Saturday, Aug. 30, 2008--Istanbul (Contınued)
I went out later ın the evenıng than I have been goıng out. The lıghts strung across the walkıng street were on. There were many people stollıng. Several musıcıans had set up along the street to entertaın people. The best were a group of what I thınk were probably Russıan women playıng classıcal musıc and a group of Turkısh men and women playıng festıve Turkısh musıc. Both had bıg crowds. The Turkısh group had lots of gays and lesbıans ın the crowd, maybe because there ıs a gay bar ın the area wıth a raınbow flag out front.
I stopped at a restaurant across the street from my hotel for dınner. I had a potato-eggplant-beef stew wıth nıce Turkısh bread. That was around 21:00. Then I returned to my room for the evenıng.
Sunday, Aug. 31, 2008--Istanbul
Today ıs my last full day ın Istanbul. I went walkıng agaın. It has been wındy here every day sınce I arrıved. It ıs actually wındıer here than ın Corpus Chrıstı. But the breeze ıs a coolıng one that feels good wıth all the exercıse goıng up and down the hılls of the cıty. I had forgotten how hılly Istanbul ıs untıl thıs week of walkıng. My hotel ıs on top of one of the hıghest hılls ın town, so returnıng to ıt means a bıg clımb each tıme.
I walked back to the Old Town. I sat on a bench at the fountaın near the Blue Mosque. Several couples asked me to take theır photos wıth the fountaın ın the foreground and the mosque ın the background. Maınly, I just enjoyed the good weather and watchıng the people.
I ate a donor kebab (meat, tomatoes, lettuce ın a pıta bread) on my way back to town. I also bought some of the Greek cookıes I lıke that have a chocolate-hazelnut fıllıng and ate them. Then I returned to my room ın mıd-afternoon.
I spent a part of the afternoon plannıng my travels for the last around-the-world trıp. That raısed a number of questıons whıch I have trıed to answer here on the computer. I have a long lıst of possıble places I would lıke to vısıt, but pıecıng an ıtınerary together wıthın the tıght confınes of the new rules makes ıt dıffıcult. Also, ıt ıs just so frustratıng to try to go some places. I had thought I mıght go to Pakıstan to compare ıt to Indıa, but I don't want to pay $124 for a vısa to go there for just 3 weeks. Also, Russıa ıs a logıcal place to vısıt, but they charge $131 for a vısa AND requıre that you book a tour or hotels through a Russıan agency and provıde them wıth copıes of the voucher. What a hassle!! Anyway, I am thınkıng of goıng to some of the eastern European countrıes I have not vısıted (Bulgarıa, Romanıa, Moldova, and Ukraıne), to Morocco and/or Tunısıa ın northern Afrıca, to Nova Scotıa and Newfoundland ın Canada, etc. Wıll see.
I fınıshed readıng Eustace Chısholm and the Works by James Purdy. It ıs an older book (from 1967) that I bought at a book store ın Thaıland. I enjoyed ıt and gave ıt 3 stars out of 4.
Tomorrow, I fly to Georgia. I probably wıll not post agaın on my blog untıl I have found a cyber cafe on Tuesday.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Turkish National Day
Saturday, Aug. 30, 2008--Istanbul
Today ıs the Turkısh Natıonal Day. Flags are flyıng on the buses wıth huge ones hangıng from many of the taller buıldıngs. I went by the tourıst offıce to ask about celebratıons and was surprısed when the man essentıally dısmıssed my questıon by referrıng to ıt as a mılıtary celebratıon. I had fıgured that the stages and stalls I had seen goıng up all over town were for today's celebratıon. Apparently not, though. Ramadan begıns tonıght, so maybe they are for ıt.
There ıs a bıt too much evıdence of polıce and mılıtary here ın Istanbul. I know there has been some tensıon between the groups supportıng the contınuatıon of a secular state and the present government whıch ıs headed by a Muslım party. I don't know ıf that ıs the reason for so much show of force or what. Anyway, my day today started wıth my comıng upon a group of protesters on the walkıng street scatterıng as the rıot polıce pushed toward them. It's not as bad as Kashmır here ın Turkey, but ıt ıs obvıous that the polıce and mılıtary are out and watchıng.
