Monday, Oct. 30, 2017--San Antonio
My draining sinuses (probably a cold) were still bothering me when I flew home on Friday night/Saturday morning, Oct. 27/28. Having wet shoes/socks from the rain getting to the bus stop to go to the airport combined with the cold temperatures in the airports in Quito and Houston didn't help. It was quite uncomfortable.
The flight from Quito to Houston (leaving at 00:35 and arriving at 5:45) went well. I was able to doze off and on, but not get much real sleep. Going through immigration in Houston went the fastest ever because I used the Mobile Passport program. While standing in the aisle of the plane waiting for people ahead of me to clear out, I filled in the data on my mobile phone and took my photo. As soon as I was in the terminal walking to the immigration hall, I submitted the mobile form. When I got downstairs, there was a special line for people who were using mobile passport. Being the only one using it (and, therefore, probably the only one aware of it), I walked to all the way to the front of that line while there were hundreds of people waiting in the "regular" line and while Global Entry people were still standing at their terminals filling out the online information for their "quick" entry they had paid to have. When the man finished with a passenger he was helping, he motioned for me. He asked to see the photo on my phone to match it to my face, asked me to tap the "bar code" which is really a QR code to enlarge it, and asked me to put it against the scanner. My information immediately came up on his screen, and he said, "Welcome home, Mr. Drum." I was the third person from my flight (the others were from First Class, had gotten off the plane much earlier than I had, and probably had gone through Global Entry to get there before me) to be standing at the carousel waiting for our luggage to start coming up.
There was a bit of a concern when our plane backed out from the gate in Houston to leave for San Antonio. It stopped, and the pilot explained that we were waiting for diagnostic data to be reviewed and approved. Maybe every time a place is ready to take off, they do this as part of making sure that all systems are operating properly. But we sat there for maybe 10 minutes waiting. I kept thinking, "Something is wrong and they are going to cancel our flight or have to do repairs before we can leave." But the pilot eventually announced that the diagnosis was completed and that the crew should take their seats for departure. What a relief.
My sister was at the airport to pick me up. On the way home, we had a Mexican breakfast--my first Mexican food in 10 weeks. Everything at home was fine, but one problem quickly occurred. I turn off water to my toilets when I leave. Within a few moments of turning on the water to the toilet in my bathroom, water started spewing everywhere. The hose had burst. What a disaster that would have been if it had occurred when I wasn't at home!
Spending Update for Each Country and for the Whole Trip:
Spending for Colombia: I spent 1,982,460 pesos (3000 = $1 so $660.82 in pesos) and $686.03 in dollars on credit card charges for a total of $1346.85 over 35 days for an average of $38.48 per day.
Spending for Ecuador: I spent $1409.07 (they use the US dollar as their currency in Ecuador) over a total of 38 days for an average of $37.08 per day.
Spending for the Whole Trip: I spent $2755.92 over 73 days for an average of $37.75 per day for this trip through Colombia and Ecuador. I don't usually include my airfare on figuring daily costs of trips; often it is free because of using points. But I paid $807.94 for my airfare for this trip bringing the total cost of the trip to $3563.86 for a daily average of $48.82.
Monday, October 30, 2017
Friday, October 27, 2017
Headed Home
Friday, Oct. 27, 2017--Quito
I made one final outing this morning to see an art museum in the building with the library. It had 5 exhibits all tied to women including their lack of representation as artists in major museums, the way the must cover themselves in many countries where men do not, about the Gorilla Girls movement, negative quotes by famous men about women, etc.
I stayed at my apartment until 15:30. That's when I had planned to leave, but rain clouds started forming, so I decided to leave at 15:00. But just then the owner showed up wanting to have a friendly visit. Fifteen minutes later while we were visiting, the rain started. I had missed my chance to get to the bus stop dry. When we left at 15:30, water was rushing in the streets, cars and buses were sending big splashes of water across the sidewalks, etc. My shoes, socks, and pants legs were soaked by the time I reached the bus stop 1 1/2 blocks away.
The trip to the airport took 2 1/4 hours. I arrived just before 18:00. I have been watching people, reading, walking to heat up my feet for drying my socks and shoes, etc.
The flight to Houston leaves at 00:35. I should be in San Antonio at 10:13 in the morning.
I made one final outing this morning to see an art museum in the building with the library. It had 5 exhibits all tied to women including their lack of representation as artists in major museums, the way the must cover themselves in many countries where men do not, about the Gorilla Girls movement, negative quotes by famous men about women, etc.
I stayed at my apartment until 15:30. That's when I had planned to leave, but rain clouds started forming, so I decided to leave at 15:00. But just then the owner showed up wanting to have a friendly visit. Fifteen minutes later while we were visiting, the rain started. I had missed my chance to get to the bus stop dry. When we left at 15:30, water was rushing in the streets, cars and buses were sending big splashes of water across the sidewalks, etc. My shoes, socks, and pants legs were soaked by the time I reached the bus stop 1 1/2 blocks away.
The trip to the airport took 2 1/4 hours. I arrived just before 18:00. I have been watching people, reading, walking to heat up my feet for drying my socks and shoes, etc.
The flight to Houston leaves at 00:35. I should be in San Antonio at 10:13 in the morning.
Thursday, October 26, 2017
Seeing a Few Final Sights
Thursday, Oct. 26, 2017--Quito
I think I slept better last night, and I am sure I feel a bit better and have more energy today. I am hoping that a big change will be obvious tonight and tomorrow, since I take my last antibiotic pill tomorrow.
My first stop today was the Museo Archivo de Architectivo de Ecuador. It is the local architecture museum. They have a large exhibition on Corbussier who designed some of the furniture I have. The exhibit, however, concentrated on photos and sketches from his travels that he used to hone his craft.
From there, I went to the Iglesia de San Francisco, one of the best churches in town. It has unbelievably beautiful and ornate ceilings and an impressive golden alter. From the sidewalk in front of the church there are fantastic views across the city and to the green mountains beyond.
Next to the church, I saw the Cantuna Chapel which is smaller, but also impressive. It is only open on Sundays and Thursdays, so I waited until today to see them together.
I walked by a couple of other places, but one was unimpressive and the other was closed. So I just wandered around. A huge rally was forming on the main plaza, and huge crowds of people were marching for blocks down the street from my apartment to join it. It was obviously political. Maybe elections are scheduled soon.
I heard something disturbing this afternoon. A father was fussing and started whipping his young daughter. What was especially upsetting about it was that the uproar continued for 20 minutes with 4 different sessions of spankings accompanied by yelling from him and screaming by her. What could have been so bad?
I think I slept better last night, and I am sure I feel a bit better and have more energy today. I am hoping that a big change will be obvious tonight and tomorrow, since I take my last antibiotic pill tomorrow.
My first stop today was the Museo Archivo de Architectivo de Ecuador. It is the local architecture museum. They have a large exhibition on Corbussier who designed some of the furniture I have. The exhibit, however, concentrated on photos and sketches from his travels that he used to hone his craft.
From there, I went to the Iglesia de San Francisco, one of the best churches in town. It has unbelievably beautiful and ornate ceilings and an impressive golden alter. From the sidewalk in front of the church there are fantastic views across the city and to the green mountains beyond.
Next to the church, I saw the Cantuna Chapel which is smaller, but also impressive. It is only open on Sundays and Thursdays, so I waited until today to see them together.
I walked by a couple of other places, but one was unimpressive and the other was closed. So I just wandered around. A huge rally was forming on the main plaza, and huge crowds of people were marching for blocks down the street from my apartment to join it. It was obviously political. Maybe elections are scheduled soon.
I heard something disturbing this afternoon. A father was fussing and started whipping his young daughter. What was especially upsetting about it was that the uproar continued for 20 minutes with 4 different sessions of spankings accompanied by yelling from him and screaming by her. What could have been so bad?
Wednesday, October 25, 2017
Continuing to Explore While Ill
Wednesday, Oct. 25, 2017--Quito
Today's plan was to see the Museo de Cuidad. After the National Museum which I didn't get to see yesterday due to closure for remodeling, this museum is considered to be the second best in Quito. Located in an old monastery, it is a very nice museum telling the story of the city from the time of its first residents to the present. Rather than fill it with every possible old thing they could find, it seems almost sparsely filled with recreations of aspects of points of the city's history--a sample hut of early settlers, a sample general store from the 1800's, seats from the Devil's Nose railroad (built from here to Guayaquil) with film projected onto the windows as if the train is moving, mannequins in costumes from local festivals, etc.
After seeing the museum, I had lunch at a Hari Krishna restaurant. They are located in many cities of the world, and I have considered going to one before. This one is only about 4 blocks from my apartment, so I went today. They have a set menu, repeated weekly, for each day if the week. And they only serve vegetarian food. I had a spinach-potato soup, brown rice with peanuts, a seasoned and roasted slice of potato, and a steamed medley of zucchini, hominy, broccoli, and slices of leeks. On the side , I had a salad with tomatoes, lettuce, another darker green, carrots, onions, and an avocado dressing. Dessert was a small bowl of sliced strawberries in syrup. It came with a warm fruit-flavored drink.
Unfortunately, I still had sinus drainage for the third night in a row last night. Also I found my body feeling weak and tired as I wandered around town today. In addition, my neck felt warm as if I might have a slight fever. I stopped by a pharmacy near the restaurant and described my symptoms. The lady sold me antibiotics to take for 3 days. She also said to take Advil 3 times a day. I started the regimen at 13:30, so I will finish it Friday afternoon before leaving the apartment for the airport. I am hoping this will make me well by the time I get home.
I finished reading The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard Flanagan today. It won the Man Booker Prize a few years ago and tells the story of Australian POWs during WWII who were used as slave labor by the Japanese army to build the Siam-Burma railway project. It is very well written and includes stories of the lives of men from both sides both before and after the war in addition to the war story. I rank it almost as good as Atonement which is one of the best stories I have read. I gave this one 4 3/4 stars out of 5.
Today's plan was to see the Museo de Cuidad. After the National Museum which I didn't get to see yesterday due to closure for remodeling, this museum is considered to be the second best in Quito. Located in an old monastery, it is a very nice museum telling the story of the city from the time of its first residents to the present. Rather than fill it with every possible old thing they could find, it seems almost sparsely filled with recreations of aspects of points of the city's history--a sample hut of early settlers, a sample general store from the 1800's, seats from the Devil's Nose railroad (built from here to Guayaquil) with film projected onto the windows as if the train is moving, mannequins in costumes from local festivals, etc.
After seeing the museum, I had lunch at a Hari Krishna restaurant. They are located in many cities of the world, and I have considered going to one before. This one is only about 4 blocks from my apartment, so I went today. They have a set menu, repeated weekly, for each day if the week. And they only serve vegetarian food. I had a spinach-potato soup, brown rice with peanuts, a seasoned and roasted slice of potato, and a steamed medley of zucchini, hominy, broccoli, and slices of leeks. On the side , I had a salad with tomatoes, lettuce, another darker green, carrots, onions, and an avocado dressing. Dessert was a small bowl of sliced strawberries in syrup. It came with a warm fruit-flavored drink.
Unfortunately, I still had sinus drainage for the third night in a row last night. Also I found my body feeling weak and tired as I wandered around town today. In addition, my neck felt warm as if I might have a slight fever. I stopped by a pharmacy near the restaurant and described my symptoms. The lady sold me antibiotics to take for 3 days. She also said to take Advil 3 times a day. I started the regimen at 13:30, so I will finish it Friday afternoon before leaving the apartment for the airport. I am hoping this will make me well by the time I get home.
I finished reading The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard Flanagan today. It won the Man Booker Prize a few years ago and tells the story of Australian POWs during WWII who were used as slave labor by the Japanese army to build the Siam-Burma railway project. It is very well written and includes stories of the lives of men from both sides both before and after the war in addition to the war story. I rank it almost as good as Atonement which is one of the best stories I have read. I gave this one 4 3/4 stars out of 5.
Tuesday, October 24, 2017
New Town
Tuesday, Oct. 24, 2017--Quito
Quito weather is following a pattern my guidebook described. The day begins cold and sunny. By 10:30 or so it is getting warm enough to remove layers. For a couple of hours in the afternoon (between about 12:30 and 14:30), there is rain. Then the city remains cloudy or mostly cloudy for the rest of the day.
