Thursday, Mar. 31, 2011--Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas
Stopped at a streetside stall and had two chicken empanadas for breakfast. Then continued to the bus station. Unfortunately, the bus was coming from somewhere else and arrived 30 minutes late. When we did leave, the entire trip was through the mountains on twisting narrow roads. I was thrown both left and right continuously as we made hairpin curves along the route. It wasn't easy the one time I had to walk the aisle and use the toilet.
I immediately bought my ticket to the Guatemala border for Saturday when I arrived. Then I headed for my hotel. I had marked it on my map based on the map at the website for it. But when I got to that location, it wasn't there and no one knew it by name. I walked back toward town and asked a man at another hotel, and he directed me. The map at the website had it located one block further from the center of town than it actually is. The owner is Cuban and speaks good English with a very nice accent.
It has been my lucky day. Today, San Cristobal de las Casas is celebrating its anniversary as a city. I saw a stage set up downtown when I started exploring. First, I stopped for dinner having a menu of the day--lentil soup and chile rellenos. I ordered the cheese version of the latter, and it was more than I expected. There was a mixed vegetable stuffing along with the cheese.
I walked up and down the streets of this nice, colonial city. On my way back toward the central plaza, I heard music and rushed to investigate. There was a military drum and bugle corps performing as the flag was being lowered from the municipal building. Then, as I walked further, I saw a banner advertising a free symphony concert at 7:00. I went into a store to get directions to the theater, then I had to stop twice more for directions because it was far out on the west side of town. I got there 15 minutes before time for the concert, and there was a long line snaking around the building. I went to the end and waited with everyone else.
When we finally started walking, a young man walking beside me asked where I was from. We started talking, and by the time we got to the entrance of the theater, we had introduced ourselves (his name is Alejandro) and had decided to sit together. He used to be an English teacher, but now he is principal of a public secondary school. However, he said he also has to have a second job like most people in Mexico, so he operates a spa--sauna, massage, etc. I told him I was a former teacher, too, and we talked about education until time for the concert to begin.
The concert hall was nice. Alejandro told me it is only about 15 years old. It was the Chiapas Symphony Orchestra playing. At intermission, Alejandro told me he had to go because his mother expected him to meet her. I stayed for the second half which was better than the first.
When it ended, I rushed back toward town due to the fact that it was getting a bit cool for me wearing only a short sleeve shirt. As I approached the central plaza, I could hear more exciting sounds. A samba group was drumming its way through the streets. I managed to get ahead of them, then all of a sudden, there was Alejandro again with his mother! He introduced me and we visited a bit longer. The samba group was moving so slowly, though, that I decided to leave. His mother could not speak English, and I didn't want to spoil their time together. Besides, Alejandro had already told me at the theater that he had to be out of town tomorrow but would try to contact me tomorrow night around 19:00.
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Palenque Ruins
Wednesday, Mar. 30, 2011--Palenque
The guidebook said that the ruins would open at 8:00. That's late for most ruins in the world. Often, they are open for visitors to be present at sunrise. Also, the guidebook said that the vans to the ruins would begin running at 6:00. That seemed to be a big discrepancy. Therefore, I decided to go early in hopes the ruins would be open at least by 7:00. I took a 6:30 van. Sure enough, the ruins were closed and would not open until 8:00. I didn't have my book with me, because I didn't want to carry its weight all morning. I sat and waited. Then I noticed a woman set up a taco operation and attract a few customers. I went over to see, and they looked good. The locals were amused that I was there, and they were surprised when I ordered. I got 3 tacos. Each had a spoonful of rice topped by meat and finally by black beans. I got one with ground beef, one with shredded chicken, and one with cochinita pibil (marinated pork). I added picante sauce and sat on the curb to eat with all the others. The tacos were delicious, especially the one with the pork. I should have gotten more than one of those. Total cost: 15 pesos, about $1.25!
Just before 8:00, three large tour buses pulled into the parking lot. The lady inside the ticket booth started stamping the date on ticket after ticket. I worried that maybe they would favor the guides from the tour buses and sell them their tickets before those of us already in line got ours. Fortunately, that didn't happen. They opened the window and started selling tickets. I got mine and was the first through the gates to see the ruins.
Because I knew the big tour groups were coming, I decided on a strategy of going through the whole complex first taking the best photos I could of the distant shots showing whole buildings or clusters of buildings. I wanted to get them before crowds would be in my frame. I managed to stay ahead of the groups, and I finished that within 30 minutes. Then I slowly made my way back through the complex climbing the buildings and taking photos of specific features.
Palenque ruins are not as impressive as those at Chichen Itza or Uxmal, I don't think, in terms of the architecture of the buildings. However, they have very impressive sculptures here--both still in place within the ruins and in the accompanying museum. I found myself taking lots more photos of details than I have done previously at sites of large ruins.
While there, I met an American woman and her French (Algerian?) husband. After living in France, they have been homeless and traveling around the world for the past 1 1/2 years. They've been here in Mexico now for 3 months starting on the Pacific coast and moving eastward. It was nice to talk to them about travels. They are looking for a place to settle down and maybe open a small business such as owning 2-3 apartments they rent. They said that the west coast of Mexico was too cold for them. They plan to look along the eastern Yucatan coast or the island of Holbox. I didn't think at the time to ask them if they have considered the hurricanes that come through there regularly. They were pleased to know that the Cancun airport has many international flights to both the US and Europe.
The couple I met were staying in one of the jungle lodges--backpacker facilities that are near the park entrance rather than in town. They weren't too happy there. They said there wasn't enough privacy. I had chosen not to stay there because the descriptions made me think it would not be as comfortable a place as I would want. Besides, there is no air conditioning out there at those places!
It was noon and HOT when I got back into town. I spent the afternoon in the room reading newspapers on the computer and relaxing. I eventually went out about 16:30 and had a torta and bought a pastry. While out, I finally found the hotel I had been seeking yesterday; it didn't look as nice as where I am staying, so I guess it is good that I never found it. I returned to my room within an hour, however. My shirt was already damp and clinging to my body. Thank goodness I have an air conditioned room!
The guidebook said that the ruins would open at 8:00. That's late for most ruins in the world. Often, they are open for visitors to be present at sunrise. Also, the guidebook said that the vans to the ruins would begin running at 6:00. That seemed to be a big discrepancy. Therefore, I decided to go early in hopes the ruins would be open at least by 7:00. I took a 6:30 van. Sure enough, the ruins were closed and would not open until 8:00. I didn't have my book with me, because I didn't want to carry its weight all morning. I sat and waited. Then I noticed a woman set up a taco operation and attract a few customers. I went over to see, and they looked good. The locals were amused that I was there, and they were surprised when I ordered. I got 3 tacos. Each had a spoonful of rice topped by meat and finally by black beans. I got one with ground beef, one with shredded chicken, and one with cochinita pibil (marinated pork). I added picante sauce and sat on the curb to eat with all the others. The tacos were delicious, especially the one with the pork. I should have gotten more than one of those. Total cost: 15 pesos, about $1.25!
Just before 8:00, three large tour buses pulled into the parking lot. The lady inside the ticket booth started stamping the date on ticket after ticket. I worried that maybe they would favor the guides from the tour buses and sell them their tickets before those of us already in line got ours. Fortunately, that didn't happen. They opened the window and started selling tickets. I got mine and was the first through the gates to see the ruins.