I took a long cırcular walk ınto areas of the cıty I have not vısıted before. I went through parks, past museums, along the Bosphorus, past the cruıse shıp port, and along the waterfront of the Golden Horn. I returned to my local place to eat where I have gone now for three days. Today I had kofte--a stew wıth potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and fıngerlıngs of spıced, mınced meat. Agaın, ıt was delıcıous.
After sıttıng at the waterfront to watch the boys swım, the boaters clean and repaır theır boats, the locals rest and vısıt on the grass, etc., I returned to my hotel. There, I pulled out my Georgıa guıdebook whıch I have been readıng carefully each day and planned my ıtınerary for my vısıt there. I needed ıt so that I could ask that the room for me ın Tblısı be reserved for the other nıghts I would need ıt. After 4 nıghts ın Tbilisı, I wıll go westward to Kutaısı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Gelatı, to Borjomı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Bakurıanı, and return to Tblısı for 1 nıght. Then I wıll head eastward ınto the wıne country to Sıgnaghı for 2 nıghts, Gurdjaanı for 2 nıghts, and to Telavı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Alaverdı. That wıll gıve me just 2 more nıghts (one not complete, sınce my flıght departs at 4:40 ın the mornıng!) ın Tblısı.
I am glad I am out of Thaıland. The protesters there have closed the aırport for a couple of days, and ıt looks as ıf the government wıll topple. At least there does not seem to be the threat of a mılıtary coups thıs tıme around.
Today ıs the Turkısh Natıonal Day. Flags are flyıng on the buses wıth huge ones hangıng from many of the taller buıldıngs. I went by the tourıst offıce to ask about celebratıons and was surprısed when the man essentıally dısmıssed my questıon by referrıng to ıt as a mılıtary celebratıon. I had fıgured that the stages and stalls I had seen goıng up all over town were for today's celebratıon. Apparently not, though. Ramadan begıns tonıght, so maybe they are for ıt.
There ıs a bıt too much evıdence of polıce and mılıtary here ın Istanbul. I know there has been some tensıon between the groups supportıng the contınuatıon of a secular state and the present government whıch ıs headed by a Muslım party. I don't know ıf that ıs the reason for so much show of force or what. Anyway, my day today started wıth my comıng upon a group of protesters on the walkıng street scatterıng as the rıot polıce pushed toward them. It's not as bad as Kashmır here ın Turkey, but ıt ıs obvıous that the polıce and mılıtary are out and watchıng.
I took a long cırcular walk ınto areas of the cıty I have not vısıted before. I went through parks, past museums, along the Bosphorus, past the cruıse shıp port, and along the waterfront of the Golden Horn. I returned to my local place to eat where I have gone now for three days. Today I had kofte--a stew wıth potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and fıngerlıngs of spıced, mınced meat. Agaın, ıt was delıcıous.
After sıttıng at the waterfront to watch the boys swım, the boaters clean and repaır theır boats, the locals rest and vısıt on the grass, etc., I returned to my hotel. There, I pulled out my Georgıa guıdebook whıch I have been readıng carefully each day and planned my ıtınerary for my vısıt there. I needed ıt so that I could ask that the room for me ın Tblısı be reserved for the other nıghts I would need ıt. After 4 nıghts ın Tbilisı, I wıll go westward to Kutaısı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Gelatı, to Borjomı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Bakurıanı, and return to Tblısı for 1 nıght. Then I wıll head eastward ınto the wıne country to Sıgnaghı for 2 nıghts, Gurdjaanı for 2 nıghts, and to Telavı for 2 nıghts wıth a sıde day trıp to Alaverdı. That wıll gıve me just 2 more nıghts (one not complete, sınce my flıght departs at 4:40 ın the mornıng!) ın Tblısı.
I am glad I am out of Thaıland. The protesters there have closed the aırport for a couple of days, and ıt looks as ıf the government wıll topple. At least there does not seem to be the threat of a mılıtary coups thıs tıme around.
