Old and "New" Carcassonne

Friday, Apr. 21, 2017--Carcassonne, France

There are really two Carcassonnes.  The one that brings the tourists, the one where there have been settlements since 6000 B.C. and became a fortified town over 2000 years ago is called the Cité de Carcassonne.  The "new" one which has existed "only" since the Middle Ages (but after the Crusades) is called Ville Basse (lower city).  My apartment is in a very old building in Ville Basse.  It is about a 20 minute walk from here to the Cité de Carcassonne where I went today.

The Cité de Carcassonne is famous for several reasons.  It is a World Heritage Site, it is said to be the setting for the famous tale Puss in Boots, and parts of Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves were filmed here.  It is a strikingly exotic and beautiful hilltop fortress town with its turrets and castellated walls.  Inside, it's narrow cobblestoned streets twist and wind with old stone and half-timbered buildings along each one.  And the Basilique St-Nazaire inside is a huge church with unbelievably tall and beautiful stain-glassed windows that made me wonder how the building held itself up without collapsing and crushing them.

I had hoped to wander back streets away from tourist restaurants and shops while there, but few are left--maybe 3 short ones.  The whole interior is a mainly one restaurant after another with an occasional "museum" (a torture museum is popular), sweets, or souvenir shop.  People don't usually stay overnight here like I am; they come on a day trip from elsewhere or stop for 2-3 hours while traveling through this area, so the Cité caters to here-for-a-short-time guests.  Originally, I had intended to go back tonight to get a feel for what it is like at a quieter time, but I think all the restaurants will be open and there will be no areas to give me that feeling.

It has been nice, however, staying in the Ville Basse.  It, like other places I have stopped, has narrow streets, old houses, and lots of history.  One of my favorite spots is Place Carnot, the main central square in the city.  It is lined by trees  and filled with sidewalk tables where people sit and visit.  Around it are the typical businesses that a city needs.  Unfortunately, however, there isn't a lot more to Carcassonne.  Much like Arles, in contrast to the other places I have stopped, there are many empty storefronts in town and there is little modern development occurring on the edges of town. 

I had thought I might try to eat out to enjoy the local specialty of Cassoulet tonight, but I still have too much food from yesterday that would be hard to carry with me tomorrow when I leave.  Instead, I will dine on the patio eating the rest of the smoked fish, pasta salad, and beer.  Here are links to recipes for it in case anyone reading this wants to perfect the dish so you can serve it to me when I return home!