Guinea Pigs Roasted on a Spit

Saturday Night and Sunday, Sept. 30/Oct.1, 2017--Banos and Riobamba

I did go out after the rain Saturday night.  Lots was happening in town.  In front of the Cathedral there was what seemed to be an open-air mass on a stage beside a float with the typical Catholic dressed up doll.  At the other main plaza, a group was performing a play in pantomime that seemed to be for children.

Sidewalks were crowded with people, so I walked around just watching.  As I passed the front of the market, I saw something I had read about but had not observed yet.  Guinea pigs are a popular food item in Ecuador and southern Colombia.  I have seen them listed on menus in several towns.  But here, two women were roasting whole ones on spits over charcoal.  They were long and skinny with little heads.  They must be popular, because both women already had about 10 each cooked and ready to sell.

The bus trip Sunday morning to Riobamba took only about 1 1/2 hours.  However, as is common in Ecuador for buses continuing to other destinations, the driver stopped at a major intersection to let us off instead of driving into town to the terminal.  It is times like this when mobile phones with GPS really are helpful.  I had no idea where I was until I could pull up my position on the map app of the phone.  Then I knew exactly what direction to go.  I was about 1 1/2 miles (2.5 km) from my apartment.

This isn't really an apartment, but I knew that.  It has no kitchen.  But it has a private outside entrance and its own bath, so I can come and go without disturbing anyone, and it is only $12 per night and located right on the edge of the center of town but on a rather quiet residential street.

My landlord and his wife invited me inside their home for a fresh glass of orange-lime juice.  They are nice and interesting young people.  Then they, on the way to pick up their twins, dropped me off at the train station.

One of the reasons for stopping in Riobamba was to try to buy an advance ticket for the Devil's Nose train, one of the world's most dramatic train rides.  I was able to get my ticket for Tuesday.  I will travel by bus from here to Alausi, take the 2 1/2 hour round-trip train ride from there, then catch another bus onward to Cuenca, my next city to visit.

After getting my ticket, I wandered around the center of Riobamba.  I found two markets, several plazas, etc.  The most interesting experience was coming across a funeral procession.  It was old-world style with everyone marching down a neighborhood street near where I am staying.  In front was a band playing dirges.  Next were children carrying all the flower arrangements.  Then came men carrying the casket on their shoulders.  Last was the crowd of mourners dressed in black.  They were headed toward a nearby church from either a funeral home our the house of the deceased.

In the evening, I finished reading The Lowands by Jhumpa Lahiri.  She is one of my favorite writers.  It is seldom that I can enjoy reading multiple books by the same author, but I have read all but one of her books now.  This one is very well written with a fascinating storyline.  I gave it 4 stars out of 5.