Because I knew the big tour groups were coming, I decided on a strategy of going through the whole complex first taking the best photos I could of the distant shots showing whole buildings or clusters of buildings. I wanted to get them before crowds would be in my frame. I managed to stay ahead of the groups, and I finished that within 30 minutes. Then I slowly made my way back through the complex climbing the buildings and taking photos of specific features.
Palenque ruins are not as impressive as those at Chichen Itza or Uxmal, I don't think, in terms of the architecture of the buildings. However, they have very impressive sculptures here--both still in place within the ruins and in the accompanying museum. I found myself taking lots more photos of details than I have done previously at sites of large ruins.
While there, I met an American woman and her French (Algerian?) husband. After living in France, they have been homeless and traveling around the world for the past 1 1/2 years. They've been here in Mexico now for 3 months starting on the Pacific coast and moving eastward. It was nice to talk to them about travels. They are looking for a place to settle down and maybe open a small business such as owning 2-3 apartments they rent. They said that the west coast of Mexico was too cold for them. They plan to look along the eastern Yucatan coast or the island of Holbox. I didn't think at the time to ask them if they have considered the hurricanes that come through there regularly. They were pleased to know that the Cancun airport has many international flights to both the US and Europe.
The couple I met were staying in one of the jungle lodges--backpacker facilities that are near the park entrance rather than in town. They weren't too happy there. They said there wasn't enough privacy. I had chosen not to stay there because the descriptions made me think it would not be as comfortable a place as I would want. Besides, there is no air conditioning out there at those places!
It was noon and HOT when I got back into town. I spent the afternoon in the room reading newspapers on the computer and relaxing. I eventually went out about 16:30 and had a torta and bought a pastry. While out, I finally found the hotel I had been seeking yesterday; it didn't look as nice as where I am staying, so I guess it is good that I never found it. I returned to my room within an hour, however. My shirt was already damp and clinging to my body. Thank goodness I have an air conditioned room!
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Transition from Campeche to Palenque
Tuesday, Mar. 29, 2011--Campeche to Palenque
Got out of the room at 9:00 so that the temperatures would be more reasonable for walking to the bus station and so that I would have time to get some food at a small place I had seen near the station. As I walked up to the place operated by one woman and having only two tables, I noticed that "huevos" was painted on the front of the building along with other offerings. I finally got my eggs! I ordered them with chorizo. They looked great with no floating grease. Beside them was a serving of refried black beans. Added to the table were red and green hot sauces, a bowl of fresh pico de gallo, and a plate of corn tortillas. It was delicious, especially with the green sauce and pico de gallo. The tortillas, like many in Mexico, were very thin and almost crusty along the edges. I get better ones in San Antonio.
There were quite a few tourists on the bus. A German couple about my age was in front of me. A young British couple was across the aisle from me. I didn't talk to any of them. I napped about half the way, and I read much of the rest of the way. The trip was 5 1/4 hours.
As everyone else paused to decide what to do, I rushed from the bus station using the "map in my head." For some reason, I couldn't find the hotel I wanted in the area where it was supposed to be, and no one in the block recognized the name. So I headed two blocks away to my second choice. I got a room there with no problem. It's a bit of a come-down from my 4-star room in Campeche, but I am only paying about 40% of the cost of the room in Campeche. However, it has all the essentials plus more--hot water, a/c, cable TV, wifi, etc. It's just a bit smaller and a bit plainer. Their website expired Mar. 18 and has not yet been renewed, so I cannot send a link.
I ate a torta for dinner. Then I stopped at a bakery and bought a coconut empanada. Being outside is not pleasant, however. Besides being hot and humid, there is no breeze here. Will try to go to the ruins early tomorrow. Otherwise, I don't know how I would bare the heat. Got a 5 liter bottle of water on my way back to the room.
Got out of the room at 9:00 so that the temperatures would be more reasonable for walking to the bus station and so that I would have time to get some food at a small place I had seen near the station. As I walked up to the place operated by one woman and having only two tables, I noticed that "huevos" was painted on the front of the building along with other offerings. I finally got my eggs! I ordered them with chorizo. They looked great with no floating grease. Beside them was a serving of refried black beans. Added to the table were red and green hot sauces, a bowl of fresh pico de gallo, and a plate of corn tortillas. It was delicious, especially with the green sauce and pico de gallo. The tortillas, like many in Mexico, were very thin and almost crusty along the edges. I get better ones in San Antonio.
There were quite a few tourists on the bus. A German couple about my age was in front of me. A young British couple was across the aisle from me. I didn't talk to any of them. I napped about half the way, and I read much of the rest of the way. The trip was 5 1/4 hours.
As everyone else paused to decide what to do, I rushed from the bus station using the "map in my head." For some reason, I couldn't find the hotel I wanted in the area where it was supposed to be, and no one in the block recognized the name. So I headed two blocks away to my second choice. I got a room there with no problem. It's a bit of a come-down from my 4-star room in Campeche, but I am only paying about 40% of the cost of the room in Campeche. However, it has all the essentials plus more--hot water, a/c, cable TV, wifi, etc. It's just a bit smaller and a bit plainer. Their website expired Mar. 18 and has not yet been renewed, so I cannot send a link.
I ate a torta for dinner. Then I stopped at a bakery and bought a coconut empanada. Being outside is not pleasant, however. Besides being hot and humid, there is no breeze here. Will try to go to the ruins early tomorrow. Otherwise, I don't know how I would bare the heat. Got a 5 liter bottle of water on my way back to the room.
Monday, March 28, 2011
Campeche Would Impress Most Americans
Monday, Mar. 28, 2011--Campeche
Although I was out of the room early, it was already warm. The choices of times to visit here are the present dry season (hot and humid) or the rainy season (hot and humid with rain parts of most days). Fortunately, my room is air conditioned. That may not be true for where I will be tomorrow!
The town was more alive today. I arrived Saturday after most businesses had closed for the day, and Sunday was like Saturday night. Today was the first "normal" day for me to be here. It's much nicer having all the neighborhood shops, schools, restaurants, etc., open. I still did not find a place for breakfast, however. I guess that people here have breakfast at home and that tourists have it in their hotels. My 3-days-for-the-price-of-2 special here at the Hotel Francis Drake did not include breakfast.
Headed for the bus station to buy a ticket for my trip tomorrow. It was a good idea, because there were only about 7-8 seats still available on the 11:00 bus to Palenque tomorrow. While at the station, I gave away my TIME magazine to some tourists who were waiting to depart.
Stopped for lunch on my way back from the station. Decided to find out what a tranca is. The definition is a bar like on a window. Well, it proved to be a LARGE torta (versus a regular torta). It was a larger bun than what I have gotten before. Along with it, I had some freshly made orangeade (like limonade, but made with oranges).
During the heat of the afternoon, I did more research for hotels in places I will be visiting on the trip. I am especially concerned about the Easter holidays, so I concentrated on trying to find places then. But I also followed up on correspondence I had gotten related to hotels in other places. I updated the itinerary with hotels that I have now confirmed for a couple of new places.