Because of that pattern, I delayed breakfast this morning and went out earlier than usual. My goal was to see the National Museum of Ecuador which I read had extensive collections and which closes for a couple of hours in the early afternoon. My guidebook said it had been temporarily closed for restoration but was reopening in 2016. Unfortunately, when I got there, it was still closed and looked to be far from a reopening date. It is one of the top things to see in the city, and I have missed it.
While there, I was able to see two art exhibits, an exhibit of musical instruments, and a small ethnographic exhibit in part of the building that has remained open during the remodeling. Almost all of the art was uninteresting to me. The musical instruments, especially the pre-colombian ones were special. Many were flutes in unique shapes, especially shapes of animals.
While in the area, I wanted to see what New Town is like. It has modern high-rise office buildings, the large chain hotels, hostals where backpackers stay, franchise restaurants, apartment buildings, expensive souvenir shops, etc. It is also the location of the entertainment district with lots of bars over an area of several blocks. I wouldn't want to stay in the area; it is too similar to fairly new sections of cities all over the world.
Back home about noon, I cooked breakfast. By 12:30, the rain was beginning with lots of thunder. I just stayed inside the rest of the day.
Quito weather is following a pattern my guidebook described. The day begins cold and sunny. By 10:30 or so it is getting warm enough to remove layers. For a couple of hours in the afternoon (between about 12:30 and 14:30), there is rain. Then the city remains cloudy or mostly cloudy for the rest of the day.
Because of that pattern, I delayed breakfast this morning and went out earlier than usual. My goal was to see the National Museum of Ecuador which I read had extensive collections and which closes for a couple of hours in the early afternoon. My guidebook said it had been temporarily closed for restoration but was reopening in 2016. Unfortunately, when I got there, it was still closed and looked to be far from a reopening date. It is one of the top things to see in the city, and I have missed it.
While there, I was able to see two art exhibits, an exhibit of musical instruments, and a small ethnographic exhibit in part of the building that has remained open during the remodeling. Almost all of the art was uninteresting to me. The musical instruments, especially the pre-colombian ones were special. Many were flutes in unique shapes, especially shapes of animals.
While in the area, I wanted to see what New Town is like. It has modern high-rise office buildings, the large chain hotels, hostals where backpackers stay, franchise restaurants, apartment buildings, expensive souvenir shops, etc. It is also the location of the entertainment district with lots of bars over an area of several blocks. I wouldn't want to stay in the area; it is too similar to fairly new sections of cities all over the world.
Back home about noon, I cooked breakfast. By 12:30, the rain was beginning with lots of thunder. I just stayed inside the rest of the day.
Monday, October 23, 2017
Changing of the Guard
Monday, Oct. 22, 2017--Quito
Not much is available for tourists here on Mondays. All museums are closed. Maybe that is why they have a Changing of the Guard ceremony on Mondays at the Plaza Grande in front of the Presidential Palace at 11:00.
When I left the apartment at 9:30, I went the opposite direction to explore Parque la Alameda. There were several reasons. Besides seeing the grand sculpture of Bolivar and the building housing the oldest observatory in South America, I wanted to find the Teatro Capitol to see if any concerts are scheduled for this week. Unfortunately, the only one is for Saturday, the night after I will have left. Also, I wanted to search for the new temporary stop for two of the rapid bus transit lines, since I will need to go there on Friday for the first leg of my trip to the airport. My map shows the stop in front of the supermarket where I shopped on Saturday, but the street is closed there for construction of a station for the new metro line that is being built. Fortunately, I found the temporary stop across the park just about 1 1/2 blocks from my apartment.
Having done that and taken photos in the park, I headed toward the center of the Old Town taking more photos along the way. When I got to the main plaza about 10:15, there was a huge crowd of people. Some were carrying banners, others were dressed in green, and occasionally there was chanting. Metal barriers were up and lots of policeman were on duty. It seemed to me to be a political rally.
I went inside the nearby Casa Cultural Metropolitan which is a large colonial building which is beautifully restored and houses the library and a museum. I wandered through it enjoying the architecture. I was even able to go out on the rooftop where I saw that the crowd on the plaza had not moved and was apparently there for the changing of the guard, since it was then 11:45 and guards on horseback were forming below. (It was also interesting to see on another part of the rooftop a mural painted on the attached wall of an adjoining church that was critical of the Church. It showed a nude man tied to the church by a rope attached to his penis with the claim that the Church keeps the people down.)
As I left the building, I noticed a few people standing on a raised (because of the slant of the ground) sidewalk in front of the Cathedral. Up there, it was like standing on a balcony. I was able to stand behind two short Ecuadorian men and look down on the plaza and the ceremonies. There probably couldn't have been a better observation area.
Soldiers with long flagpoles topped by small banners positioned themselves between columns on the second and third floors of the palace. Then a band, while playing, marched across the second floor balcony, down the side stairs on to the street, and into the center of the square. They were followed by buglers coming from the opposite side, more soldiers with banners from both sides, and mounted guards from both sides. Honored guests on the balcony were recognized, the national anthem was played and sung while the flag was being raised over the palace, the buglers played a fanfare, and the band played another patriotic song which the audience sang. Then the procession was repeated in reverse with each group exiting on the opposite side of the palace from the one where they had entered.
It was a great ceremony. I understand that the President sometimes makes an appearance on the balcony as part of it. He didn't today, but I thought I heard the vice-president being introduced among the dignitaries.
Rain, with a 90 percent chance, had been forecasted to start at 9:30, but it was still sunny at 11:30 when the ceremony ended. I walked further into Old Town and walked down La Ronda. It is a narrow, cobblestoned street which is one of the oldest in town. It is lined with galleries, restaurants, bars, artists' workshops, etc., and the buildings are painted in bright colors. It was rather dead around noon, but I think it is liveliest in the evenings.
On the way home, I stopped at a bakery and bought two pastries. I had one with coffee when I got here at 12:30. At 13:30, the rain finally arrived with lightning and thunder and continued for about two hours. Then it remained cloudy. I didn't go back out, because I seem to be developing a sore throat. I already have food for tonight including the second pastry, so I have stayed in bed resting and reading.
Not much is available for tourists here on Mondays. All museums are closed. Maybe that is why they have a Changing of the Guard ceremony on Mondays at the Plaza Grande in front of the Presidential Palace at 11:00.
When I left the apartment at 9:30, I went the opposite direction to explore Parque la Alameda. There were several reasons. Besides seeing the grand sculpture of Bolivar and the building housing the oldest observatory in South America, I wanted to find the Teatro Capitol to see if any concerts are scheduled for this week. Unfortunately, the only one is for Saturday, the night after I will have left. Also, I wanted to search for the new temporary stop for two of the rapid bus transit lines, since I will need to go there on Friday for the first leg of my trip to the airport. My map shows the stop in front of the supermarket where I shopped on Saturday, but the street is closed there for construction of a station for the new metro line that is being built. Fortunately, I found the temporary stop across the park just about 1 1/2 blocks from my apartment.
Having done that and taken photos in the park, I headed toward the center of the Old Town taking more photos along the way. When I got to the main plaza about 10:15, there was a huge crowd of people. Some were carrying banners, others were dressed in green, and occasionally there was chanting. Metal barriers were up and lots of policeman were on duty. It seemed to me to be a political rally.
I went inside the nearby Casa Cultural Metropolitan which is a large colonial building which is beautifully restored and houses the library and a museum. I wandered through it enjoying the architecture. I was even able to go out on the rooftop where I saw that the crowd on the plaza had not moved and was apparently there for the changing of the guard, since it was then 11:45 and guards on horseback were forming below. (It was also interesting to see on another part of the rooftop a mural painted on the attached wall of an adjoining church that was critical of the Church. It showed a nude man tied to the church by a rope attached to his penis with the claim that the Church keeps the people down.)
As I left the building, I noticed a few people standing on a raised (because of the slant of the ground) sidewalk in front of the Cathedral. Up there, it was like standing on a balcony. I was able to stand behind two short Ecuadorian men and look down on the plaza and the ceremonies. There probably couldn't have been a better observation area.
Soldiers with long flagpoles topped by small banners positioned themselves between columns on the second and third floors of the palace. Then a band, while playing, marched across the second floor balcony, down the side stairs on to the street, and into the center of the square. They were followed by buglers coming from the opposite side, more soldiers with banners from both sides, and mounted guards from both sides. Honored guests on the balcony were recognized, the national anthem was played and sung while the flag was being raised over the palace, the buglers played a fanfare, and the band played another patriotic song which the audience sang. Then the procession was repeated in reverse with each group exiting on the opposite side of the palace from the one where they had entered.
It was a great ceremony. I understand that the President sometimes makes an appearance on the balcony as part of it. He didn't today, but I thought I heard the vice-president being introduced among the dignitaries.
Rain, with a 90 percent chance, had been forecasted to start at 9:30, but it was still sunny at 11:30 when the ceremony ended. I walked further into Old Town and walked down La Ronda. It is a narrow, cobblestoned street which is one of the oldest in town. It is lined with galleries, restaurants, bars, artists' workshops, etc., and the buildings are painted in bright colors. It was rather dead around noon, but I think it is liveliest in the evenings.
On the way home, I stopped at a bakery and bought two pastries. I had one with coffee when I got here at 12:30. At 13:30, the rain finally arrived with lightning and thunder and continued for about two hours. Then it remained cloudy. I didn't go back out, because I seem to be developing a sore throat. I already have food for tonight including the second pastry, so I have stayed in bed resting and reading.
Sunday, October 22, 2017
Wandering through Old Town Quito
Sunday, Oct. 22, 2017--Quito
Even though I slept 10 hours last night, I was still tired today. Another factor was the altitude. It takes most people 2-4 days to adjust to it. Last night before going to bed, I noticed that occasionally there was the sensation of a wave going through my brain. That hasn't happened today, but part of my lack of energy is probably related to the high altitude.
I did go exploring this morning for 3 hours. I managed to wander through most of the Old Town. I went inside two of the more famous churches in town--St. Augustin and Santo Domingo.
Sundays, streets are closed in this part of town and people come out to visit, to watch others, to enjoy the weather, etc. I don't know if it happens every Sunday, but lots of people were bicycling on one of the main streets through town also.
The most exciting experience of the day for me was coming upon a special event. I heard a band playing music. It was the same kind I heard in southern France and in Spain in the spring and in Colombia earlier on this trip. I followed the sound and found them on the patio of a convent. But it was more than just a band concert. It was apparently a recreation of a historical event. Two men in historic costumes interacted. Then they and two more men and a woman in costumes walked out onto the street with the band and the crowd following. The band played as we walked a block to the next intersection where the actors started performing again. Then we marched another block where the performance continued. The crowd was getting too tight in the narrow street, so I turned another direction. It was a fun experience though that I easily could have totally missed.
After relaxing in the room for 3 hours, I went back out. But things were dying down even though it wasn't quite 15:30 yet. I ended up searching for a bakery for some bread and a pastry.
I made coffee and had my chocolate-filled pastry while also boiling some eggs. Then this evening I had a tuna fish sandwich and an apple. I will either read or watch a film on Netflix before going to bed.
Even though I slept 10 hours last night, I was still tired today. Another factor was the altitude. It takes most people 2-4 days to adjust to it. Last night before going to bed, I noticed that occasionally there was the sensation of a wave going through my brain. That hasn't happened today, but part of my lack of energy is probably related to the high altitude.
I did go exploring this morning for 3 hours. I managed to wander through most of the Old Town. I went inside two of the more famous churches in town--St. Augustin and Santo Domingo.
Sundays, streets are closed in this part of town and people come out to visit, to watch others, to enjoy the weather, etc. I don't know if it happens every Sunday, but lots of people were bicycling on one of the main streets through town also.
The most exciting experience of the day for me was coming upon a special event. I heard a band playing music. It was the same kind I heard in southern France and in Spain in the spring and in Colombia earlier on this trip. I followed the sound and found them on the patio of a convent. But it was more than just a band concert. It was apparently a recreation of a historical event. Two men in historic costumes interacted. Then they and two more men and a woman in costumes walked out onto the street with the band and the crowd following. The band played as we walked a block to the next intersection where the actors started performing again. Then we marched another block where the performance continued. The crowd was getting too tight in the narrow street, so I turned another direction. It was a fun experience though that I easily could have totally missed.
After relaxing in the room for 3 hours, I went back out. But things were dying down even though it wasn't quite 15:30 yet. I ended up searching for a bakery for some bread and a pastry.
I made coffee and had my chocolate-filled pastry while also boiling some eggs. Then this evening I had a tuna fish sandwich and an apple. I will either read or watch a film on Netflix before going to bed.