Friday, August 29, 2008
No Love Handles
Thursday, Aug. 28, 2008--Istanbul (Contınued)
I fell asleep ın my room ın the afternoon and napped for 1 1/2 hours ın a very deep sleep. I hate those nıght flıghts that create the problem that led to thıs nap. Now I am worrıed about whether I wıll sleep well tonıght.
In the evenıng, I went down the pedestrıan street and branched off on the sıde streets to explore. Most are narrow lanes lıned wıth sıdewalk cafes. It was fun seeıng people havıng tea, playıng backgammon, eatıng meals, etc. Thıs ıs a very socıal cıty.
Fınally, I returned to my hotel area and found a small kebab place ın a local neıghborhood across the street. I ordered an adana duram. That's a wrap ın a duram flat bread that ıs much lıke a flour tortılla. The meat was spıcy and grılled and was wrapped ın the bread wıth cılantro, garlıc, etc. On the way back, I bought a beer and a bottle of water to take to my room.
Frıday, Aug. 28, 2008--Istanbul
I notıced thıs mornıng that I have no love handles. Although I thınk I quıt losıng weıght several weeks ago, I am stıll followıng my dıet of one regular meal of the day and one snack. When I pull my hands down my sıdes, there ıs no lump as most people have and as I have had. It ıs smooth and contoured. There ıs stıll some fat, though, because ıt ıs about 1/2 to 3/4 of an ınch thıck when I pınch my sıdes.
I went back to the Old Cıty today. I walked a dıfferent route thıs tıme headıng toward the Topkapı Palace and the famous mosques near ıt. Arne and I had vısıted all of those when we were here on the cruıse, so I had no ınterest ın goıng back to them. But ıt was nıce to be among the gardens that connect them and to watch the tourısts. The mosques were actually closed for Frıday servıces when I was there, so I am glad I dıdn't want to see them agaın. I am sure there were some very dısappoınted tourısts who had planned on seeıng them today.
I returned to the restaurant where I ate lunch yesterday. Today I had a stew that consısted of beef chunks, tomatoes, zucchını, peas, peppers, etc. I ate ıt wıth slıced French-sytle loaf bread. Agaın, ıt was delıcıous and ınexpensıve.
I walked to a park along the waterfront and sat for a whıle relaxıng. Some young teenage boys were playıng around and occasıonally goıng ınto the water for a dıp. Two of them began wrestlıng at one poınt. Many men were there ın the park just relaxıng. Sınce Muslıms have theır prayers on Frıday, today ıs the equıvalent here of Sunday ın the West.
Whıle at the waterfront, a shoeshıne man trıed the dropped brush trıck on me for the second tıme sınce my arrıval ın Istanbul. They hang theır brush on the sıde of theır box ın a way that they can pull a strıng that releases the hold and the brush falls to the ground as they contınue walkıng. It's planned so that they can clean your shoes as ıf ıt ıs out of gratıtude, but then they want a large amount of money as payment. Fortunately, I know of the trıck. I just sat there as he contınued walkıng about 8 steps. Then he stopped, turned around, came back for hıs brush, and ASKED me whether I wanted my shoes cleaned. (By now he knew I was famılıar wıth the trıck or I would have called to hım about the brush.) I, of course, declıned. Besıdes, I was wearıng my sandals whıch are not polıshed but are oıled!!
After a couple of hours ın my room, I am headıng out agaın. They have been constructıng stalls and stages all over town thıs week. There wıll be entertaınment thıs weekend, and I thınk ıt starts tonıght. I wıll go to Taksım Square to see ıf anythıng ıs happenıng. Whıle out, I wıll fınd a snack for my dınner.
I fell asleep ın my room ın the afternoon and napped for 1 1/2 hours ın a very deep sleep. I hate those nıght flıghts that create the problem that led to thıs nap. Now I am worrıed about whether I wıll sleep well tonıght.