Since I hadn't eaten much (some tortas and some peanuts) since getting here, I stopped at a place near my hotel for comida at 17:00. I got a plate with a large, thin piece of flank steak, salad, refried black beans, and a squash-corn-onion vegetable mixture. It came with tortillas, and I got a bottle of tea. It was tasty, but I get better Mexican food at home. The price was only slightly less than what I would pay at home, too--$4.40.
I made it for the sunset tonight. Many people were on the seawall. Most were walking or jogging. One group was exercising. Their schedule called for tae bo on Mondays and Thursdays, zumba on Tuesdays and Fridays, and aerobics on Wednesdays. It was nice to see that 1/4 of the participants were men. In Asia, it's mostly women in these public exercise activities.
With the sun down, the breeze along the waterfront felt nice. I walked further south into an area that has been developed in recent years passing a convention center, a multi-screen cinema, a Wal-Mart, a casino, and lots of franchise restaurants (VIPS, McDonalds, KFC, Churches, Applebee's, etc.).
Most Americans would be surprised, I think, of what cities in Mexico are like today, especially those who have only visited border cities or have not been to Mexico for several years. Campeche is a clean, modern city. It has restored its historical downtown, built new infrastructure, and modernized over the years. Much of it is in as good a condition and is as attractive as San Antonio or Corpus Christi, and some of it surpasses those cities.
Spent my final night hours at the main plaza reading and watching people. A young man beside me was singing and playing a guitar. A group of young people were singing and dancing (exercise-style) on a stage. On the way back to the hotel, I passed a building with a group of young people dancing to Latin music. It looked like an enjoyable way to burn lots of calories.
Although I was out of the room early, it was already warm. The choices of times to visit here are the present dry season (hot and humid) or the rainy season (hot and humid with rain parts of most days). Fortunately, my room is air conditioned. That may not be true for where I will be tomorrow!
The town was more alive today. I arrived Saturday after most businesses had closed for the day, and Sunday was like Saturday night. Today was the first "normal" day for me to be here. It's much nicer having all the neighborhood shops, schools, restaurants, etc., open. I still did not find a place for breakfast, however. I guess that people here have breakfast at home and that tourists have it in their hotels. My 3-days-for-the-price-of-2 special here at the Hotel Francis Drake did not include breakfast.
Headed for the bus station to buy a ticket for my trip tomorrow. It was a good idea, because there were only about 7-8 seats still available on the 11:00 bus to Palenque tomorrow. While at the station, I gave away my TIME magazine to some tourists who were waiting to depart.
Stopped for lunch on my way back from the station. Decided to find out what a tranca is. The definition is a bar like on a window. Well, it proved to be a LARGE torta (versus a regular torta). It was a larger bun than what I have gotten before. Along with it, I had some freshly made orangeade (like limonade, but made with oranges).
During the heat of the afternoon, I did more research for hotels in places I will be visiting on the trip. I am especially concerned about the Easter holidays, so I concentrated on trying to find places then. But I also followed up on correspondence I had gotten related to hotels in other places. I updated the itinerary with hotels that I have now confirmed for a couple of new places.
Since I hadn't eaten much (some tortas and some peanuts) since getting here, I stopped at a place near my hotel for comida at 17:00. I got a plate with a large, thin piece of flank steak, salad, refried black beans, and a squash-corn-onion vegetable mixture. It came with tortillas, and I got a bottle of tea. It was tasty, but I get better Mexican food at home. The price was only slightly less than what I would pay at home, too--$4.40.
I made it for the sunset tonight. Many people were on the seawall. Most were walking or jogging. One group was exercising. Their schedule called for tae bo on Mondays and Thursdays, zumba on Tuesdays and Fridays, and aerobics on Wednesdays. It was nice to see that 1/4 of the participants were men. In Asia, it's mostly women in these public exercise activities.
With the sun down, the breeze along the waterfront felt nice. I walked further south into an area that has been developed in recent years passing a convention center, a multi-screen cinema, a Wal-Mart, a casino, and lots of franchise restaurants (VIPS, McDonalds, KFC, Churches, Applebee's, etc.).
Most Americans would be surprised, I think, of what cities in Mexico are like today, especially those who have only visited border cities or have not been to Mexico for several years. Campeche is a clean, modern city. It has restored its historical downtown, built new infrastructure, and modernized over the years. Much of it is in as good a condition and is as attractive as San Antonio or Corpus Christi, and some of it surpasses those cities.
Spent my final night hours at the main plaza reading and watching people. A young man beside me was singing and playing a guitar. A group of young people were singing and dancing (exercise-style) on a stage. On the way back to the hotel, I passed a building with a group of young people dancing to Latin music. It looked like an enjoyable way to burn lots of calories.
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Hot Sunday in Campeche
Sunday, Mar. 27, 2011--Campeche
My bed has a new, but not high quality, mattress. I could tell during the night. Normally I don't have problems with sleeping on such beds. I guess I've been spoiled by the new mattress I bought myself in January.
The air conditioner was running constantly last night. The thermostat is in a hallway that was quite dark in the evening. I looked to try to adjust it, but it appeared that the control was broken. Therefore, I covered up to my head. And I turned the a/c off when I got up once during the night and back on when I got up another time later. In better light this morning, however, I noticed that there was a clear plastic slide for adjusting the temperature. Apparently, the bellboy slid it to its coldest setting when he brought me to the room. I set it at an acceptable temperature, and it has been cycling on and off all day. I should sleep much better tonight.
My sleep was also hampered by the sheets being tucked in too far. Since it is a king size bed, I just ended up sleeping in it at an angle so that I could get my whole body under the covers.
When I left the hotel this morning at 9:45, there were many people walking from the waterfront. When I finally saw a couple of people with numbers attached to their tops I realized they had just finished some kind of race. This city seems to celebrate. Besides this race and the bread festival I mentioned last night, they also participated in the worldwide A Night without Lights celebration by turning off the lights on the city walls for an hour last night starting at 20:30.
This has been my first time to be on the Gulf of Mexico within Mexico. I lived right on it in the US, but I have never been to it south of the border. And because of the location of Campeche it is so different with the sun rising over the city and setting over the water. The waterfront here reminds me of Corpus Christi, however. There is a seawall along it with a promenade. Beside the promenade is a wide street following the waterfront. It's clean, and there are palm trees. But there is no real shade, and it gets quite hot early in the day.
I hoped to find a place for a good Mexican restaurant, but I couldn't Sunday is always a lazy day in Mexico. The market was open, however, and I wandered through the food stalls there until I found a place serving cochinita pibil tortas--sandwiches filled with roasted pork and marinated onions. UMMMM! It was great.
Near my hotel is a Museum of the Desert which I visited. It is small and has mainly fossils of fish, reptiles, etc. Then I headed back to the room because of the heat. It was getting HOT fast!
For part of the afternoon, I researched hotels in my next two stops. I sent some e-mails for information. I have a better idea of where to stay now. My head was aching by the end of the search, however.
Going back out around 16:30, I explored some neighborhoods to the north and northeast of the historic center. Most tourists never go there. They are typical Mexican neighborhoods with a mixture of plain, simple homes and a few that are large and fancy. Many have shards of glass along the tops of the walls to discourage burglaries. Some even had live chickens in the enclosed yard. People were beginning to come out of their houses because the temperature was going down. I passed one family sitting on the front sidewalk playing bingo. A block later, I passed a group of 4 guys sitting outside. One of them said something to me that I didn't understand, so I just responded with, "Hola!" As I continued walking, one of them asked in a surprised way, "Do you speak English?" I responded, "Si," and just kept on walking. As I said, they aren't used to having tourists in their neighborhood.