Saturday, October 21, 2017
The Long Travel Day
Saturday, Oct. 28, 2017--Puerto Lopez to Quito
The day started at 3:40 when I got up. At 4:20, I left the hotel and caught a mototaxi (tricycle taxi which is called a tuk tuk in Asia). The bus left at 5:00 and took 10 1/2 hours to get to Quitumbe Terminal in far southern Quito. I left my seat only once to go to the bathroom when we stopped for gas. Then I had to take a Trolebus, one of their rapid bus transit lines in Quito to get from the terminal to my apartment. I was here about 16:45-about 13 house after getting up.
The approach into Quito was beautiful. We climbed and climbed up tall green mountains until eventually we entered the clouds. As we came over the pass and started our way down into Quito, the sun came out.
My apartment here is very nice and is located in the old town, a World Heritage Site where most of the attractions are located. It is a huge apartment in an attractive colonial building with arched windows providing lots of light.
As soon as I got checked in, I went grocery shopping at a small supermarket about 3 blocks away. I made a simple pasta dish for tonight because I am so tired. It's only 20:30, but I think it is time for going to bed.
The day started at 3:40 when I got up. At 4:20, I left the hotel and caught a mototaxi (tricycle taxi which is called a tuk tuk in Asia). The bus left at 5:00 and took 10 1/2 hours to get to Quitumbe Terminal in far southern Quito. I left my seat only once to go to the bathroom when we stopped for gas. Then I had to take a Trolebus, one of their rapid bus transit lines in Quito to get from the terminal to my apartment. I was here about 16:45-about 13 house after getting up.
The approach into Quito was beautiful. We climbed and climbed up tall green mountains until eventually we entered the clouds. As we came over the pass and started our way down into Quito, the sun came out.
My apartment here is very nice and is located in the old town, a World Heritage Site where most of the attractions are located. It is a huge apartment in an attractive colonial building with arched windows providing lots of light.
As soon as I got checked in, I went grocery shopping at a small supermarket about 3 blocks away. I made a simple pasta dish for tonight because I am so tired. It's only 20:30, but I think it is time for going to bed.
Friday, October 20, 2017
Isla de la Plata and Snorkeling
Friday, Oct. 20, 2017--Puerto Lopez
Last night, I went back out for a while. Puerto Lopez looks better along the waterfront at night. There are tent bars and restaurants lined up on the beach with really nice colored light fixtures. If I were traveling with someone, I would have enjoyed sitting at one and having cocktails and a conversation.
Today, I went to Isla de la Plata, an island 42 km (about 25 miles) off the coast. It is protected within the boundaries of Machalilla National Park. I really had no interest in visiting Galapagos as a part of my trip here for several reasons:. 1) I didn't want to be a part of spoiling the islands, 2) They are so remote that it takes a minimum of 4-5 days to go there, 3) I don't like multi-day tours, etc. But visiting Isla de la Plata is a lot like visiting Galapagos.
After an hour on a speedboat, we arrived there. As we paused just off shore near a couple of fishing boats, there were seabirds around us and many giant green turtles swimming in the water.
Landing, we took a 2-hour hike. We saw a snake and lots of lizards on the way to the top of the island. Once there we started seeing may blue-footed boobies-birds with sky blue colored webbed feet. It is their mating season, and we saw at least three couples doing their mating dance. Many of the birds, however, were already nesting. The nest on cleared ground, so they especially like the hiking trails. We saw them sitting on eggs. They lay 1 or 2 (and occasionally 3) eggs. We saw a hatched baby that wasn't doing well and probably won't survive. We saw two babies that we're doing well. We saw a just hatched baby still being protected under its mother's body. As we crossed the top of the island, they were everywhere.
Eventually we came to the nesting area for frigate birds. They nest in trees. A tree could be loaded with many of them. At the same time, many others would be swooping through the air. We found ourselves very close to a female resting on her egg(s). As we took photos, suddenly the male flew in and landed on a branch to protect them.
After returning to the boat, we moved to a calm area and went snorkeling. There weren't a lot of fish there, but there was beautiful coral growth. It seemed so calm and peaceful floating and seeing everything below. We spent maybe 30-45 minutes there.
The trip included snacks--pineapple and watermelon slices, a tuna sandwich, a cheese and jam sandwich, slices of banana bread, bananas, and cola. It was a nice group with 3 young body builder guys from Argentina, a couple from Chile, a young social worker from Montreal, a family and a couple from Ecuador, and me.
I had dinner with the couple from Chile tonight. (I had fish cooked in a coconut sauce.) HThey are actually from here, but they are professionals (a civil engineer and a biologist) who moved there for work. I will see them again next week in Quito.
It has been a very nice day. Tomorrow, however, will be a long travel day. I have to catch a bus at 5:00 tomorrow morning!!!
Last night, I went back out for a while. Puerto Lopez looks better along the waterfront at night. There are tent bars and restaurants lined up on the beach with really nice colored light fixtures. If I were traveling with someone, I would have enjoyed sitting at one and having cocktails and a conversation.
Today, I went to Isla de la Plata, an island 42 km (about 25 miles) off the coast. It is protected within the boundaries of Machalilla National Park. I really had no interest in visiting Galapagos as a part of my trip here for several reasons:. 1) I didn't want to be a part of spoiling the islands, 2) They are so remote that it takes a minimum of 4-5 days to go there, 3) I don't like multi-day tours, etc. But visiting Isla de la Plata is a lot like visiting Galapagos.
After an hour on a speedboat, we arrived there. As we paused just off shore near a couple of fishing boats, there were seabirds around us and many giant green turtles swimming in the water.
Landing, we took a 2-hour hike. We saw a snake and lots of lizards on the way to the top of the island. Once there we started seeing may blue-footed boobies-birds with sky blue colored webbed feet. It is their mating season, and we saw at least three couples doing their mating dance. Many of the birds, however, were already nesting. The nest on cleared ground, so they especially like the hiking trails. We saw them sitting on eggs. They lay 1 or 2 (and occasionally 3) eggs. We saw a hatched baby that wasn't doing well and probably won't survive. We saw two babies that we're doing well. We saw a just hatched baby still being protected under its mother's body. As we crossed the top of the island, they were everywhere.
Eventually we came to the nesting area for frigate birds. They nest in trees. A tree could be loaded with many of them. At the same time, many others would be swooping through the air. We found ourselves very close to a female resting on her egg(s). As we took photos, suddenly the male flew in and landed on a branch to protect them.
After returning to the boat, we moved to a calm area and went snorkeling. There weren't a lot of fish there, but there was beautiful coral growth. It seemed so calm and peaceful floating and seeing everything below. We spent maybe 30-45 minutes there.
The trip included snacks--pineapple and watermelon slices, a tuna sandwich, a cheese and jam sandwich, slices of banana bread, bananas, and cola. It was a nice group with 3 young body builder guys from Argentina, a couple from Chile, a young social worker from Montreal, a family and a couple from Ecuador, and me.
I had dinner with the couple from Chile tonight. (I had fish cooked in a coconut sauce.) HThey are actually from here, but they are professionals (a civil engineer and a biologist) who moved there for work. I will see them again next week in Quito.
It has been a very nice day. Tomorrow, however, will be a long travel day. I have to catch a bus at 5:00 tomorrow morning!!!
Thursday, October 19, 2017
Next-to-the-Last Stop
Thursday, Oct. 19, 2017--Ballenita to Puerto Lopez
As we left Ballenita, we passed several high-rise condominiums along the beach frontage. They must be where most of the expats I saw at the supermarket live.
Every coastal town here is similar--poor and ugly. Mantanitas was the most developed due to its popularity for surfing and partying. But it, too, had lots of unpaved streets and ugly shacks. Puerto Lopez is the same.
I am staying at the Tuzco Lodge. It is quaint and interesting. One of the main reasons for choosing it was it's distance from the center of town where it can be noisy at night.
Today was a day, after first traveling here, for checking things off my to-do list. First, I got a returning-to-Texas haircut. Next, I explored town while investigating tour compnies. I decided on one recommended by two guidebooks and booked a day trip for tomorrow. Next, I walked to the bus terminal which is 30 minutes out of town and bought my bus ticket for Saturday which will become one of my two worst travel days of the trip.
While at the terminal, I ate lunch at a restaurant in an open-air palapa (thatched roof canopy). I had a type of flounder which was very tasty.
I will go back out briefly, but I will spend most of the rest of the day in my room.
As we left Ballenita, we passed several high-rise condominiums along the beach frontage. They must be where most of the expats I saw at the supermarket live.
Every coastal town here is similar--poor and ugly. Mantanitas was the most developed due to its popularity for surfing and partying. But it, too, had lots of unpaved streets and ugly shacks. Puerto Lopez is the same.
I am staying at the Tuzco Lodge. It is quaint and interesting. One of the main reasons for choosing it was it's distance from the center of town where it can be noisy at night.
Today was a day, after first traveling here, for checking things off my to-do list. First, I got a returning-to-Texas haircut. Next, I explored town while investigating tour compnies. I decided on one recommended by two guidebooks and booked a day trip for tomorrow. Next, I walked to the bus terminal which is 30 minutes out of town and bought my bus ticket for Saturday which will become one of my two worst travel days of the trip.
While at the terminal, I ate lunch at a restaurant in an open-air palapa (thatched roof canopy). I had a type of flounder which was very tasty.
I will go back out briefly, but I will spend most of the rest of the day in my room.
Wednesday, October 18, 2017
Relaxing at Seaside Village
Tuesday and Wednesday, Oct. 17 and 18, 2017--Ballenita
There was no problem traveling on Tuesday. I caught the Metrovia rapid bus transit and was at the Guayaquil bus station at 8:30. There was a bus leaving at 8:45, so I took it.
Ballenita is a small village. It has two paved streets, and all the others, including the one where I am staying, are dusty rock. My landlords are an American couple who retired here from Cherry Hill, New Jersey. They have been living here for 7 years and enjoy it. They aren't alone in the area; there are lots of retirees here and nearby.
I have just been relaxing here. I went to the seaside Tuesday for lunch at a place that was a small hut with a thatched roof covered patio. I had fish soup followed by a plate with baked fish that had been sliced an browned. The fish was spread over a bed of rice and served with lentils and a salad with tomatoes, red onions, and slices of pepper. Then I stopped at a supermarket and bought groceries.
The rest of Tuesday and most of today, I mostly stayed in the apartment and rested--watching BBC news, reading, doing travel planning and organizing, etc. I did make another trip to the grocery store. And I spent about an hour by the pool talking with my landlord Ed. There really isn't much else to do here anyway.
Tomorrow is moving day again. I will go another 2 1/2 hours north to Puerto Lopez where I will still be on the coast.
There was no problem traveling on Tuesday. I caught the Metrovia rapid bus transit and was at the Guayaquil bus station at 8:30. There was a bus leaving at 8:45, so I took it.
Ballenita is a small village. It has two paved streets, and all the others, including the one where I am staying, are dusty rock. My landlords are an American couple who retired here from Cherry Hill, New Jersey. They have been living here for 7 years and enjoy it. They aren't alone in the area; there are lots of retirees here and nearby.
I have just been relaxing here. I went to the seaside Tuesday for lunch at a place that was a small hut with a thatched roof covered patio. I had fish soup followed by a plate with baked fish that had been sliced an browned. The fish was spread over a bed of rice and served with lentils and a salad with tomatoes, red onions, and slices of pepper. Then I stopped at a supermarket and bought groceries.
The rest of Tuesday and most of today, I mostly stayed in the apartment and rested--watching BBC news, reading, doing travel planning and organizing, etc. I did make another trip to the grocery store. And I spent about an hour by the pool talking with my landlord Ed. There really isn't much else to do here anyway.
Tomorrow is moving day again. I will go another 2 1/2 hours north to Puerto Lopez where I will still be on the coast.
Monday, October 16, 2017
More of Guayaquil
Monday, Oct. 16, 2017--Guayaquil
All my explorations of the malecon have been toward the north so far. Today, I headed south. Most of the way was similar to the rest of the linear park. But I was interested in seeing the market at the end which is a steel and glass structure from 1905. Unfortunately, it was a disappointment because it was empty. Just outside the gate of the park were hundreds of stalls under an overhead roadway and going down the middle of side streets. My guess is that two factors sent the former tenants away from the beautiful, old market building: 1) Greatly increased rents once the building was remodeled and the park built, and 2) The security system of the park may have made it too difficult for people to shop and carry lots of purchases out of the gates. Whatever the cause, the city has a beautiful, but now useless, ugly duckling on its hands which was a great disappointment to me and probably too many other tourists.