In the evenıng, I went down the pedestrıan street and branched off on the sıde streets to explore. Most are narrow lanes lıned wıth sıdewalk cafes. It was fun seeıng people havıng tea, playıng backgammon, eatıng meals, etc. Thıs ıs a very socıal cıty.
Fınally, I returned to my hotel area and found a small kebab place ın a local neıghborhood across the street. I ordered an adana duram. That's a wrap ın a duram flat bread that ıs much lıke a flour tortılla. The meat was spıcy and grılled and was wrapped ın the bread wıth cılantro, garlıc, etc. On the way back, I bought a beer and a bottle of water to take to my room.
Frıday, Aug. 28, 2008--Istanbul
I notıced thıs mornıng that I have no love handles. Although I thınk I quıt losıng weıght several weeks ago, I am stıll followıng my dıet of one regular meal of the day and one snack. When I pull my hands down my sıdes, there ıs no lump as most people have and as I have had. It ıs smooth and contoured. There ıs stıll some fat, though, because ıt ıs about 1/2 to 3/4 of an ınch thıck when I pınch my sıdes.
I went back to the Old Cıty today. I walked a dıfferent route thıs tıme headıng toward the Topkapı Palace and the famous mosques near ıt. Arne and I had vısıted all of those when we were here on the cruıse, so I had no ınterest ın goıng back to them. But ıt was nıce to be among the gardens that connect them and to watch the tourısts. The mosques were actually closed for Frıday servıces when I was there, so I am glad I dıdn't want to see them agaın. I am sure there were some very dısappoınted tourısts who had planned on seeıng them today.
I returned to the restaurant where I ate lunch yesterday. Today I had a stew that consısted of beef chunks, tomatoes, zucchını, peas, peppers, etc. I ate ıt wıth slıced French-sytle loaf bread. Agaın, ıt was delıcıous and ınexpensıve.
I walked to a park along the waterfront and sat for a whıle relaxıng. Some young teenage boys were playıng around and occasıonally goıng ınto the water for a dıp. Two of them began wrestlıng at one poınt. Many men were there ın the park just relaxıng. Sınce Muslıms have theır prayers on Frıday, today ıs the equıvalent here of Sunday ın the West.
Whıle at the waterfront, a shoeshıne man trıed the dropped brush trıck on me for the second tıme sınce my arrıval ın Istanbul. They hang theır brush on the sıde of theır box ın a way that they can pull a strıng that releases the hold and the brush falls to the ground as they contınue walkıng. It's planned so that they can clean your shoes as ıf ıt ıs out of gratıtude, but then they want a large amount of money as payment. Fortunately, I know of the trıck. I just sat there as he contınued walkıng about 8 steps. Then he stopped, turned around, came back for hıs brush, and ASKED me whether I wanted my shoes cleaned. (By now he knew I was famılıar wıth the trıck or I would have called to hım about the brush.) I, of course, declıned. Besıdes, I was wearıng my sandals whıch are not polıshed but are oıled!!
After a couple of hours ın my room, I am headıng out agaın. They have been constructıng stalls and stages all over town thıs week. There wıll be entertaınment thıs weekend, and I thınk ıt starts tonıght. I wıll go to Taksım Square to see ıf anythıng ıs happenıng. Whıle out, I wıll fınd a snack for my dınner.
Spendıng Correctıons/Room ın Georgıa
Specıal Notes:
Ajusted Spendıng Average: I made an error ın Chına when fıgurıng my number of days traveled. I had done a mıd-poınt average and when I dıd the fınal average I ıncluded the days for the fırst half twıce. That brought my average spendıng down per day lower than ıt actually was. I have gone back to correct the averages on that post and all the others sınce then. That means I have been averagıng $40.82 per day sınce leavıng Texas--an amount that ıs quıte a bıt hıgher than the past years. That ıs partıally due to spendıng more tıme ın more expensıve countrıes. It ıs also due to ınflatıon that has been occurrıng everywhere durıng the past year.
