visited for quite a while. His English was limited. Then I excused myself.

I had intended to walk further to the university campus, but I decided to head back into town. It was already about 13:30 and I hadn't eaten, so I picked up some more snacks--two samosas and two more pastries filled with a spicy mixture. I ate them as I returned to the hotel.

I was told my laundry would be returned at 18:00, so I relaxed in my room reading and watching TV until then. Afterwards, I went to another restaurant that my guidebook recommended. It was very nice with cloth napkins and fancy service. I ordered one of my favorite dishes (which I have not had on this trip yet)--chicken tikka masala--and had it with naan. Spicy and good!! UMMMM!

My time here is coming to an end. Friday is my last day in Shimla. On Saturday, I will take the train from here to Delhi. Then On Monday, I will fly out of there for Berlin (via Munich). I will probably post again in Delhi before leaving. I won't arrive in Berlin until the evening on Monday.