From there, I walked across town to see another malecon, Malecon del Salado. It runs along a small estuary and is nice, but different, from the other one. It has more trees and grass. There are birds. It is more intimate.
This malecon runs beside the campus of the university, so I exited and walked through the campus which was filled with students. Although the setting is nice, it isn't a pretty campus. The buildings are cheaply constructed, suffer from mold or mildew growth, just have grills over open windows, etc. I am sure it gets the job done, but it would be difficult for the intelligent students I saw to be proud of the campus.
Tomorrow, I move to my next stop. Fortunately, it will be a short trip of 2 1/2 hours to the coast.
I finished reading Harvest by Jim Crace. It takes place around the 1600-1700s in a very remote village (really an area with just an old manor house and the homes of maybe 10-12 families who work on the farm) which is probably somewhere in England. It is an interesting story involving superstition, fear of outsiders, restless young people, failure to own up to what has been done or what is known, and how change can occur rapidly in a short period of time. It is a good story and well written. I gave it 4 stars out of 5.
All my explorations of the malecon have been toward the north so far. Today, I headed south. Most of the way was similar to the rest of the linear park. But I was interested in seeing the market at the end which is a steel and glass structure from 1905. Unfortunately, it was a disappointment because it was empty. Just outside the gate of the park were hundreds of stalls under an overhead roadway and going down the middle of side streets. My guess is that two factors sent the former tenants away from the beautiful, old market building: 1) Greatly increased rents once the building was remodeled and the park built, and 2) The security system of the park may have made it too difficult for people to shop and carry lots of purchases out of the gates. Whatever the cause, the city has a beautiful, but now useless, ugly duckling on its hands which was a great disappointment to me and probably too many other tourists.
From there, I walked across town to see another malecon, Malecon del Salado. It runs along a small estuary and is nice, but different, from the other one. It has more trees and grass. There are birds. It is more intimate.
This malecon runs beside the campus of the university, so I exited and walked through the campus which was filled with students. Although the setting is nice, it isn't a pretty campus. The buildings are cheaply constructed, suffer from mold or mildew growth, just have grills over open windows, etc. I am sure it gets the job done, but it would be difficult for the intelligent students I saw to be proud of the campus.
Tomorrow, I move to my next stop. Fortunately, it will be a short trip of 2 1/2 hours to the coast.
I finished reading Harvest by Jim Crace. It takes place around the 1600-1700s in a very remote village (really an area with just an old manor house and the homes of maybe 10-12 families who work on the farm) which is probably somewhere in England. It is an interesting story involving superstition, fear of outsiders, restless young people, failure to own up to what has been done or what is known, and how change can occur rapidly in a short period of time. It is a good story and well written. I gave it 4 stars out of 5.
Sunday, October 15, 2017
Museums, a Protest, and a Colorful Barrio
Sunday, Oct. 15, 2017--Guayaquil
My first stop today was to see Plaza del Centenario. It is a beautiful plaza with a large monument honoring the heroes of the 9th of October. It was just a brief stop, because I was really headed for the Museo Presley Norton. Housed in a nice old mansion, it is a private museum with an archaeological collection of ceramics of unbelievable quality.
Walking back down the street named 9 de Octobre, I saw and heard firetrucks in the distance. It seemed to be a protest, but it could easily have been a celebration. Lined up in the middle of the street for at least 3 blocks were fire trucks. Their sirens were sounding. Then they started spraying water into the air and occasionally aiming the sprays so that they would come down on the people on the sidewalks. It was becoming a party atmosphere. Before I took a side street, a group of firemen started performing a balancing act. One went up between two ladders as If he were on stilts. Then another used a third latter to extend the construction so it was then two firemen between 3 ladders. The last sighting I got was of 4 firemen between 5 ladders.
When I reached the riverfront, I walked south on the Malecon. I passed a children's area with rides and a playground, the botanical gardens, a cinema, and finally reached the Museo Anthropologico de Arte Contemporaneo. It is the major museum in the city. Although the quality of the ceramics didn't match those I had seen earlier in my first museum of the day, there was much more variety with many nice pieces.
As I entered the art area, something interesting happened. I saw a man and his wife. He looked directly at me, so I greeted him and turned away to look at the first painting--one of a man standing at a sink shaving. The subject in the painting looked like the man who I had just seen. I turned back toward him to check. Then I used pointing and hand motions to ask if it really was him. He shook his head in affirmation. Later, I saw him as the subject of another painting in the exhibit.
Just outside of the museum is Las Penas. It is a waterfront neighborhood along one old cobblestone street at the base of a mountain and the river. I wandered down the street enjoying the atmosphere created by the street and the colorful, large homes along it. Then, on my return, I started taking stairs up the mountainside through Cerro Santa Ana, a former barrio slum that is now a vibrant, colorful tourist area. At the top of the mountain, there is a lighthouse and a small church, but even better are the views of the city.
It was hot and I was tired. I stopped for an empanada and a juice, then I returned to the apartment. I stayed inside the rest of the day.
My first stop today was to see Plaza del Centenario. It is a beautiful plaza with a large monument honoring the heroes of the 9th of October. It was just a brief stop, because I was really headed for the Museo Presley Norton. Housed in a nice old mansion, it is a private museum with an archaeological collection of ceramics of unbelievable quality.
Walking back down the street named 9 de Octobre, I saw and heard firetrucks in the distance. It seemed to be a protest, but it could easily have been a celebration. Lined up in the middle of the street for at least 3 blocks were fire trucks. Their sirens were sounding. Then they started spraying water into the air and occasionally aiming the sprays so that they would come down on the people on the sidewalks. It was becoming a party atmosphere. Before I took a side street, a group of firemen started performing a balancing act. One went up between two ladders as If he were on stilts. Then another used a third latter to extend the construction so it was then two firemen between 3 ladders. The last sighting I got was of 4 firemen between 5 ladders.
When I reached the riverfront, I walked south on the Malecon. I passed a children's area with rides and a playground, the botanical gardens, a cinema, and finally reached the Museo Anthropologico de Arte Contemporaneo. It is the major museum in the city. Although the quality of the ceramics didn't match those I had seen earlier in my first museum of the day, there was much more variety with many nice pieces.
As I entered the art area, something interesting happened. I saw a man and his wife. He looked directly at me, so I greeted him and turned away to look at the first painting--one of a man standing at a sink shaving. The subject in the painting looked like the man who I had just seen. I turned back toward him to check. Then I used pointing and hand motions to ask if it really was him. He shook his head in affirmation. Later, I saw him as the subject of another painting in the exhibit.
Just outside of the museum is Las Penas. It is a waterfront neighborhood along one old cobblestone street at the base of a mountain and the river. I wandered down the street enjoying the atmosphere created by the street and the colorful, large homes along it. Then, on my return, I started taking stairs up the mountainside through Cerro Santa Ana, a former barrio slum that is now a vibrant, colorful tourist area. At the top of the mountain, there is a lighthouse and a small church, but even better are the views of the city.
It was hot and I was tired. I stopped for an empanada and a juice, then I returned to the apartment. I stayed inside the rest of the day.
Saturday, October 14, 2017
Shrunken Heads
Saturday, Oct. 14, 2017--Machala to Guayaquil
I am getting tired of the stress of travel which is compounded here in Ecuador by the added fear of danger when traveling. There are warnings from everyone about where NOT to go, what not to do, what to do, etc. And now that I have been moving every 1-3 days, these travel stresses are occurring more often. I am glad I only have 3 more travel days and will be coming home in two weeks.
The bus trip today didn't include as much stopping and starting. The stress was mainly after getting to Guayaquil which everyone says is more dangerous than other cities in Ecuador. I bought a charged-up card for the rapid bus transit to get me from the terminal to the center of the city. Everyone warns about the dangers of doing this with luggage, so I was gripping my suitcase tightly and looking back often to make see no one was trying to get into my backpack.
When I arrived in town, I was 1 1/2 hours early for checking into my apartment. So I continued to grip my luggage tightly. I eventually went into the Cathedral and found a seat to the side against a column. I wanted to read in my Kindle, but there is always the worry that someone will see it and try to grab it out of my hands. I wedged my suitcase between the pew and the column, threaded my left arm through the two straps of my backpack and between the two solid, raised arms of my suitcase, gripped my Kindle tightly as I read for an hour, and tried to be alert to whoever was near me.
No one showed up at 14:00 outside of the apartment building. I started to worry about not getting in. About 14:10, a woman living in the building and familiar with the fact that Apartment 601 is often rented to tourists let me inside the building. I had the WiFi password for the apartment, so I went up the elevator, stood outside the door, and connected to the WiFi. I was in the middle of writing a message to the owner in Spain when the agent showed up about 18 minutes late.
The rest of the day went smoothly although I remained tired from all the initial stress. I went to the City Museum sice it won't be open again after today until I leave the city. It has archaeological, natural history and historical exhibits. One of the best was a set of shrunken Heads from the Amazon region. Some were of men who lost wars with the tribe. Others were of westerners such as missionaries who entered the tribal areas. But there were also interesting maps, drawings, photographs, and diaramas of Guayaquil at different points in history. And there were wonderful bug collections capable of causing nightmares.
From there, I took a short stroll on part of the Malacon, the riverside walkway that is the centerpiece of renewal in downtown Guayaquil.
I was tired, so I decided to leave any more explanation for tomorrow. I stopped at a supermarket and bought some breakfast and dinner supplies before returning to the apartment for the rest of the day.
I am getting tired of the stress of travel which is compounded here in Ecuador by the added fear of danger when traveling. There are warnings from everyone about where NOT to go, what not to do, what to do, etc. And now that I have been moving every 1-3 days, these travel stresses are occurring more often. I am glad I only have 3 more travel days and will be coming home in two weeks.
The bus trip today didn't include as much stopping and starting. The stress was mainly after getting to Guayaquil which everyone says is more dangerous than other cities in Ecuador. I bought a charged-up card for the rapid bus transit to get me from the terminal to the center of the city. Everyone warns about the dangers of doing this with luggage, so I was gripping my suitcase tightly and looking back often to make see no one was trying to get into my backpack.
When I arrived in town, I was 1 1/2 hours early for checking into my apartment. So I continued to grip my luggage tightly. I eventually went into the Cathedral and found a seat to the side against a column. I wanted to read in my Kindle, but there is always the worry that someone will see it and try to grab it out of my hands. I wedged my suitcase between the pew and the column, threaded my left arm through the two straps of my backpack and between the two solid, raised arms of my suitcase, gripped my Kindle tightly as I read for an hour, and tried to be alert to whoever was near me.
No one showed up at 14:00 outside of the apartment building. I started to worry about not getting in. About 14:10, a woman living in the building and familiar with the fact that Apartment 601 is often rented to tourists let me inside the building. I had the WiFi password for the apartment, so I went up the elevator, stood outside the door, and connected to the WiFi. I was in the middle of writing a message to the owner in Spain when the agent showed up about 18 minutes late.
The rest of the day went smoothly although I remained tired from all the initial stress. I went to the City Museum sice it won't be open again after today until I leave the city. It has archaeological, natural history and historical exhibits. One of the best was a set of shrunken Heads from the Amazon region. Some were of men who lost wars with the tribe. Others were of westerners such as missionaries who entered the tribal areas. But there were also interesting maps, drawings, photographs, and diaramas of Guayaquil at different points in history. And there were wonderful bug collections capable of causing nightmares.
From there, I took a short stroll on part of the Malacon, the riverside walkway that is the centerpiece of renewal in downtown Guayaquil.
I was tired, so I decided to leave any more explanation for tomorrow. I stopped at a supermarket and bought some breakfast and dinner supplies before returning to the apartment for the rest of the day.
Friday, October 13, 2017
Tiring Day
Friday, Oct. 13, 2017--Loja to Machala
I knew it wouldn't be an easy day, but it was worse than I expected although not as bad as it could have been. The bus didn't arrive until departure time, but they still got us off only 5 minutes late. But 15 minutes later on the edge of town, it pulled off at a tire repair place. They removed a tire and either repaired or replaced it. That slowed us down 35 minutes for a trip that was already supposed to be 5 1/2 hours long!
We went through absolutely beautiful scenery. It was mountainous for hours of travel. Looking in the distance, I could see layers and layers of them. And unlike other areas of Ecuador where there are houses everywhere in the countryside, we passed miles at a time with nothing but the mountains to see. During one stretch there were trees thickly covered with bright yellow blossoms.