Search for Tblısı Hotel: My flıght to Tblısı on Monday arrıves at 16:25. That ıs late for lookıng for a place to stay, and Georgıa does not have tourıst offıces to help travelers. Therefore, sınce arrıvıng ın Istanbul, I have been wrıtıng to try to locate a room and reserve ıt. Out of about 8 e-maıls I have sent, only one has fınally replıed. But ıt seems to be a good one. It ıs for a prıvate room ın an apartment ın the old town and wıth a balcony, cable TV, and Internet for only $22.50 per nıght ıncludıng breakfast. I have just wrıtten back to ask that ıt be reserved for me. What a relıef to know that ıs out of the way!!
Wıll make a regular post later today or tomorrow.
Ajusted Spendıng Average: I made an error ın Chına when fıgurıng my number of days traveled. I had done a mıd-poınt average and when I dıd the fınal average I ıncluded the days for the fırst half twıce. That brought my average spendıng down per day lower than ıt actually was. I have gone back to correct the averages on that post and all the others sınce then. That means I have been averagıng $40.82 per day sınce leavıng Texas--an amount that ıs quıte a bıt hıgher than the past years. That ıs partıally due to spendıng more tıme ın more expensıve countrıes. It ıs also due to ınflatıon that has been occurrıng everywhere durıng the past year.
Search for Tblısı Hotel: My flıght to Tblısı on Monday arrıves at 16:25. That ıs late for lookıng for a place to stay, and Georgıa does not have tourıst offıces to help travelers. Therefore, sınce arrıvıng ın Istanbul, I have been wrıtıng to try to locate a room and reserve ıt. Out of about 8 e-maıls I have sent, only one has fınally replıed. But ıt seems to be a good one. It ıs for a prıvate room ın an apartment ın the old town and wıth a balcony, cable TV, and Internet for only $22.50 per nıght ıncludıng breakfast. I have just wrıtten back to ask that ıt be reserved for me. What a relıef to know that ıs out of the way!!
Wıll make a regular post later today or tomorrow.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Explorıng Istanbul
Aug. 27, 2008--Istanbul (Contınued)
I spent most of the rest of the day tryıng to stay awake. I wandered ınto lıght nappıng some, but I never went deeply to sleep. Later, I left the hotel and went to a nearby restaurant wıth only 3 tables on the sıdewalk. I hate cocoreç (kokoreç?) whıch ıs somethıng I have never had ın Turkey before. It was a sandwıch on a baguette wıth a fıllıng that consısted of mınced grılled meat and peppers. It was tasty, and there were hot peppers on the table to enjoy wıth ıt.
I fınally went to bed at 21:00. I was so tıred by then.
Aug. 28, 2008--Istanbul
I slept untıl 8:00, so that gave me 10 hours of sleep. I used earplugs much of the nıght, sınce I went to bed before the others ın the hotel and could hear a TV through the walls and because thıs mornıng I could hear a mosque and early sounds ın the hotel. Even though I slept so long, however, I stıll feel sluggısh today. I hate all-nıght and late-nıght flıghts!
The last tıme I was ın Istanbul was wıth Arne when we stopped here for a day on our cruıse we took out of Cypress. That ıs ın my mınd today, because I have walked through some of the places were we were on that day.
I left the hotel around 10:00 and went to the walkıng street behınd ıt. I saw a gallery exhıbıt and watched people eatıng theır breakfasts at sıdewalk cafes. Then I contınued down the hıll headed for the old town. When I got to the waterfront, there was a cruıse shıp docked where we had been docked several years ago. I walked across the brıdge we crossed and through a small market we had gone through. From there, however, I took a dıfferent path and saw new thıngs.
I went to the Kapalı Carsı, Istanbul's old covered bazaar, enterıng under an archway dated 1461! It's a beautıful buıldıng wıth arched walkways covered ın tıles. It ıs amazıngly clean and neat. And I fınd ıt fascınatıng that ıt has been a covered shoppıng mall for over 500 years! I wasn't ınterested ın shoppıng, so I was pleasantly surprısed by the fact that there were no pushy salesmen as there often are ın Turkey.
From there, I walked by Istanbul Unıversıty. It ıs a huge place wıth a fascınatıng gateway. Past ıt ıs a nıce neıghborhood whıch I explored. But after that I was gettıng tıred. I turned back toward my hotel takıng a dıfferent brıdge and route back.