Coming back toward the center of town, I stopped at the large supermarket where I had been last night and bought another diet soda and some spicy peanuts to keep in my room for snacking. The sun was getting slow, so I rushed to get them to my hotel and to try to make it to the waterfront to see the setting sun. Unfortunately, it was already gone. But the sky was a beautiful pink, orange and blue, and there were people there who had come to enjoy the cool breeze and the sunset.
I made my way to the main plaza in town where they were setting up for a band concert. My timing was great. I took a seat, and the concert began about 10 minutes later. It reminded me of the Sunday evening concerts by the waterfront in Corpus Christi. Whole families were there to enjoy the music. The band was not great--just a group of local musicians who enjoy performing. The music was mostly Spanish. It lasted about 45 minutes and was pleasant.
From there, I headed to the Bread Festival. I bought two treats. One was four small dough balls which had been fried and then stuck together in a pyramid by a thick coating of caramelized sugar. It was tasty, but messy. Then I bought a rice-coconut pudding topped with cinnamon. It was thick enough to be cut into slices. There was live music on the stage there, too--about 15 musicians playing guitars and bongo-type drums. It wasn't mariachi music, but it sounded a bit like it.
By 20:00, I was tired. I returned to the room. It's been a good day. My only wish is that it could have been a bit more comfortable. It got up to 33 degrees celsius (91 1/2 F) with high humidity. Even after the sun went down, the air was still VERY muggy. But I got some color on my face and arms. Soon I'll be looking just like I'm one of the Mexicans.
My bed has a new, but not high quality, mattress. I could tell during the night. Normally I don't have problems with sleeping on such beds. I guess I've been spoiled by the new mattress I bought myself in January.
The air conditioner was running constantly last night. The thermostat is in a hallway that was quite dark in the evening. I looked to try to adjust it, but it appeared that the control was broken. Therefore, I covered up to my head. And I turned the a/c off when I got up once during the night and back on when I got up another time later. In better light this morning, however, I noticed that there was a clear plastic slide for adjusting the temperature. Apparently, the bellboy slid it to its coldest setting when he brought me to the room. I set it at an acceptable temperature, and it has been cycling on and off all day. I should sleep much better tonight.
My sleep was also hampered by the sheets being tucked in too far. Since it is a king size bed, I just ended up sleeping in it at an angle so that I could get my whole body under the covers.
When I left the hotel this morning at 9:45, there were many people walking from the waterfront. When I finally saw a couple of people with numbers attached to their tops I realized they had just finished some kind of race. This city seems to celebrate. Besides this race and the bread festival I mentioned last night, they also participated in the worldwide A Night without Lights celebration by turning off the lights on the city walls for an hour last night starting at 20:30.
This has been my first time to be on the Gulf of Mexico within Mexico. I lived right on it in the US, but I have never been to it south of the border. And because of the location of Campeche it is so different with the sun rising over the city and setting over the water. The waterfront here reminds me of Corpus Christi, however. There is a seawall along it with a promenade. Beside the promenade is a wide street following the waterfront. It's clean, and there are palm trees. But there is no real shade, and it gets quite hot early in the day.
I hoped to find a place for a good Mexican restaurant, but I couldn't Sunday is always a lazy day in Mexico. The market was open, however, and I wandered through the food stalls there until I found a place serving cochinita pibil tortas--sandwiches filled with roasted pork and marinated onions. UMMMM! It was great.
Near my hotel is a Museum of the Desert which I visited. It is small and has mainly fossils of fish, reptiles, etc. Then I headed back to the room because of the heat. It was getting HOT fast!
For part of the afternoon, I researched hotels in my next two stops. I sent some e-mails for information. I have a better idea of where to stay now. My head was aching by the end of the search, however.
Going back out around 16:30, I explored some neighborhoods to the north and northeast of the historic center. Most tourists never go there. They are typical Mexican neighborhoods with a mixture of plain, simple homes and a few that are large and fancy. Many have shards of glass along the tops of the walls to discourage burglaries. Some even had live chickens in the enclosed yard. People were beginning to come out of their houses because the temperature was going down. I passed one family sitting on the front sidewalk playing bingo. A block later, I passed a group of 4 guys sitting outside. One of them said something to me that I didn't understand, so I just responded with, "Hola!" As I continued walking, one of them asked in a surprised way, "Do you speak English?" I responded, "Si," and just kept on walking. As I said, they aren't used to having tourists in their neighborhood.
Coming back toward the center of town, I stopped at the large supermarket where I had been last night and bought another diet soda and some spicy peanuts to keep in my room for snacking. The sun was getting slow, so I rushed to get them to my hotel and to try to make it to the waterfront to see the setting sun. Unfortunately, it was already gone. But the sky was a beautiful pink, orange and blue, and there were people there who had come to enjoy the cool breeze and the sunset.
I made my way to the main plaza in town where they were setting up for a band concert. My timing was great. I took a seat, and the concert began about 10 minutes later. It reminded me of the Sunday evening concerts by the waterfront in Corpus Christi. Whole families were there to enjoy the music. The band was not great--just a group of local musicians who enjoy performing. The music was mostly Spanish. It lasted about 45 minutes and was pleasant.
From there, I headed to the Bread Festival. I bought two treats. One was four small dough balls which had been fried and then stuck together in a pyramid by a thick coating of caramelized sugar. It was tasty, but messy. Then I bought a rice-coconut pudding topped with cinnamon. It was thick enough to be cut into slices. There was live music on the stage there, too--about 15 musicians playing guitars and bongo-type drums. It wasn't mariachi music, but it sounded a bit like it.
By 20:00, I was tired. I returned to the room. It's been a good day. My only wish is that it could have been a bit more comfortable. It got up to 33 degrees celsius (91 1/2 F) with high humidity. Even after the sun went down, the air was still VERY muggy. But I got some color on my face and arms. Soon I'll be looking just like I'm one of the Mexicans.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Rush, Wait, Travel; Rush, Wait, Travel; etc.!
Saturday, Mar. 26, 2011--San Antonio to Cancun to Campeche
All day has been a series of travels which all involved rushing, then waiting, then finally traveling. I was up at 5:00 and rushing to take care of final details, get bathed, etc. I arrived at the airport at 6:00. Check-in went well, and I was upgraded to first class. I took advantage of the waiting period to check my mail and read the newspapers using the free wifi at the airport.
The flight was smooth and easy. I read an old issue of TIME I had put aside. I also ate the nice breakfast they served--egg and sausage on a muffin, fruit salad, yogurt, and a warm cinnamon roll. Before I knew it, we were landing in Cancun. Lots of others were arriving, too, but the lines for immigration and customs moved fast. For the first time ever in Mexico, I got the "red light," though. When going through customs, everyone pushes a button. If you get a green light, you just walk on out. If you get a red, they check your luggage. Even though I was in a rush to try to catch a bus downtown, I had to stop and open my bags and let them go through them messing things up. Of course there was nothing to be found. But that's because I stuffed down the 8 dates I had packed when I realized after finishing my breakfast that I had to eat them, too, or lose them because they were "fresh" fruit with pits.