We were nearing Machala when we left the mountains and were on flat land. The driver was able to speed up some. But then he started slowing down. He stopped for a minute. A man across the aisle from me made a hand motion implying the question, "What's going on?" But then we took off again. But just a short distance further, he stopped again. We probably weren't more than 15-20 minutes from Machala. The driver raised the panel covering the tire that had been a problem, so I first thought it was low again. But then he took out some tools and began working inside under the panel where the gears are. Most of us stepped off the bus. He worked and worked. He poured some fluid that looked like what is used both for brakes and for transmissions. It ran out onto the pavement underneath. We were so close to town that I wondered why he didn't call the local office and ask them to send another bus or a van for us, since there were only 6 of us who hadn't already gotten off before then.
A local city bus headed for the center of Machala came by, and two of us took it. It stopped often, but it got me within half a block of my hotel. It was 17:45--7 hours after we had departed Loja for what was supposed to be a 5 1/2 hour trip!
My hotel is way over priced for what I an getting, but a trip all the way to Guayaquil would have taken another 3-4 hours. I am so tired that it is nice to have a stop.
I found the station for my bus I will take tomorrow and bought a ticket for departing at 9:00. Then I searched for a place to eat. The men here at the hotel recommended a burger place 4 blocks away. It was fine and was fast. They have also recommended a breakfast place between here and the station tomorrow, since breakfast isn't included in my over-priced room.
I am so tired that I will go to bed about 21:00. I am glad today is ending.
______
I stopped reading another book. It wasn't because it was a bad one this time. It was actually interesting and well written. However, the story takes place in Jamaica with the characters speaking in various forms of Jamaican English according to social or ethnic background. It was SLOW reading. I couldn't see myself slogging through over 600 pages of such language. The book, A Brief History of Seven Killings, A Novel by Marlon James, won the Man Booker Prize in 2015. But 15 pages was all I could take of trying to read in the dialects being used.
I knew it wouldn't be an easy day, but it was worse than I expected although not as bad as it could have been. The bus didn't arrive until departure time, but they still got us off only 5 minutes late. But 15 minutes later on the edge of town, it pulled off at a tire repair place. They removed a tire and either repaired or replaced it. That slowed us down 35 minutes for a trip that was already supposed to be 5 1/2 hours long!
We went through absolutely beautiful scenery. It was mountainous for hours of travel. Looking in the distance, I could see layers and layers of them. And unlike other areas of Ecuador where there are houses everywhere in the countryside, we passed miles at a time with nothing but the mountains to see. During one stretch there were trees thickly covered with bright yellow blossoms.
We were nearing Machala when we left the mountains and were on flat land. The driver was able to speed up some. But then he started slowing down. He stopped for a minute. A man across the aisle from me made a hand motion implying the question, "What's going on?" But then we took off again. But just a short distance further, he stopped again. We probably weren't more than 15-20 minutes from Machala. The driver raised the panel covering the tire that had been a problem, so I first thought it was low again. But then he took out some tools and began working inside under the panel where the gears are. Most of us stepped off the bus. He worked and worked. He poured some fluid that looked like what is used both for brakes and for transmissions. It ran out onto the pavement underneath. We were so close to town that I wondered why he didn't call the local office and ask them to send another bus or a van for us, since there were only 6 of us who hadn't already gotten off before then.
A local city bus headed for the center of Machala came by, and two of us took it. It stopped often, but it got me within half a block of my hotel. It was 17:45--7 hours after we had departed Loja for what was supposed to be a 5 1/2 hour trip!
My hotel is way over priced for what I an getting, but a trip all the way to Guayaquil would have taken another 3-4 hours. I am so tired that it is nice to have a stop.
I found the station for my bus I will take tomorrow and bought a ticket for departing at 9:00. Then I searched for a place to eat. The men here at the hotel recommended a burger place 4 blocks away. It was fine and was fast. They have also recommended a breakfast place between here and the station tomorrow, since breakfast isn't included in my over-priced room.
I am so tired that I will go to bed about 21:00. I am glad today is ending.
______
I stopped reading another book. It wasn't because it was a bad one this time. It was actually interesting and well written. However, the story takes place in Jamaica with the characters speaking in various forms of Jamaican English according to social or ethnic background. It was SLOW reading. I couldn't see myself slogging through over 600 pages of such language. The book, A Brief History of Seven Killings, A Novel by Marlon James, won the Man Booker Prize in 2015. But 15 pages was all I could take of trying to read in the dialects being used.
Thursday, October 12, 2017
Business and Pleasure in Loja
Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017--Loja
After a late breakfast at the hotel, I went to the bus station to buy my ticket for tomorrow. Unfortunately, the schedules had changed. The first departure was still at 7:45, but I would have to miss my breakfast and to leave for the station too early for that one. The second one at 8:55 would have been at the best time, but it had been changed to 10:45. After checking with both companies that cover the route, I chose the one at 10:45, because there was no other bus between it and the one that was too early. It means, however, that I probably won't arrive in Machala until sometime between 16:15 and 17:00.
From there I took a local bus across town to the National University campus. I wandered through the campus looking at buildings and the murals on them. Then I hiked down the highway to the Botanical Gardens which the university maintains behind the campus. Unfortunately, the hours have changed, and they now close for 3 hours starting at noon. It was too close to noon for me to want to pay and also too close for me to go far into the back area of the gardens and return without worrying about getting locked inside.
I returned to town and headed for the main plaza where I planned to visit a museum. But I found a sign there stating that the museum is closed to protect the items from the dust caused by the rebuilding of the pipes, streets and sidewalks!
I decided just to eat lunch and return to the hotel. In the hotel, I communicated with the owner of the apartment in Guayaquil and set a time for checking in there on Saturday. Then I researched bus schedules for my next stop and communicated with the owner about scheduling my arrival and check-in there. It isn't easy to plan these things when bus schedules aren't precise and when I have a locked phone that won't let me make local calls in another country.
Tonight I went to the free Thursday Cultural program the city sponsors every week. A military band played some songs. Then an American group of students performed a contemporary dance piece. There was more scheduled, but it was cold with a strong breeze. I left after about an hour to return to the hotel.
After a late breakfast at the hotel, I went to the bus station to buy my ticket for tomorrow. Unfortunately, the schedules had changed. The first departure was still at 7:45, but I would have to miss my breakfast and to leave for the station too early for that one. The second one at 8:55 would have been at the best time, but it had been changed to 10:45. After checking with both companies that cover the route, I chose the one at 10:45, because there was no other bus between it and the one that was too early. It means, however, that I probably won't arrive in Machala until sometime between 16:15 and 17:00.
From there I took a local bus across town to the National University campus. I wandered through the campus looking at buildings and the murals on them. Then I hiked down the highway to the Botanical Gardens which the university maintains behind the campus. Unfortunately, the hours have changed, and they now close for 3 hours starting at noon. It was too close to noon for me to want to pay and also too close for me to go far into the back area of the gardens and return without worrying about getting locked inside.
I returned to town and headed for the main plaza where I planned to visit a museum. But I found a sign there stating that the museum is closed to protect the items from the dust caused by the rebuilding of the pipes, streets and sidewalks!
I decided just to eat lunch and return to the hotel. In the hotel, I communicated with the owner of the apartment in Guayaquil and set a time for checking in there on Saturday. Then I researched bus schedules for my next stop and communicated with the owner about scheduling my arrival and check-in there. It isn't easy to plan these things when bus schedules aren't precise and when I have a locked phone that won't let me make local calls in another country.
Tonight I went to the free Thursday Cultural program the city sponsors every week. A military band played some songs. Then an American group of students performed a contemporary dance piece. There was more scheduled, but it was cold with a strong breeze. I left after about an hour to return to the hotel.
Wednesday, October 11, 2017
Loja
Wednesday, Oct. 11, 2017--Vilcabamba to Loja
There was no rush this morning. It is only about an hour and a half between Vilcabamba and Loja. I didn't go to breakfast until 9:00. There were only two tables of guests--me and two young couples who have been there every day I have. I relaxed and enjoyed the food as usual. They play very mellow new age music on the patio which enhances the atmosphere and the enjoyment of the food.
I read in the hammock until 10:30, then I headed down the hill to reception and checked out. I walked the short distance to the highway, crossed it, and waited for a bus. One came within 5 minutes.
Once we entered town here, I followed our route using GPS on the phone. I got off the bus where everyone else did who was going downtown. It was about 6 blocks from my hotel. Right at noon, I entered the lobby.
The Saraguro Hotel is not the best, but I had few choices here that weren't priced outrageously. The Saraguro is only $21 a night including taxes. The bed is comfortable, but the place hasn't been remodeled in maybe 25-30 years--since it was built, I would guess. It is in a good location, and I will only be here for 2 nights.
Loja is in a mess! Much of the center is torn up. Pipes, streets and sidewalks are all being replaced. And the project covers many blocks. But it is a nice town with a number of pleasant plazas. The best is San Sebastian which is surrounded by original colonial structures. After going to the tourist office I just explored aimlessly for a while.
By 14:30, I realized that I needed to find a place for lunch before it was too late. The Ecuadorian places were listing the same, simple dishes. Then, I saw a shawarma place. I ordered a mixed one--chicken, beef, and falafel which came with a small glass of cola. It was delicious, but was unfortunately small. After leaving, I had to stop at a bakery for a chocolate covered donut to get full.
What a disappointment I then had. The tourist office had given me a schedule of events that showed a symphony orchestra concert tonight. I went to the beautiful Teatro Bolivar to buy a ticket only to find that the performance was cancelled due to the guest artists not being able to perform!
I have been in my room since late afternoon and will not go out tonight. I finished reading Tenth of December, a collection of short stories by George Saunders which was a finalist for the National Book Award a few years ago. Most were interesting; a few were rather special. I gave the book 3 1/2 stars out of 5.
There was no rush this morning. It is only about an hour and a half between Vilcabamba and Loja. I didn't go to breakfast until 9:00. There were only two tables of guests--me and two young couples who have been there every day I have. I relaxed and enjoyed the food as usual. They play very mellow new age music on the patio which enhances the atmosphere and the enjoyment of the food.
I read in the hammock until 10:30, then I headed down the hill to reception and checked out. I walked the short distance to the highway, crossed it, and waited for a bus. One came within 5 minutes.
Once we entered town here, I followed our route using GPS on the phone. I got off the bus where everyone else did who was going downtown. It was about 6 blocks from my hotel. Right at noon, I entered the lobby.
The Saraguro Hotel is not the best, but I had few choices here that weren't priced outrageously. The Saraguro is only $21 a night including taxes. The bed is comfortable, but the place hasn't been remodeled in maybe 25-30 years--since it was built, I would guess. It is in a good location, and I will only be here for 2 nights.
Loja is in a mess! Much of the center is torn up. Pipes, streets and sidewalks are all being replaced. And the project covers many blocks. But it is a nice town with a number of pleasant plazas. The best is San Sebastian which is surrounded by original colonial structures. After going to the tourist office I just explored aimlessly for a while.
By 14:30, I realized that I needed to find a place for lunch before it was too late. The Ecuadorian places were listing the same, simple dishes. Then, I saw a shawarma place. I ordered a mixed one--chicken, beef, and falafel which came with a small glass of cola. It was delicious, but was unfortunately small. After leaving, I had to stop at a bakery for a chocolate covered donut to get full.
What a disappointment I then had. The tourist office had given me a schedule of events that showed a symphony orchestra concert tonight. I went to the beautiful Teatro Bolivar to buy a ticket only to find that the performance was cancelled due to the guest artists not being able to perform!
I have been in my room since late afternoon and will not go out tonight. I finished reading Tenth of December, a collection of short stories by George Saunders which was a finalist for the National Book Award a few years ago. Most were interesting; a few were rather special. I gave the book 3 1/2 stars out of 5.
Tuesday, October 10, 2017
Reservations Made for Remainder of Trip
Tuesday, Oct. 10, 2017--Vilcabamba
This morning I chose to have the oatmeal instead of the eggs for breakfast. It was good quality oatmeal (old fashioned style) with at least three kinds of fruits mixed into it. But I won't make that choice again. Combined with the bowl of fresh fruit, the glass of fruit juice, and the toast with butter and jam, it was just too many sweets for one meal.