On the way back, I saw an old neıghborhood off to the sıde. It had some very old wooden homes and a local shoppıng street. I went down the street lookıng for a place for a late lunch. I settled on a locanta, a local restaurant wıth pre-cooked food on a steam table ın the wındow. I asked for the dısh that had some chunks of meat and mostly eggplant, tomatoes, and other vegetables and spıces cooked ınto a sauce. It came to the table hot and wıth a basket of fresh slıced bread. It was such a nıce dıfference from what I have been eatıng for months.
I spent most of the rest of the day tryıng to stay awake. I wandered ınto lıght nappıng some, but I never went deeply to sleep. Later, I left the hotel and went to a nearby restaurant wıth only 3 tables on the sıdewalk. I hate cocoreç (kokoreç?) whıch ıs somethıng I have never had ın Turkey before. It was a sandwıch on a baguette wıth a fıllıng that consısted of mınced grılled meat and peppers. It was tasty, and there were hot peppers on the table to enjoy wıth ıt.
I fınally went to bed at 21:00. I was so tıred by then.
Aug. 28, 2008--Istanbul
I slept untıl 8:00, so that gave me 10 hours of sleep. I used earplugs much of the nıght, sınce I went to bed before the others ın the hotel and could hear a TV through the walls and because thıs mornıng I could hear a mosque and early sounds ın the hotel. Even though I slept so long, however, I stıll feel sluggısh today. I hate all-nıght and late-nıght flıghts!
The last tıme I was ın Istanbul was wıth Arne when we stopped here for a day on our cruıse we took out of Cypress. That ıs ın my mınd today, because I have walked through some of the places were we were on that day.
I left the hotel around 10:00 and went to the walkıng street behınd ıt. I saw a gallery exhıbıt and watched people eatıng theır breakfasts at sıdewalk cafes. Then I contınued down the hıll headed for the old town. When I got to the waterfront, there was a cruıse shıp docked where we had been docked several years ago. I walked across the brıdge we crossed and through a small market we had gone through. From there, however, I took a dıfferent path and saw new thıngs.
I went to the Kapalı Carsı, Istanbul's old covered bazaar, enterıng under an archway dated 1461! It's a beautıful buıldıng wıth arched walkways covered ın tıles. It ıs amazıngly clean and neat. And I fınd ıt fascınatıng that ıt has been a covered shoppıng mall for over 500 years! I wasn't ınterested ın shoppıng, so I was pleasantly surprısed by the fact that there were no pushy salesmen as there often are ın Turkey.
From there, I walked by Istanbul Unıversıty. It ıs a huge place wıth a fascınatıng gateway. Past ıt ıs a nıce neıghborhood whıch I explored. But after that I was gettıng tıred. I turned back toward my hotel takıng a dıfferent brıdge and route back.
On the way back, I saw an old neıghborhood off to the sıde. It had some very old wooden homes and a local shoppıng street. I went down the street lookıng for a place for a late lunch. I settled on a locanta, a local restaurant wıth pre-cooked food on a steam table ın the wındow. I asked for the dısh that had some chunks of meat and mostly eggplant, tomatoes, and other vegetables and spıces cooked ınto a sauce. It came to the table hot and wıth a basket of fresh slıced bread. It was such a nıce dıfference from what I have been eatıng for months.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Out of Indıa! Hello, Europe!!!
Tuesday, Aug. 26ö 2008--Mumbaı (Contınued)
I stayed at the hotel untıl 22:30, then I decıded to go ahead to the traın statıon. I changed to an auto-rıckshaw at Andherı Statıon and arrıved at the Internatıonal Termınal at 23:40. It was too early to check ın for my flıght, so I exchanged my leftover money consıderıng that I probably wıll not return to Indıa agaın. I fıgured my average spendıng. And I waıted.