As I rushed out of the terminal, the bus for town was pulling away. I had to wait another hour for the next bus. I took advantage of the time to go to the toilet and to go to an ATM. I also visited with a young couple from Merida who had been vacationing in Las Vegas and Atlanta and a medical professor who was going to visit his daughter who lives on a small island near here. When the bus finally arrived around 10:35, I told the driver I was rushing for the Campeche bus leaving downtown at 11:20.
Fortunately, traffic was light. Otherwise, we wouldn't have made it. We pulled in the station with 10 minutes to go. I had to rush inside and buy a ticket. The door was open and the bus was loading by the time I got there.
The bus trip was LONG. Over 7 hours, it took me all the way across the Yucatan. We passed the ruins at Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which I have visited twice before. We made short stops in Valladolid and Merida. Otherwise, we were rushing across the jungle flats. Just outside of Campeche, I experienced a deja vu moment when the bus started to pass a pickup truck filled with people in the back. He saw he didn't have room to pass, yet he was going too fast to stop and pull back. He hit the breaks. I looked down, thinking we were going to hit the back of the truck and send the people flying into the air. The truck pulled off the road slightly, and the driver of the bus somehow slowed down enough to be right on their tail without hitting them. I was sure I was going to have another moment like the one in Georgia two years ago.
Campeche is not a large city. The bus station is on the outer edge of the city, but it is only 2.5 km (1.5 mi) from the center of town. I had been sitting so long, that I just walked into town. I had the route in my head after having seen it on the map, so I made it to my hotel with no problems and checked in at 18:45.
This place is really special!! It was an old walled city, and some of the walls are still standing. Inside, there is a completely restored old city that is beautiful. It reminds me a bit of Oaxaca or of San Miguel de Allende except that there are mostly locals here. I have seen a few tourists, but it is very limited. It is truly a gem of a city.
After checking in, I went out exploring. I walked to the main square passing art exhibitions, old churches, shops, etc. There is a beautiful, lighted cathedral there, and a library in what was probably once the city hall facing the plaza. The plaza is clean with tall trees, and it was filled with strolling couples and others sitting on the benches along the side. Just outside the walls near the plaza, I found a bread festival taking place. There was a stage with live music, a small carnival, and a large tent with various bakers showing their products and selling them.
Being tired and hungry, I headed back outside the walls on the street I had taken from the bus station. I found a place with a shawarma-style grill and bought a torta filled with the shaved meat, cabbage, lime juice, and picante sauce. I sat at a bus stop and ate it. Then I went to a large supermarket and bought a large cola. I had gone all day with no water until I got to my room, and I still needed some liquid.
Unfortunately, I was too tired to go back to the festival. I just returned to the room to try to rest for the night.
All day has been a series of travels which all involved rushing, then waiting, then finally traveling. I was up at 5:00 and rushing to take care of final details, get bathed, etc. I arrived at the airport at 6:00. Check-in went well, and I was upgraded to first class. I took advantage of the waiting period to check my mail and read the newspapers using the free wifi at the airport.
The flight was smooth and easy. I read an old issue of TIME I had put aside. I also ate the nice breakfast they served--egg and sausage on a muffin, fruit salad, yogurt, and a warm cinnamon roll. Before I knew it, we were landing in Cancun. Lots of others were arriving, too, but the lines for immigration and customs moved fast. For the first time ever in Mexico, I got the "red light," though. When going through customs, everyone pushes a button. If you get a green light, you just walk on out. If you get a red, they check your luggage. Even though I was in a rush to try to catch a bus downtown, I had to stop and open my bags and let them go through them messing things up. Of course there was nothing to be found. But that's because I stuffed down the 8 dates I had packed when I realized after finishing my breakfast that I had to eat them, too, or lose them because they were "fresh" fruit with pits.
As I rushed out of the terminal, the bus for town was pulling away. I had to wait another hour for the next bus. I took advantage of the time to go to the toilet and to go to an ATM. I also visited with a young couple from Merida who had been vacationing in Las Vegas and Atlanta and a medical professor who was going to visit his daughter who lives on a small island near here. When the bus finally arrived around 10:35, I told the driver I was rushing for the Campeche bus leaving downtown at 11:20.
Fortunately, traffic was light. Otherwise, we wouldn't have made it. We pulled in the station with 10 minutes to go. I had to rush inside and buy a ticket. The door was open and the bus was loading by the time I got there.
The bus trip was LONG. Over 7 hours, it took me all the way across the Yucatan. We passed the ruins at Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which I have visited twice before. We made short stops in Valladolid and Merida. Otherwise, we were rushing across the jungle flats. Just outside of Campeche, I experienced a deja vu moment when the bus started to pass a pickup truck filled with people in the back. He saw he didn't have room to pass, yet he was going too fast to stop and pull back. He hit the breaks. I looked down, thinking we were going to hit the back of the truck and send the people flying into the air. The truck pulled off the road slightly, and the driver of the bus somehow slowed down enough to be right on their tail without hitting them. I was sure I was going to have another moment like the one in Georgia two years ago.
Campeche is not a large city. The bus station is on the outer edge of the city, but it is only 2.5 km (1.5 mi) from the center of town. I had been sitting so long, that I just walked into town. I had the route in my head after having seen it on the map, so I made it to my hotel with no problems and checked in at 18:45.
This place is really special!! It was an old walled city, and some of the walls are still standing. Inside, there is a completely restored old city that is beautiful. It reminds me a bit of Oaxaca or of San Miguel de Allende except that there are mostly locals here. I have seen a few tourists, but it is very limited. It is truly a gem of a city.
After checking in, I went out exploring. I walked to the main square passing art exhibitions, old churches, shops, etc. There is a beautiful, lighted cathedral there, and a library in what was probably once the city hall facing the plaza. The plaza is clean with tall trees, and it was filled with strolling couples and others sitting on the benches along the side. Just outside the walls near the plaza, I found a bread festival taking place. There was a stage with live music, a small carnival, and a large tent with various bakers showing their products and selling them.
Being tired and hungry, I headed back outside the walls on the street I had taken from the bus station. I found a place with a shawarma-style grill and bought a torta filled with the shaved meat, cabbage, lime juice, and picante sauce. I sat at a bus stop and ate it. Then I went to a large supermarket and bought a large cola. I had gone all day with no water until I got to my room, and I still needed some liquid.