After reading most of the morning, I decided I needed to work on making my final reservations for the trip. I needed places to stay in Puerto Lopez and in Quito. For the former, I chose a hotel. For the latter, I decided on a nice apartment in the old colonial center of town. It took about three hours, however, to go to websites, see what was available, read the reviews, and make a decision. What a relief to have it out of the way. And the apartment in Quito has an advantage that the check-out time isn't until 18:00. My flight departs 6 1/2 hours after that, so I can even have a nap before leaving for the airport.
My final trip into Vilcabamba was a bit of a bust after making the travel plans. It was too late to get lunch. I was hungry for a burger, but there was no place open for one. I wanted an ice cream cone, but they weren't making them today. I came back to the room and finished the fried potatoes from Cuenca, ate a boiled egg from Cuenca, and had some tortilla chips left over from Cuenca!
Vilcabamba is a nice place in a beautiful setting, but there is no way I could live here. Besides the language problem, it is too small, too remote, and has too little to do. It is unique, though. Many people have horses. Yesterday I saw an American expatriate couple having lunch with two horses tied up on the street; after eating, they got on their horses and rode off. It is a common sight to see westerners around town (either old retired ones or young hippies) and to hear them speaking English.
Tomorrow, I leave here. The resort has been a pleasant place to relax. Trip Advisor has named it among the Top 10 resorts in all of South America each of the last 6 years. But it is time to start heading north again. I will still be south of the equator for the next 10 days, though. Only my last stop in Quito will be above it.
This morning I chose to have the oatmeal instead of the eggs for breakfast. It was good quality oatmeal (old fashioned style) with at least three kinds of fruits mixed into it. But I won't make that choice again. Combined with the bowl of fresh fruit, the glass of fruit juice, and the toast with butter and jam, it was just too many sweets for one meal.
After reading most of the morning, I decided I needed to work on making my final reservations for the trip. I needed places to stay in Puerto Lopez and in Quito. For the former, I chose a hotel. For the latter, I decided on a nice apartment in the old colonial center of town. It took about three hours, however, to go to websites, see what was available, read the reviews, and make a decision. What a relief to have it out of the way. And the apartment in Quito has an advantage that the check-out time isn't until 18:00. My flight departs 6 1/2 hours after that, so I can even have a nap before leaving for the airport.
My final trip into Vilcabamba was a bit of a bust after making the travel plans. It was too late to get lunch. I was hungry for a burger, but there was no place open for one. I wanted an ice cream cone, but they weren't making them today. I came back to the room and finished the fried potatoes from Cuenca, ate a boiled egg from Cuenca, and had some tortilla chips left over from Cuenca!
Vilcabamba is a nice place in a beautiful setting, but there is no way I could live here. Besides the language problem, it is too small, too remote, and has too little to do. It is unique, though. Many people have horses. Yesterday I saw an American expatriate couple having lunch with two horses tied up on the street; after eating, they got on their horses and rode off. It is a common sight to see westerners around town (either old retired ones or young hippies) and to hear them speaking English.
Tomorrow, I leave here. The resort has been a pleasant place to relax. Trip Advisor has named it among the Top 10 resorts in all of South America each of the last 6 years. But it is time to start heading north again. I will still be south of the equator for the next 10 days, though. Only my last stop in Quito will be above it.
Monday, October 09, 2017
Beautiful, Lazy Day
Monday, Oct. 8, 2017--Vilcabamba
After being so tired and sleepy, I went to bed last night at 19:30. Then I awoke at 2:00 and couldn't go back to sleep. I opened my Kindle and read for 30-45 minutes. Then, I went back to sleep and slept until 7:30. The result is that I feel great and rested today.
I delayed breakfast until 9:30 by reading the news and my email before bathing. As had been reported in reviews, the breakfast was good. Unlimited coffee, a choice between eggs and oatmeal, mixed fruit salad, freshly made brown bread, butter, jam, and a glass of fresh juice. My only complaint is that the bread lacked something to increase its flavor--maybe some sugar, since being healthy is such an important aspect of life here. Anyway, I sat at one of the outdoor tables looking through the flowery jungle gardens of the resort to the distant mountains. And after eating, I had another cup of coffee there as I sat and read.
Back by the room, I climbed into the hammock with a view of the valley and the town below (because of the extra height), and finished reading The Handmaid's Tale by Margaret Atwood. Although the writing was rather simple (and, therefore, very easy to read), I thoroughly enjoyed the story. It really resonated with me due to a belief that I have had for some time--that the Religious Right will not be satisfied until they can force everyone to live the way they tell them to live. The irony of this is that it would create an America that would be the equivalent of a country that the Religious Right considers to be one of the worst in the world--Iran. An America where everyone had to live their lives the way the Religious Right believe would be an America without freedom. It would be a theocracy--the Christian Republic of America (and just as bad as the Islamic Republic of Iran for its citizens). The book is about a period in time when such an event has happened in the US and their rule includes a few adjustments in what the Bible says to accommodate how the Religious Right want to control people in ways not really specified the way they would prefer. I gave the book 4 stars out of 5.
Just before noon, I headed into town. Although I wore shorts, I didn't think to take my cap. The sun was so bright that I had to shade my forehead and nose with my hand. It was more quiet than yesterday, yet there were still people milling around.
After wandering for a while, I sat in the shade at the main plaza. I watched people for some time, then I started a new book of short stories. Eventually, I took a hike out of town into the edge of the mountains.
I returned to the plaza after that and read another short story. Then, at 14:30, I went to a restaurant for lunch. I wasn't really hungry enough, but I knew that they might stop serving soon. My main dish was pollo estafado, a chicken breast with a nice sauce on it.
Returning back to Madre Tierra, I saw a big fire on an opposite mountain. I could see at least one house on fire, and the lady here said that there is also a hotel within the area of the smoke. I am in the hammock facing the area now, and there is only smoke remaining. The flames have been extinguished. The lady said there had been a similar fire on another mountain last week due to the dryness combined with windy conditions.
It is late afternoon now. My stomach is stuffed. I will stay on the patio and in my room for the rest of the evening. Some clouds are building up; it would be nice to have a thunderstorm and watch it. Maybe I will watch a Netflix film instead.
After being so tired and sleepy, I went to bed last night at 19:30. Then I awoke at 2:00 and couldn't go back to sleep. I opened my Kindle and read for 30-45 minutes. Then, I went back to sleep and slept until 7:30. The result is that I feel great and rested today.
I delayed breakfast until 9:30 by reading the news and my email before bathing. As had been reported in reviews, the breakfast was good. Unlimited coffee, a choice between eggs and oatmeal, mixed fruit salad, freshly made brown bread, butter, jam, and a glass of fresh juice. My only complaint is that the bread lacked something to increase its flavor--maybe some sugar, since being healthy is such an important aspect of life here. Anyway, I sat at one of the outdoor tables looking through the flowery jungle gardens of the resort to the distant mountains. And after eating, I had another cup of coffee there as I sat and read.
Back by the room, I climbed into the hammock with a view of the valley and the town below (because of the extra height), and finished reading The Handmaid's Tale by Margaret Atwood. Although the writing was rather simple (and, therefore, very easy to read), I thoroughly enjoyed the story. It really resonated with me due to a belief that I have had for some time--that the Religious Right will not be satisfied until they can force everyone to live the way they tell them to live. The irony of this is that it would create an America that would be the equivalent of a country that the Religious Right considers to be one of the worst in the world--Iran. An America where everyone had to live their lives the way the Religious Right believe would be an America without freedom. It would be a theocracy--the Christian Republic of America (and just as bad as the Islamic Republic of Iran for its citizens). The book is about a period in time when such an event has happened in the US and their rule includes a few adjustments in what the Bible says to accommodate how the Religious Right want to control people in ways not really specified the way they would prefer. I gave the book 4 stars out of 5.
Just before noon, I headed into town. Although I wore shorts, I didn't think to take my cap. The sun was so bright that I had to shade my forehead and nose with my hand. It was more quiet than yesterday, yet there were still people milling around.
After wandering for a while, I sat in the shade at the main plaza. I watched people for some time, then I started a new book of short stories. Eventually, I took a hike out of town into the edge of the mountains.
I returned to the plaza after that and read another short story. Then, at 14:30, I went to a restaurant for lunch. I wasn't really hungry enough, but I knew that they might stop serving soon. My main dish was pollo estafado, a chicken breast with a nice sauce on it.
Returning back to Madre Tierra, I saw a big fire on an opposite mountain. I could see at least one house on fire, and the lady here said that there is also a hotel within the area of the smoke. I am in the hammock facing the area now, and there is only smoke remaining. The flames have been extinguished. The lady said there had been a similar fire on another mountain last week due to the dryness combined with windy conditions.
It is late afternoon now. My stomach is stuffed. I will stay on the patio and in my room for the rest of the evening. Some clouds are building up; it would be nice to have a thunderstorm and watch it. Maybe I will watch a Netflix film instead.
Sunday, October 08, 2017
Traveling to Vilcabamba
Sunday, Oct. 7, 2017--Cuenca to Vilcabamba
Last night I went to bed at 21:00. I awoke this morning at 4:00 and couldn't go back to sleep, so I got out of bed at 4:20. That has resulted in a long, tiring day.
I walked (20 minutes) to the bus station. I arrived at 7:10 and got a ticket for the 7:45 bus to Loja. The trip took 4 hours 15 minutes and went through beautiful mountain scenery. About half the time, however, I was nodding off.
Within 5 minutes of arriving in Loja, I had bought a ticket and was on a bus about to leave for Vilcabamba--another 1 1/4 hours away. Again, the mountain scenery was striking. Plus, this area is a hotspot for American retirees to live. So it was interesting to see some of the really nice homes and estates some of them have built.
I am staying at the Madre Tierra Resort and Spa which is on a hillside about a mile (2 km) out of town. The bus dropped me at the turnoff road, and I walked from there to the resort. Like almost everything in this town, it has a new age vibe to it. It has a 3-level pool and a spa building with a complete list of services. It has a nice outdoor restaurant with its accompanying outdoor kitchen (rated 3rd best of almost 50 restaurants in town). My room includes breakfast there each morning. And just outside my room is a covered patio with a table and chairs and a hammock.
After resting while reading on the patio, I walked into town. I wasn't sure how it would be on a Sunday. First, I came to a park where two men's volleyball games (with very high nets) were occurring with spectators watching. Then, I couldn't believe the crowds when I came to the main square. There were so many people that some were sitting on steps and others were just standing.
Almost everyone was having an ice cream cone. They were getting them from a corner store that had two long lines--one at the front door and the other at a side window. They had soft serve machines at both locations, but this was not typical soft serve ice cream. The popular flavor was a greenish-yellow sherbet made from a local fruit. I got one which was so good that I could have had 2-3 of them.
It is definitely a unique town. Although small like a village, it has a French bakery, a falafel restaurant, a sushi place, a yoga center, a man giving back massages on the street, a Belgian chocolate shop, lots of artisan shops with products made buy the owners, etc.
I will go to bed early tonight. I feel exhausted from the trip and from the lack of sleep last night. I am here for 2 more days (3 nights), so this is going to be a place to be lazy and relax.
Last night I went to bed at 21:00. I awoke this morning at 4:00 and couldn't go back to sleep, so I got out of bed at 4:20. That has resulted in a long, tiring day.
I walked (20 minutes) to the bus station. I arrived at 7:10 and got a ticket for the 7:45 bus to Loja. The trip took 4 hours 15 minutes and went through beautiful mountain scenery. About half the time, however, I was nodding off.
Within 5 minutes of arriving in Loja, I had bought a ticket and was on a bus about to leave for Vilcabamba--another 1 1/4 hours away. Again, the mountain scenery was striking. Plus, this area is a hotspot for American retirees to live. So it was interesting to see some of the really nice homes and estates some of them have built.
I am staying at the Madre Tierra Resort and Spa which is on a hillside about a mile (2 km) out of town. The bus dropped me at the turnoff road, and I walked from there to the resort. Like almost everything in this town, it has a new age vibe to it. It has a 3-level pool and a spa building with a complete list of services. It has a nice outdoor restaurant with its accompanying outdoor kitchen (rated 3rd best of almost 50 restaurants in town). My room includes breakfast there each morning. And just outside my room is a covered patio with a table and chairs and a hammock.
After resting while reading on the patio, I walked into town. I wasn't sure how it would be on a Sunday. First, I came to a park where two men's volleyball games (with very high nets) were occurring with spectators watching. Then, I couldn't believe the crowds when I came to the main square. There were so many people that some were sitting on steps and others were just standing.