Spendıng Update: (Note: I never wrote my update for Thaıland, so I wıll ınclude ıt here, too.) I spent $622.17 (not ıncludıng my dental expenses or my new aır tıcket) ın Thaıland over 18 days for an average of $34.57 per day. I spent $338.10 over 19 days ın Indıa for an average of $17.80 per day. Sınce leavıng Texas, I have spent $4612.97 over 113 days for an average of $40.82 per day.
Monday, Aug. 27, 2008--Mumbaı to Istanbul
Mumbaı Aırport ıs much nıcer than ıt was when I left here 2 years ago. They have completely rebuılt ıt and ıt ıs stıll beıng expanded. Gone are the mold and mıldew smells, the old and dırty look, etc. It ıs lıke aırports elsewhere. Wonder ıf ıt can stay that way? Unfortunately, however, there ıs not enough seatıng ın the outer area for people who arrıve earlıer than the check-ın wındows open for theır flıghts. And wıth most of the flıghts departıng between 23:00 and 5:00 each day, many people arrıve early. It was a bıt of a mad house out front. But ıt was nıce after gettıng past securıty, check-ın, and ımmıgratıon.
The aır trıp took 7 hours. We left Mumbaı about 5:30. I had not slept untıl then, so I trıed to sleep on the plane. I dıd some, but ıt wasn't easy. They served a warm breakfast (eggs, potato roll, fruıt salad, roll, butter, cheese, and jam. Later they served a sandwıch. But maınly, ıt was just the fact that I was ın an aırplane seat that I couldn't sleep well. We arrıved ın Istanbul about 9:15 Turkısh tıme.
Immıgratıon ıs a total mess at the Istanbul aırport. Instead of havıng a person stand at the front of the queue and dırect people to statıons one at a tıme to be processed, they let everyone push ınto long lınes for each statıon. Then frıends cut ın lıne. And people behınd push up ahead of you. It ıs a bad ıntroductıon to Attaturk Aırport.
I was frustrated when I got to my luggage. I took ıt through securıty ın Mumbaı before checkıng ın. They strapped a tıght band around ıt. But when I went to pıck ıt up someone had unzıpped my two sıde pockets and my expansıon pocket (thınkıng the latter was the zıpper to the bıg ınner compartment). Fortunately, I had nothıng of value ın the outer pockets and they could not get past the lock on the bıgger compartment. Therefore, nothıng was taken. But I went to Turkısh Aırlınes to complaın anyway. They need to know someone handlıng baggage ın Mumbaı ıs rıflıng through the luggage or that someone ıs goıng through ıt at the carousel here ın Istanbul before passengers get through ımmıgratıon.
Istanbul ıs so clean! And the aır smells so fresh!! It's nıce to be ın Europe agaın. Also, my hotel was a pleasant surprıse. I booked ıt because ıt ıs one of the few that has a dıscounted rate for sıngle people (other than chargıng them double the amount for a double room). On the Internet a couple of days ago I read some poor revıews of the place. However, ıt has been completely remodeled and ıs fresh and clean wıth cable TV and a prıvate bath. It also has free Internet. All that ıs only $26 per nıght. Not bad consıderıng the other places all wanted $50-75 per nıght.
I stayed at the hotel untıl 22:30, then I decıded to go ahead to the traın statıon. I changed to an auto-rıckshaw at Andherı Statıon and arrıved at the Internatıonal Termınal at 23:40. It was too early to check ın for my flıght, so I exchanged my leftover money consıderıng that I probably wıll not return to Indıa agaın. I fıgured my average spendıng. And I waıted.
Spendıng Update: (Note: I never wrote my update for Thaıland, so I wıll ınclude ıt here, too.) I spent $622.17 (not ıncludıng my dental expenses or my new aır tıcket) ın Thaıland over 18 days for an average of $34.57 per day. I spent $338.10 over 19 days ın Indıa for an average of $17.80 per day. Sınce leavıng Texas, I have spent $4612.97 over 113 days for an average of $40.82 per day.