Unfortunately, I was too tired to go back to the festival. I just returned to the room to try to rest for the night.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Itinerary for Northern Central America/Yucatan
Sat., Mar. 26--San Antonio to Campeche (p. 50)--Continental 1809: Dep. 7:30/Arr. 9:05 Cancun; bus to downton Cancun, 20 min., 15 pesos; bus to Campeche: ADO Line Dep. 11:20/Arr. 17:20, 410 pesos; ADO GL Line Dep. 14:20/Arr. 21:10, 492 pesos. Hotel: Hotel Francis Drake
Sun. Mar. 27--Campeche
Mon., Mar. 28--Campeche
Tuesday, Mar. 29--Campeche to Palenque (p. 44)--ADO Line Dep. 11:00/Arr. 16:15, 266 pesos. Hotel: Hotel Posada Shalom
Wednesday, Mar. 30--Palenque
Thursday, Mar. 31--Palenque to San Cristobal de Casas (p. 37)--OCC Line Dep. 9:00/Arr. 14:05, 148 pesos or OCC Line Dep. 9:20/Arr. 14:10, 148 pesos Hotel: Posada Las Casas
Friday, Apr. 1--San Cristobal de Casas
Sat., Apr. 2--San Cristobal de Casas to Quetzaltenango (p. 139)--Bus to Ciudad Cuauhtemoc, OCC Line Dep. 7:00/Arr. 10:10 or Dep. 7:45/Arr. 10:55. 88 pesos; Cross border from Ciudad Cuauhtemoc to La Mesilla, 4km, Collectivo taxi, 10 pesos, or private taxi, 30 pesos, money changers on both sides of border; La Mesilla mototaxi, 3 pesos/Q2 to bus depot; then bus to Quetzaltenango, 3 1/2 hours, Q15 (Note: Can book van with travel agency for entire trip of 8 hours for 260 pesos.) Hotel: Casa San Bartolome
Sun., Apr. 3--Quetzaltenango
Mon., Apr. 4--Quetzaltenango
Tues., Apr. 5--Quetzaltenango to Panajachel, Lago de Atitlan (p. 117)--hourly, 3 hours, Q25 Hotel: Hotel Utz Jay
Wed., Apr. 6--Panajachel to Santiago Atitlan (p. 125)--boat, 35 min., Q20 Hotel: Cottage at Posada Santiago (Cottage Images)
Thurs., Apr. 7--Santiago Atitlan to San Pedro La Laguna (p. 125)--boat, 45 min., Q25 Hotel: Mikaso Hotel
Fri., Apr. 8--San Predro La Laguna
Sat., Apr. 9--San Pedro La Laguna to Chichicastenango (p. 131)--Boat to Panajachel, 45 min., Q25/bus, 5 daily, 1 1/2 hours, Q20 Hotel: Posada del Arco
Sun., Apr. 10--Chichicastenango (Sunday Market)
Mon., Apr. 11--Chichicastenango to Antigua (p. 102)--Bus toward Guatamala City to Chimaltenango/transfer onward (3 1/2 hours total) to Antigua. Hotel: Chez Daniel
Tues., Apr. 12--Antigua
Wed., Apr. 13--Antigua
Thurs., Apr. 14--Antigua to Guatemala City (p. 89)--Bus every few minutes, 1 hr. Q8. Hotel: Hotel Colonial
Fri., Apr. 15--Guatemala City
Note: Easter Week begins on Friday and continues through Sunday, the 24th.
Sat., Apr. 16--Guatemala City to Concepcion de Ataco (p. 305) via Border Crossing at Las Chinamas-Valle Nuevo and Ahuachapan: Frequent mini-buses from Guatemala City to Las Chinamas/Bus 263 from Las Chinamas to Ahuachapan, 40 min, 50 cents arrives at 8a Calle Poniente at the northwest coprner of Parque Menendez/Bus 249 from 10a Calle Oriente (one block forth of Parque Central) for Concepcion de Ataco, 15 minues, 35 cents
Sun., Apr. 17--Concepcion de Ataco to Juayua (p. 303)--Bus 249 from the corner of 2a Calle Oriente and 4a Av Sur, 30 min., 50 cents (Note: Go early and make room reservation because Juayua has a well-known weekend food fair and it is Easter week) Hotel: Hotel Anahuac
Mon., Apr. 18--Juayua
Tues., Apr. 19--Juayua to Chalchuapa (p. 301)--Bus 238 from a few blocks west of Parque Central to Santa Ana, 6 times p/day, 40 min., 50 cents; Bus 218, 30 min., 25 cents to Tazumal/Chalchuapa
Wed., Apr. 20--Chalchuapa to Santa Ana (p. 296)--Bus 218, 30 min., 25 cents
Thurs., Apr. 21--Santa Ana
Fri., Apr. 22--Santa Ana to San Salvador (p. 277)--Bus 201 to Metrocentro Stop (Directo: 1 1/2 hours, 80 cents/Especial: 1 1/4 hours, $1.25) (Good Friday). Hotel: Hotel Grecia Real
Sat., Apr. 23--San Salvador
Sun., Apr. 24--San Salvador (Easter Sunday)
Mon., Apr. 25--San Salvador to San Vicente (p. 308)--Local 9, 29, or 34 from city center or 29 or 52 from Blvd de los Heroes to Terminal de Oriente/Bus 116 from there--1 1/2 hr., 90 cents
Tues., Apr. 26--San Vicente to Alegria (p. 309)--Go to 6a Calle and 2a Av. to catch an eastward bus from Carretera Interamericana for Villa El Triunfo; tranfer there for Alegria--minibus toSantiago de Maria, 15 min., 30 cents/hourly bus to Alegria, 45 min., 60 cents
Wed., Apr. 27--Alegria
Thurs., Apr. 28--Alegria to San Miguel--Hourly bus for Santiago de Maria, 45 min., 60 cents/minibus for Villa El Triunfo, 15 min., 30 cents/Bus 377 for San Miguel, 2 hrs., $1.60
Fri., Apr. 29--San Miguel to Tegucigalpa (p. 342)--Bus 330 for El Amatillo Border Crossing, every 10 min., 1 1/2 hrs., $1.90/Honduras bus to Choluteca, 1 1/2 hrs., $2.10/Bus to Tegucigalpa, 3 1/2 hours, $2. Alternative: Spend the night in San Miguel, buy ticket Monday night at Esso Station, Av. Roosevelt at Ruta Militar, for the 8:00 Tuesday King Quality Bus from there, 5 hrs. $27
Sat., Apr. 30--Tegucigalpa
Sun., May 1--Tegucigalpa to Comayagua (p. 355)--Nortenas bus, 2 hrs., 9:00 or 10:00, 37L or Transportes Catrachos (station in sketchy area), every 30 min., 2 hrs., 38L
Mon., May 2--Comayagua to San Juan (p.384)--Bus from Comayagua to Siguatepeque, every 15 min., 1 hr., 25L/Bus from Siguateque to La Esperanza, every hour from front of Hospedaje Central half a block west of Parque Central, 50-55L/Buses from Transportes Carolina (called Punta Calolina locally) in eastern part of La Esperanza depart for San Juan at 11:00, 11:30, and 2:30, 1 hr., 40L, or take a pick-up to San Juan