Almost everyone was having an ice cream cone. They were getting them from a corner store that had two long lines--one at the front door and the other at a side window. They had soft serve machines at both locations, but this was not typical soft serve ice cream. The popular flavor was a greenish-yellow sherbet made from a local fruit. I got one which was so good that I could have had 2-3 of them.
It is definitely a unique town. Although small like a village, it has a French bakery, a falafel restaurant, a sushi place, a yoga center, a man giving back massages on the street, a Belgian chocolate shop, lots of artisan shops with products made buy the owners, etc.
I will go to bed early tonight. I feel exhausted from the trip and from the lack of sleep last night. I am here for 2 more days (3 nights), so this is going to be a place to be lazy and relax.
Saturday, October 07, 2017
Last Day in Cuenca
Friday and Saturday, Oct. 6 and 7, 2017--Cuenca
Friday was just like Wednesday and Thursday. The morning was nice, but rains came starting around 14:00. By then, I had done enough for the day and just stayed inside enjoying my wonderful apartment here.
I first walked far to the South just beyond all the colonial buildings to see the main museum of Cuenca--the Pumapungo. It has some art and a money connection, but the main exhibits are a series of ethnographic sections representing the indigenous groups of various sections of Ecuador. Included within each were examples of clothing, tools (including hunting and/or fishing tools), jewelry, huts with typical furnishings, pottery, etc. It was really interesting, and there were some really beautiful things done with colorful feathers.
Behind the museum are some Inca ruins and a nice botanical garden. The ruins consist of foundations and a pyramid with views down inside where there were passages.
The botanical gardens were small, but nice and beautiful. The best feature was a birdhouse with colorful native birds. It had large sections so that they didn't seem crowded. And there were as many as 6-8 birds of the same kind so that they didn't appear to be bored or lonely. Among the trees of the gardens, there were several llamas.
From there, I walked along the river path back to the northern side of town until I reached the campus of the University of Cuenca. There were banners proclaiming the 150th anniversary of it. Students were everywhere, so it was fun to observe them as I wandered through seeing the buildings and noting what programs we're in each.
By then, it was about 13:30 and clouds we're building. I stopped at a bakery to buy some buns for tuna sandwiches for dinner and got a pastry to have with tea in the afternoon.
Both Friday and Saturday, I made a big breakfast that I sometimes make at apartments in Europe. I had bought some small potatoes and boiled them until they were tender. I sliced them into rounds and fried them until light brown and crispy. Then I fried chunks of onion. Finally, I fried two eggs. It makes a filling and tasty meal.
Saturday morning, I visited one more museum--the Remigio Crespo Toral Museum. It is operated by the city, but it was the home of the man in the name and his family. It is large and elegant. The family was very wealthy, and there are exhibits of things they had bought on trips to Europe. The women in the family dressed very stylishly, and the exhibits included recreations of dresses they had worn.
I also just wandered the streets for a while. There was more excitement around town due to it being a weekend. The rain, although also forecasted for this afternoon never came. Still, I stayed inside my apartment. I read, I cooked, I finalized travel plans related to my next 4 stops, etc.
Tomorrow I head further south. I will be near the border with Peru. The towns somewhat of the Santa Fe of Ecuador with a hippie/new age vibe.
Friday was just like Wednesday and Thursday. The morning was nice, but rains came starting around 14:00. By then, I had done enough for the day and just stayed inside enjoying my wonderful apartment here.
I first walked far to the South just beyond all the colonial buildings to see the main museum of Cuenca--the Pumapungo. It has some art and a money connection, but the main exhibits are a series of ethnographic sections representing the indigenous groups of various sections of Ecuador. Included within each were examples of clothing, tools (including hunting and/or fishing tools), jewelry, huts with typical furnishings, pottery, etc. It was really interesting, and there were some really beautiful things done with colorful feathers.
Behind the museum are some Inca ruins and a nice botanical garden. The ruins consist of foundations and a pyramid with views down inside where there were passages.
The botanical gardens were small, but nice and beautiful. The best feature was a birdhouse with colorful native birds. It had large sections so that they didn't seem crowded. And there were as many as 6-8 birds of the same kind so that they didn't appear to be bored or lonely. Among the trees of the gardens, there were several llamas.
From there, I walked along the river path back to the northern side of town until I reached the campus of the University of Cuenca. There were banners proclaiming the 150th anniversary of it. Students were everywhere, so it was fun to observe them as I wandered through seeing the buildings and noting what programs we're in each.
By then, it was about 13:30 and clouds we're building. I stopped at a bakery to buy some buns for tuna sandwiches for dinner and got a pastry to have with tea in the afternoon.
Both Friday and Saturday, I made a big breakfast that I sometimes make at apartments in Europe. I had bought some small potatoes and boiled them until they were tender. I sliced them into rounds and fried them until light brown and crispy. Then I fried chunks of onion. Finally, I fried two eggs. It makes a filling and tasty meal.
Saturday morning, I visited one more museum--the Remigio Crespo Toral Museum. It is operated by the city, but it was the home of the man in the name and his family. It is large and elegant. The family was very wealthy, and there are exhibits of things they had bought on trips to Europe. The women in the family dressed very stylishly, and the exhibits included recreations of dresses they had worn.
I also just wandered the streets for a while. There was more excitement around town due to it being a weekend. The rain, although also forecasted for this afternoon never came. Still, I stayed inside my apartment. I read, I cooked, I finalized travel plans related to my next 4 stops, etc.
Tomorrow I head further south. I will be near the border with Peru. The towns somewhat of the Santa Fe of Ecuador with a hippie/new age vibe.
Thursday, October 05, 2017
Cuenca, World Heritage City
Wednesday and Thursday, Oct. 4 and 5, 2017--Cuenca
A desire to see Cuenca for many years was a major reason for planning this trip. The entire old town which covers many blocks has been declared a World Heritage Site. Wednesday morning I decided just to wander aimlessly to get a general feel for the city. I passed the flower market around the corner from my apartment, Parque Calderon (the main plaza) with its two cathedrals (the old now a museum and the new), two different markets, lots of nice colonial buildings and a number of other churches. I bought a big slice of pizza for a dollar, and I stopped at a grocery store to buy some basics for the apartment--eggs, granola, milk, tuna, pasta, pasta sauce, etc.
It began to drizzle just as I was returning home around 13:30. By 14:00, there was heavy rain, and rain continued off and on for the rest of the day. Therefore, I stayed inside my wonderful apartment here, reading, watching a film, researching places to stay, making a reservation, etc., for the rest of the day.
Thursday started with a bank run (almost literally). I was getting low on dollars and needed to use an ATM. All the guidebooks warn to make a withdrawal and quickly leave. I stuffed my new money into my hidden rear pocket I sewed for myself years ago and always pin inside the back of my pants and walked quickly home where I stashed all but two $10 bills away before going back out.
Today, I took my camera with plans to see specific sights. I started with the New Cathedral which is probably the nicest church I have seen on this trip. It has lots of marble and a beautiful silver alter with a silver canopy. Then I took photos of Parque de Calderon outside and of the colonial buildings surrounding it. Following that, I walked down Simon Bolivar Street, one of the fanciest in town taking more photos of special buildings.
That brought me to a pretty square with the Museo de Arte Moderno. Unfortunately, it had no exhibits open, but I was encouraged to wander through to see the sculpture gardens. From there, I headed for an old factory where they made Panama hats. Today it is a museum, has a few people making hats as a demonstration, and has a couple of shops selling hats.
I wandered back home about 13:00 and had a bowl of granola. By 14:00 it was raining like yesterday. I read and made some phone calls. By 16:00 the sun was out again, so I went across the river to a modern part of town. At a supermarket there, I bought some onions, potatoes, chips, and beers.
My apartment has a nice rooftop deck. After having pasta for dinner, I took a beer and some chips up there. I plugged in the twinkle lights, and sat looking at the lighted church tower across the plaza. It was very quiet, so I walked over to the wall and looked down. Although it was only 20:00, there was hardly anyone out walking.
Notes:
1) Have you ever wondered what happened to all the 50 cents pieces that used to be in circulation and the gold colored dollar coins that were minted but never became popular? They are all here in Ecuador and in daily use.
2) A rare event happened yesterday. I gave up on a book I was reading. I had gotten 88 pages into it (19 percent of the way through it) and I just couldn't continue. Although the book had been a finalist for the National Book Award, it had major problems. It was too technical in terms related to programming and encryption for computer games, it was already outdated even though the book is only about 4+5 years old, it was written with a major emphasis on being witty seemingly to impress the reader, it was too complicated for me to want to try to keep up with it, and there was little, if any, plot. It falls into a category of a few National Book Award nominees that I call books that could only have been nominated because of the author either sleeping with several judges or paying them off. The book is Bleeding Edge by Thomas Pynchon. I give it 1 star out of 5.
A desire to see Cuenca for many years was a major reason for planning this trip. The entire old town which covers many blocks has been declared a World Heritage Site. Wednesday morning I decided just to wander aimlessly to get a general feel for the city. I passed the flower market around the corner from my apartment, Parque Calderon (the main plaza) with its two cathedrals (the old now a museum and the new), two different markets, lots of nice colonial buildings and a number of other churches. I bought a big slice of pizza for a dollar, and I stopped at a grocery store to buy some basics for the apartment--eggs, granola, milk, tuna, pasta, pasta sauce, etc.
It began to drizzle just as I was returning home around 13:30. By 14:00, there was heavy rain, and rain continued off and on for the rest of the day. Therefore, I stayed inside my wonderful apartment here, reading, watching a film, researching places to stay, making a reservation, etc., for the rest of the day.
Thursday started with a bank run (almost literally). I was getting low on dollars and needed to use an ATM. All the guidebooks warn to make a withdrawal and quickly leave. I stuffed my new money into my hidden rear pocket I sewed for myself years ago and always pin inside the back of my pants and walked quickly home where I stashed all but two $10 bills away before going back out.
Today, I took my camera with plans to see specific sights. I started with the New Cathedral which is probably the nicest church I have seen on this trip. It has lots of marble and a beautiful silver alter with a silver canopy. Then I took photos of Parque de Calderon outside and of the colonial buildings surrounding it. Following that, I walked down Simon Bolivar Street, one of the fanciest in town taking more photos of special buildings.
That brought me to a pretty square with the Museo de Arte Moderno. Unfortunately, it had no exhibits open, but I was encouraged to wander through to see the sculpture gardens. From there, I headed for an old factory where they made Panama hats. Today it is a museum, has a few people making hats as a demonstration, and has a couple of shops selling hats.
I wandered back home about 13:00 and had a bowl of granola. By 14:00 it was raining like yesterday. I read and made some phone calls. By 16:00 the sun was out again, so I went across the river to a modern part of town. At a supermarket there, I bought some onions, potatoes, chips, and beers.
My apartment has a nice rooftop deck. After having pasta for dinner, I took a beer and some chips up there. I plugged in the twinkle lights, and sat looking at the lighted church tower across the plaza. It was very quiet, so I walked over to the wall and looked down. Although it was only 20:00, there was hardly anyone out walking.
Notes:
1) Have you ever wondered what happened to all the 50 cents pieces that used to be in circulation and the gold colored dollar coins that were minted but never became popular? They are all here in Ecuador and in daily use.
2) A rare event happened yesterday. I gave up on a book I was reading. I had gotten 88 pages into it (19 percent of the way through it) and I just couldn't continue. Although the book had been a finalist for the National Book Award, it had major problems. It was too technical in terms related to programming and encryption for computer games, it was already outdated even though the book is only about 4+5 years old, it was written with a major emphasis on being witty seemingly to impress the reader, it was too complicated for me to want to try to keep up with it, and there was little, if any, plot. It falls into a category of a few National Book Award nominees that I call books that could only have been nominated because of the author either sleeping with several judges or paying them off. The book is Bleeding Edge by Thomas Pynchon. I give it 1 star out of 5.
Tuesday, October 03, 2017
The Devil's Nose Train
Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2017--Riobamba to Cuenca Via Alausi
It was another long travel day. Up at 5:45, I took a bus at 7:00 for Alausi where tourists take the Devil's Nose Train. I had about 1 1/2 hours before departure on the train, so I left my suitcase in storage at the station and ate breakfast. Then I checked at both the tourist office and the station about where to catch the first two buses leaving for Cuenca after the train trip. At both, I was told that I would have to hike to the upper highway, wait at an intersection and wave down the first bus operated by Sucre. For the second bus operated by Patria, I was told I could go to the station on the much lower middle road.