Tues., May 3--San Juan to Gracias (p. 381)--Bus, 1 hr., 40L
Wed., May 4--Gracias
Thurs., May 5--Gracias to Copan Ruinas (p. 369)--Bus to La Entrada, then change to bus, every 40 min., to Copan Ruinas, Approx. 4 hrs., Approx. 125L
Fri., May 6--Copan Ruinas
Sat., May 7--Gracias to Chiquimula (p. 172)--Depart around noon--Minibuses and pickups depart every 25 min. or when full for Guatemala border, 20L/
Sun., May 8--Chiquimula to Puerto Barrios (p. 181)--Buses every half hour, 4 1/2 hrs., 40Q
Mon., May 9--Puerto Barrios to Livingston (p. 184)--Boat Lanchas at 7:30, 9:00, and 11:00 (Buy ticket as early as possible on day of departure), 30 min., Q30 Hotel: Garden Gate Hotel Photos
Tues., May 10--Livingston
Wed., May 11--Livingston to Rio Dulce (p. 177)--9:30 Boat Tour, Q125 one-way
Thurs., May 12--Rio Dulce to Flores (p. 191)--Fuente del Norte bus, 14 per day, 4 hrs., Q60/Wes arrives via bus from Belize City
Fri., May 13--Flores--Side Trip to Tikal
Sat., May 14--Flores to Dandriga (p. 250)--Bus (Transportes Pinita or Transportes Rosalita) from Flores to Melchor de Mencos (Border Crossing), hourly, 2 hrs., Q25/3 km hike to Benque Viejo del Carmen or taxi for BZ$10/Bus from there Belmopan, every 30 min., 1 1/2-1 3/4 hrs (local/express)/Bus to Dandriga, 2-3 hrs. Note: Stay overnight in San Ignacio or Belmopan if problems making whole trip develop
Sun., May 15--Dandriga (or Bus to Dandriga if problems develop on the 14th getting that far)--Side Trip to Hopkins (p. 253)--Bus departs at 11:30, 45 min., BZ$5; check on return bus
Mon., May 16--Dandriga to Placencia (p. 255)--5 buses per day beginning at 9:00, 2 1/2 hrs., BZ$10
Tues., May 17--Placencia
Wed., May 18--Placencia to Belize City (p. 225)--Hokey Pokey Water Taxi to Mango Creek at 10:00, BZ$10, walk 5 min up main street, turn left at gas station, wait in front of Sherl's Restaurant, hourly buses, 4 1/2 hrs., BZ$20
Thurs., May 19--Belize City
Fri., May 20--Belize City to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye (p. 234)--Hourly starting at 8:00, 1 hr., BZ$20
Sat., May 21--San Pedro
Sun., May 22--San Pedro to Orange Walk (p. 238)--Boat from San Pedro to Belize City, hourly starting at 7:00, 1 hr., BZ$20/Bus from main terminal to Orange Walk, hourly, 2 hrs., BZ$5/7 (local/express)
Mon., May 23--Orange Walk (Side tour to Lamanai, BZ$90--arrange upon arrival on Sunday)
Tues., May 24--Orange Walk to Corozal (p. 240)--Buses hourly from bus stop at corner of Queen Victoria Av. and St. Peter St., 1 hr. BZ$4. Go to dentist in Corozal or in Chetumal cross border tomorrow.
Wed., May 25--Corozal to Chetumal (p. 71)--Buses from Belize City to Chetumal stop in Corozal and wait at the border for processing, BZ$6-7. Notes: $19 US/BZ$38 exit fee to leave Belize. Go to dentist if didn't in Corozal
Thurs., May 26--Chetumal to Playa del Carmen (p. 63)--Bus, 5-5 1/2 hrs., 154-258 pesos (ADO bus at 8:30 or 10:30, 4 1/2 hrs., 226 pesos)
Fri., May 27--Playa del Carmen--(Side trip to Tulum--bus, 1 hr., 48-65 pesos)
Sat., May 28--Playa del Carmen to Cancun Airport--Reviera Line Dep. 8:00/Arr. 9:00, 106 pesos. Randy: Continental 1809 Dep. 10:56/Arr. San Antonio 13:41. Wes: Continental 365 Dep. 12:10/Arr. Houston 14:31, then Continental 2809 Dep. 15:30/Arr. Corpus Christi 16:19.
Sun. Mar. 27--Campeche
Mon., Mar. 28--Campeche
Tuesday, Mar. 29--Campeche to Palenque (p. 44)--ADO Line Dep. 11:00/Arr. 16:15, 266 pesos. Hotel: Hotel Posada Shalom
Wednesday, Mar. 30--Palenque
Thursday, Mar. 31--Palenque to San Cristobal de Casas (p. 37)--OCC Line Dep. 9:00/Arr. 14:05, 148 pesos or OCC Line Dep. 9:20/Arr. 14:10, 148 pesos Hotel: Posada Las Casas
Friday, Apr. 1--San Cristobal de Casas
Sat., Apr. 2--San Cristobal de Casas to Quetzaltenango (p. 139)--Bus to Ciudad Cuauhtemoc, OCC Line Dep. 7:00/Arr. 10:10 or Dep. 7:45/Arr. 10:55. 88 pesos; Cross border from Ciudad Cuauhtemoc to La Mesilla, 4km, Collectivo taxi, 10 pesos, or private taxi, 30 pesos, money changers on both sides of border; La Mesilla mototaxi, 3 pesos/Q2 to bus depot; then bus to Quetzaltenango, 3 1/2 hours, Q15 (Note: Can book van with travel agency for entire trip of 8 hours for 260 pesos.) Hotel: Casa San Bartolome
Sun., Apr. 3--Quetzaltenango
Mon., Apr. 4--Quetzaltenango
Tues., Apr. 5--Quetzaltenango to Panajachel, Lago de Atitlan (p. 117)--hourly, 3 hours, Q25 Hotel: Hotel Utz Jay
Wed., Apr. 6--Panajachel to Santiago Atitlan (p. 125)--boat, 35 min., Q20 Hotel: Cottage at Posada Santiago (Cottage Images)
Thurs., Apr. 7--Santiago Atitlan to San Pedro La Laguna (p. 125)--boat, 45 min., Q25 Hotel: Mikaso Hotel
Fri., Apr. 8--San Predro La Laguna
Sat., Apr. 9--San Pedro La Laguna to Chichicastenango (p. 131)--Boat to Panajachel, 45 min., Q25/bus, 5 daily, 1 1/2 hours, Q20 Hotel: Posada del Arco
Sun., Apr. 10--Chichicastenango (Sunday Market)
Mon., Apr. 11--Chichicastenango to Antigua (p. 102)--Bus toward Guatamala City to Chimaltenango/transfer onward (3 1/2 hours total) to Antigua. Hotel: Chez Daniel
Tues., Apr. 12--Antigua
Wed., Apr. 13--Antigua
Thurs., Apr. 14--Antigua to Guatemala City (p. 89)--Bus every few minutes, 1 hr. Q8. Hotel: Hotel Colonial
Fri., Apr. 15--Guatemala City
Note: Easter Week begins on Friday and continues through Sunday, the 24th.