The Devil's Nose Train is considered to be an engineering marvel. It has to descend the walls of a steep canyon so rapidly that there are two locations where it was impossible to have curves. The solution was to create a Z with the tracks. When the train comes to the upper point on the Z, it stops and begins to back down the middle portion of the Z. At the bottom point, the train starts going forward again.
The trip otherwise was similar, but much shorter than the one I took from Ibarra. We went along a beautiful canyon with great views. There were dancers to perform for us at the end station. I am glad I made the trip, but I think the one from Ibarra to Salinas is a better one overall.
I found a great restaurant for lunch after the train trip. They served the best lunch I have had in either country of my present travels. The soup was fresh with a big piece of lean pork in it along with potatoes, beans, slices of cauliflower, etc. The main plate had a tender, thin slice of steak, yellow rice with a sprinkling of lentils cooked in it, and a salad with tomatoes, pickled onions, and pickled beans. It came with a glass of passion fruit juice and a bowl of a creamy salsa.
I decided to take the later bus to Cuenca because it was easier to reach the stop and because I could wait at the station. But 10 minutes after I bought my ticket, the earlier bus stopped across the street!! Everyone had been wrong about its route. I could have left about 50 minutes earlier if I had known.
The owner of my apartment here in Cuenca picked me up at the bus station when I arrived at 19:00. He picks up all his renters from the station or the airport. I'm glad, because it was dark and had started to rain just as we arrived.
The apartment is in the center of the old town which is a World Heritage Site. The main plaza is just two blocks away. And the apartment is very nice--modern with big rooms and stylishly furnished. It also has a rooftop deck with twinkle lights and a view over the old town. I probably won't want to leave when the time comes! Tonight, however, I am tired and ready to sleep.
It was another long travel day. Up at 5:45, I took a bus at 7:00 for Alausi where tourists take the Devil's Nose Train. I had about 1 1/2 hours before departure on the train, so I left my suitcase in storage at the station and ate breakfast. Then I checked at both the tourist office and the station about where to catch the first two buses leaving for Cuenca after the train trip. At both, I was told that I would have to hike to the upper highway, wait at an intersection and wave down the first bus operated by Sucre. For the second bus operated by Patria, I was told I could go to the station on the much lower middle road.
The Devil's Nose Train is considered to be an engineering marvel. It has to descend the walls of a steep canyon so rapidly that there are two locations where it was impossible to have curves. The solution was to create a Z with the tracks. When the train comes to the upper point on the Z, it stops and begins to back down the middle portion of the Z. At the bottom point, the train starts going forward again.
The trip otherwise was similar, but much shorter than the one I took from Ibarra. We went along a beautiful canyon with great views. There were dancers to perform for us at the end station. I am glad I made the trip, but I think the one from Ibarra to Salinas is a better one overall.
I found a great restaurant for lunch after the train trip. They served the best lunch I have had in either country of my present travels. The soup was fresh with a big piece of lean pork in it along with potatoes, beans, slices of cauliflower, etc. The main plate had a tender, thin slice of steak, yellow rice with a sprinkling of lentils cooked in it, and a salad with tomatoes, pickled onions, and pickled beans. It came with a glass of passion fruit juice and a bowl of a creamy salsa.
I decided to take the later bus to Cuenca because it was easier to reach the stop and because I could wait at the station. But 10 minutes after I bought my ticket, the earlier bus stopped across the street!! Everyone had been wrong about its route. I could have left about 50 minutes earlier if I had known.
The owner of my apartment here in Cuenca picked me up at the bus station when I arrived at 19:00. He picks up all his renters from the station or the airport. I'm glad, because it was dark and had started to rain just as we arrived.
The apartment is in the center of the old town which is a World Heritage Site. The main plaza is just two blocks away. And the apartment is very nice--modern with big rooms and stylishly furnished. It also has a rooftop deck with twinkle lights and a view over the old town. I probably won't want to leave when the time comes! Tonight, however, I am tired and ready to sleep.
Monday, October 02, 2017
Riobamba and Side Trip to Guano
Monday, Oct. 2, 2017--Riobamba and Guano
Today was a day for wandering. Heading out about 9:00, I was searching for a place for breakfast. Most cities here are filled with small places offering several choices for breakfast ranging in price from $1.50 (continental) to $3.00 (complete including coffee or chocolate and a glass of juice). I walked blocks without finding such a place. I did find some unreasonably expensive places for tourists near the train station. A few minutes later near the main plaza, however, I found a churros place. I got an order of 4 warm churros and a cup of hot chocolate. It was a nice change from what I have been eating.
My first stop, after taking photos of some of the nice plazas and buildings in town, was the City Museum. I have always liked such museums, especially when they have old photos showing how the town has looked over time. This one had those, some local art, a display of a fancy living room and a home office/library from 100 years ago, etc. But it also had two very interesting special exhibits. One was of tops made and worn by area indigenous women. The other was miniatures of carnival groups in costume that had actually performed in the local festival. Above each display of miniatures was a photo of the actual group.
Another museum in town that was supposed to be open on Mondays was closed. So I decided to take bus to Guano, a small town in the foothills that is known for leatherwork, for weavings, and for wood carvings. The best part of the trip proved to be the almost totally clear sightings of two of the area volcanoes that are snowcapped. The town was nice, too. I tried to find a place for lunch and had the same problem as this morning. Either this area doesn't have small places, or they are here and just don't open on Mondays.
Back in my room, my landlord came out to invite me for a bowl of soup. It proved to be for an entire lunch with his whole family. Besides a delicious potato/spinach soup, we had lamb with the tastiest sauce i have had on the whole trip, rice, and a small tomato/pickled radish salad.
Late in the afternoon I walked to the bus station to double check the schedule I had found online for tomorrow. I tried to buy my ticket, but the lady said that I would pay on the bus. But everything is set for my travels tomorrow via bus, train, and bus again.
Today was a day for wandering. Heading out about 9:00, I was searching for a place for breakfast. Most cities here are filled with small places offering several choices for breakfast ranging in price from $1.50 (continental) to $3.00 (complete including coffee or chocolate and a glass of juice). I walked blocks without finding such a place. I did find some unreasonably expensive places for tourists near the train station. A few minutes later near the main plaza, however, I found a churros place. I got an order of 4 warm churros and a cup of hot chocolate. It was a nice change from what I have been eating.
My first stop, after taking photos of some of the nice plazas and buildings in town, was the City Museum. I have always liked such museums, especially when they have old photos showing how the town has looked over time. This one had those, some local art, a display of a fancy living room and a home office/library from 100 years ago, etc. But it also had two very interesting special exhibits. One was of tops made and worn by area indigenous women. The other was miniatures of carnival groups in costume that had actually performed in the local festival. Above each display of miniatures was a photo of the actual group.
Another museum in town that was supposed to be open on Mondays was closed. So I decided to take bus to Guano, a small town in the foothills that is known for leatherwork, for weavings, and for wood carvings. The best part of the trip proved to be the almost totally clear sightings of two of the area volcanoes that are snowcapped. The town was nice, too. I tried to find a place for lunch and had the same problem as this morning. Either this area doesn't have small places, or they are here and just don't open on Mondays.
Back in my room, my landlord came out to invite me for a bowl of soup. It proved to be for an entire lunch with his whole family. Besides a delicious potato/spinach soup, we had lamb with the tastiest sauce i have had on the whole trip, rice, and a small tomato/pickled radish salad.
Late in the afternoon I walked to the bus station to double check the schedule I had found online for tomorrow. I tried to buy my ticket, but the lady said that I would pay on the bus. But everything is set for my travels tomorrow via bus, train, and bus again.
Guinea Pigs Roasted on a Spit
Saturday Night and Sunday, Sept. 30/Oct.1, 2017--Banos and Riobamba
I did go out after the rain Saturday night. Lots was happening in town. In front of the Cathedral there was what seemed to be an open-air mass on a stage beside a float with the typical Catholic dressed up doll. At the other main plaza, a group was performing a play in pantomime that seemed to be for children.
Sidewalks were crowded with people, so I walked around just watching. As I passed the front of the market, I saw something I had read about but had not observed yet. Guinea pigs are a popular food item in Ecuador and southern Colombia. I have seen them listed on menus in several towns. But here, two women were roasting whole ones on spits over charcoal. They were long and skinny with little heads. They must be popular, because both women already had about 10 each cooked and ready to sell.
The bus trip Sunday morning to Riobamba took only about 1 1/2 hours. However, as is common in Ecuador for buses continuing to other destinations, the driver stopped at a major intersection to let us off instead of driving into town to the terminal. It is times like this when mobile phones with GPS really are helpful. I had no idea where I was until I could pull up my position on the map app of the phone. Then I knew exactly what direction to go. I was about 1 1/2 miles (2.5 km) from my apartment.
This isn't really an apartment, but I knew that. It has no kitchen. But it has a private outside entrance and its own bath, so I can come and go without disturbing anyone, and it is only $12 per night and located right on the edge of the center of town but on a rather quiet residential street.
My landlord and his wife invited me inside their home for a fresh glass of orange-lime juice. They are nice and interesting young people. Then they, on the way to pick up their twins, dropped me off at the train station.
One of the reasons for stopping in Riobamba was to try to buy an advance ticket for the Devil's Nose train, one of the world's most dramatic train rides. I was able to get my ticket for Tuesday. I will travel by bus from here to Alausi, take the 2 1/2 hour round-trip train ride from there, then catch another bus onward to Cuenca, my next city to visit.
After getting my ticket, I wandered around the center of Riobamba. I found two markets, several plazas, etc. The most interesting experience was coming across a funeral procession. It was old-world style with everyone marching down a neighborhood street near where I am staying. In front was a band playing dirges. Next were children carrying all the flower arrangements. Then came men carrying the casket on their shoulders. Last was the crowd of mourners dressed in black. They were headed toward a nearby church from either a funeral home our the house of the deceased.
In the evening, I finished reading The Lowands by Jhumpa Lahiri. She is one of my favorite writers. It is seldom that I can enjoy reading multiple books by the same author, but I have read all but one of her books now. This one is very well written with a fascinating storyline. I gave it 4 stars out of 5.
I did go out after the rain Saturday night. Lots was happening in town. In front of the Cathedral there was what seemed to be an open-air mass on a stage beside a float with the typical Catholic dressed up doll. At the other main plaza, a group was performing a play in pantomime that seemed to be for children.
Sidewalks were crowded with people, so I walked around just watching. As I passed the front of the market, I saw something I had read about but had not observed yet. Guinea pigs are a popular food item in Ecuador and southern Colombia. I have seen them listed on menus in several towns. But here, two women were roasting whole ones on spits over charcoal. They were long and skinny with little heads. They must be popular, because both women already had about 10 each cooked and ready to sell.
The bus trip Sunday morning to Riobamba took only about 1 1/2 hours. However, as is common in Ecuador for buses continuing to other destinations, the driver stopped at a major intersection to let us off instead of driving into town to the terminal. It is times like this when mobile phones with GPS really are helpful. I had no idea where I was until I could pull up my position on the map app of the phone. Then I knew exactly what direction to go. I was about 1 1/2 miles (2.5 km) from my apartment.
This isn't really an apartment, but I knew that. It has no kitchen. But it has a private outside entrance and its own bath, so I can come and go without disturbing anyone, and it is only $12 per night and located right on the edge of the center of town but on a rather quiet residential street.
My landlord and his wife invited me inside their home for a fresh glass of orange-lime juice. They are nice and interesting young people. Then they, on the way to pick up their twins, dropped me off at the train station.
One of the reasons for stopping in Riobamba was to try to buy an advance ticket for the Devil's Nose train, one of the world's most dramatic train rides. I was able to get my ticket for Tuesday. I will travel by bus from here to Alausi, take the 2 1/2 hour round-trip train ride from there, then catch another bus onward to Cuenca, my next city to visit.
After getting my ticket, I wandered around the center of Riobamba. I found two markets, several plazas, etc. The most interesting experience was coming across a funeral procession. It was old-world style with everyone marching down a neighborhood street near where I am staying. In front was a band playing dirges. Next were children carrying all the flower arrangements. Then came men carrying the casket on their shoulders. Last was the crowd of mourners dressed in black. They were headed toward a nearby church from either a funeral home our the house of the deceased.
In the evening, I finished reading The Lowands by Jhumpa Lahiri. She is one of my favorite writers. It is seldom that I can enjoy reading multiple books by the same author, but I have read all but one of her books now. This one is very well written with a fascinating storyline. I gave it 4 stars out of 5.
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