Sat., Apr. 16--Guatemala City to Concepcion de Ataco (p. 305) via Border Crossing at Las Chinamas-Valle Nuevo and Ahuachapan: Frequent mini-buses from Guatemala City to Las Chinamas/Bus 263 from Las Chinamas to Ahuachapan, 40 min, 50 cents arrives at 8a Calle Poniente at the northwest coprner of Parque Menendez/Bus 249 from 10a Calle Oriente (one block forth of Parque Central) for Concepcion de Ataco, 15 minues, 35 cents
Sun., Apr. 17--Concepcion de Ataco to Juayua (p. 303)--Bus 249 from the corner of 2a Calle Oriente and 4a Av Sur, 30 min., 50 cents (Note: Go early and make room reservation because Juayua has a well-known weekend food fair and it is Easter week) Hotel: Hotel Anahuac
Mon., Apr. 18--Juayua
Tues., Apr. 19--Juayua to Chalchuapa (p. 301)--Bus 238 from a few blocks west of Parque Central to Santa Ana, 6 times p/day, 40 min., 50 cents; Bus 218, 30 min., 25 cents to Tazumal/Chalchuapa
Wed., Apr. 20--Chalchuapa to Santa Ana (p. 296)--Bus 218, 30 min., 25 cents
Thurs., Apr. 21--Santa Ana
Fri., Apr. 22--Santa Ana to San Salvador (p. 277)--Bus 201 to Metrocentro Stop (Directo: 1 1/2 hours, 80 cents/Especial: 1 1/4 hours, $1.25) (Good Friday). Hotel: Hotel Grecia Real
Sat., Apr. 23--San Salvador
Sun., Apr. 24--San Salvador (Easter Sunday)
Mon., Apr. 25--San Salvador to San Vicente (p. 308)--Local 9, 29, or 34 from city center or 29 or 52 from Blvd de los Heroes to Terminal de Oriente/Bus 116 from there--1 1/2 hr., 90 cents
Tues., Apr. 26--San Vicente to Alegria (p. 309)--Go to 6a Calle and 2a Av. to catch an eastward bus from Carretera Interamericana for Villa El Triunfo; tranfer there for Alegria--minibus toSantiago de Maria, 15 min., 30 cents/hourly bus to Alegria, 45 min., 60 cents
Wed., Apr. 27--Alegria
Thurs., Apr. 28--Alegria to San Miguel--Hourly bus for Santiago de Maria, 45 min., 60 cents/minibus for Villa El Triunfo, 15 min., 30 cents/Bus 377 for San Miguel, 2 hrs., $1.60
Fri., Apr. 29--San Miguel to Tegucigalpa (p. 342)--Bus 330 for El Amatillo Border Crossing, every 10 min., 1 1/2 hrs., $1.90/Honduras bus to Choluteca, 1 1/2 hrs., $2.10/Bus to Tegucigalpa, 3 1/2 hours, $2. Alternative: Spend the night in San Miguel, buy ticket Monday night at Esso Station, Av. Roosevelt at Ruta Militar, for the 8:00 Tuesday King Quality Bus from there, 5 hrs. $27
Sat., Apr. 30--Tegucigalpa
Sun., May 1--Tegucigalpa to Comayagua (p. 355)--Nortenas bus, 2 hrs., 9:00 or 10:00, 37L or Transportes Catrachos (station in sketchy area), every 30 min., 2 hrs., 38L
Mon., May 2--Comayagua to San Juan (p.384)--Bus from Comayagua to Siguatepeque, every 15 min., 1 hr., 25L/Bus from Siguateque to La Esperanza, every hour from front of Hospedaje Central half a block west of Parque Central, 50-55L/Buses from Transportes Carolina (called Punta Calolina locally) in eastern part of La Esperanza depart for San Juan at 11:00, 11:30, and 2:30, 1 hr., 40L, or take a pick-up to San Juan
Tues., May 3--San Juan to Gracias (p. 381)--Bus, 1 hr., 40L
Wed., May 4--Gracias
Thurs., May 5--Gracias to Copan Ruinas (p. 369)--Bus to La Entrada, then change to bus, every 40 min., to Copan Ruinas, Approx. 4 hrs., Approx. 125L
Fri., May 6--Copan Ruinas
Sat., May 7--Gracias to Chiquimula (p. 172)--Depart around noon--Minibuses and pickups depart every 25 min. or when full for Guatemala border, 20L/
Sun., May 8--Chiquimula to Puerto Barrios (p. 181)--Buses every half hour, 4 1/2 hrs., 40Q
Mon., May 9--Puerto Barrios to Livingston (p. 184)--Boat Lanchas at 7:30, 9:00, and 11:00 (Buy ticket as early as possible on day of departure), 30 min., Q30 Hotel: Garden Gate Hotel Photos
Tues., May 10--Livingston
Wed., May 11--Livingston to Rio Dulce (p. 177)--9:30 Boat Tour, Q125 one-way
Thurs., May 12--Rio Dulce to Flores (p. 191)--Fuente del Norte bus, 14 per day, 4 hrs., Q60/Wes arrives via bus from Belize City
Fri., May 13--Flores--Side Trip to Tikal
Sat., May 14--Flores to Dandriga (p. 250)--Bus (Transportes Pinita or Transportes Rosalita) from Flores to Melchor de Mencos (Border Crossing), hourly, 2 hrs., Q25/3 km hike to Benque Viejo del Carmen or taxi for BZ$10/Bus from there Belmopan, every 30 min., 1 1/2-1 3/4 hrs (local/express)/Bus to Dandriga, 2-3 hrs. Note: Stay overnight in San Ignacio or Belmopan if problems making whole trip develop
Sun., May 15--Dandriga (or Bus to Dandriga if problems develop on the 14th getting that far)--Side Trip to Hopkins (p. 253)--Bus departs at 11:30, 45 min., BZ$5; check on return bus
Mon., May 16--Dandriga to Placencia (p. 255)--5 buses per day beginning at 9:00, 2 1/2 hrs., BZ$10
Tues., May 17--Placencia
Wed., May 18--Placencia to Belize City (p. 225)--Hokey Pokey Water Taxi to Mango Creek at 10:00, BZ$10, walk 5 min up main street, turn left at gas station, wait in front of Sherl's Restaurant, hourly buses, 4 1/2 hrs., BZ$20
Thurs., May 19--Belize City
Fri., May 20--Belize City to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye (p. 234)--Hourly starting at 8:00, 1 hr., BZ$20
Sat., May 21--San Pedro
Sun., May 22--San Pedro to Orange Walk (p. 238)--Boat from San Pedro to Belize City, hourly starting at 7:00, 1 hr., BZ$20/Bus from main terminal to Orange Walk, hourly, 2 hrs., BZ$5/7 (local/express)
Mon., May 23--Orange Walk (Side tour to Lamanai, BZ$90--arrange upon arrival on Sunday)
Tues., May 24--Orange Walk to Corozal (p. 240)--Buses hourly from bus stop at corner of Queen Victoria Av. and St. Peter St., 1 hr. BZ$4. Go to dentist in Corozal or in Chetumal cross border tomorrow.
Wed., May 25--Corozal to Chetumal (p. 71)--Buses from Belize City to Chetumal stop in Corozal and wait at the border for processing, BZ$6-7. Notes: $19 US/BZ$38 exit fee to leave Belize. Go to dentist if didn't in Corozal
Thurs., May 26--Chetumal to Playa del Carmen (p. 63)--Bus, 5-5 1/2 hrs., 154-258 pesos (ADO bus at 8:30 or 10:30, 4 1/2 hrs., 226 pesos)
Fri., May 27--Playa del Carmen--(Side trip to Tulum--bus, 1 hr., 48-65 pesos)
Sat., May 28--Playa del Carmen to Cancun Airport--Reviera Line Dep. 8:00/Arr. 9:00, 106 pesos. Randy: Continental 1809 Dep. 10:56/Arr. San Antonio 13:41. Wes: Continental 365 Dep. 12:10/Arr. Houston 14:31, then Continental 2809 Dep. 15:30/Arr. Corpus Christi 16:19.
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