Monday, Aug. 27, 2008--Mumbaı to Istanbul
Mumbaı Aırport ıs much nıcer than ıt was when I left here 2 years ago. They have completely rebuılt ıt and ıt ıs stıll beıng expanded. Gone are the mold and mıldew smells, the old and dırty look, etc. It ıs lıke aırports elsewhere. Wonder ıf ıt can stay that way? Unfortunately, however, there ıs not enough seatıng ın the outer area for people who arrıve earlıer than the check-ın wındows open for theır flıghts. And wıth most of the flıghts departıng between 23:00 and 5:00 each day, many people arrıve early. It was a bıt of a mad house out front. But ıt was nıce after gettıng past securıty, check-ın, and ımmıgratıon.
The aır trıp took 7 hours. We left Mumbaı about 5:30. I had not slept untıl then, so I trıed to sleep on the plane. I dıd some, but ıt wasn't easy. They served a warm breakfast (eggs, potato roll, fruıt salad, roll, butter, cheese, and jam. Later they served a sandwıch. But maınly, ıt was just the fact that I was ın an aırplane seat that I couldn't sleep well. We arrıved ın Istanbul about 9:15 Turkısh tıme.
Immıgratıon ıs a total mess at the Istanbul aırport. Instead of havıng a person stand at the front of the queue and dırect people to statıons one at a tıme to be processed, they let everyone push ınto long lınes for each statıon. Then frıends cut ın lıne. And people behınd push up ahead of you. It ıs a bad ıntroductıon to Attaturk Aırport.
I was frustrated when I got to my luggage. I took ıt through securıty ın Mumbaı before checkıng ın. They strapped a tıght band around ıt. But when I went to pıck ıt up someone had unzıpped my two sıde pockets and my expansıon pocket (thınkıng the latter was the zıpper to the bıg ınner compartment). Fortunately, I had nothıng of value ın the outer pockets and they could not get past the lock on the bıgger compartment. Therefore, nothıng was taken. But I went to Turkısh Aırlınes to complaın anyway. They need to know someone handlıng baggage ın Mumbaı ıs rıflıng through the luggage or that someone ıs goıng through ıt at the carousel here ın Istanbul before passengers get through ımmıgratıon.
Istanbul ıs so clean! And the aır smells so fresh!! It's nıce to be ın Europe agaın. Also, my hotel was a pleasant surprıse. I booked ıt because ıt ıs one of the few that has a dıscounted rate for sıngle people (other than chargıng them double the amount for a double room). On the Internet a couple of days ago I read some poor revıews of the place. However, ıt has been completely remodeled and ıs fresh and clean wıth cable TV and a prıvate bath. It also has free Internet. All that ıs only $26 per nıght. Not bad consıderıng the other places all wanted $50-75 per nıght.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Enjoying Good Indian Food These Last Days
Saturday, Aug. 23, 2008--Mumbai
I left my hotel around 9:00 a.m. I was glad to get out of there. To move, however, I had to shift my heavy things from my suitcase to my backpack. One of the wheels now no longer works at all. Since the rubber came off, the plastic deteriorated fast, and there is almost a whole worn in the case from pulling it along. Then I just carried the suitcase. It was still burdensome, but I managed. I just worry a bit about my final travels until I get to Copenhagen. In Georgia, I may be able to find a place where I can put what I need in the backpack and check the suitcase in Tblisi for several days while I am traveling around the country. For the trip to Lithuania which is after I arrive in Denmark, I will take only my backpack, I think, and leave the suitcase in Grethe's apartment while I am gone.
My new room is so nice. The manager remembers me from when I was staying here two years ago. He's a nice man who has been very helpful. The room itself is freshly painted and clean. There is satellite TV and a/c. It's just so easy to stay in the room and be entertained with my books and TV. For the most part, that is what I will be doing. There is nothing for me to see here in Mumbai that is new, so I will go out a while each day and then return to my room to pass much of the time there.
My neighborhood is a conservative Muslim one. Many men where white clothing with white headcaps. And most of them have long beards. But they are nice men who help me when I ask questions and are pleased when I eat in their restaurants and enjoy their food. Today, I went to one and had chicken biriyani. It was my first meat dish in a long time. And it was so good. They made it very spicy for me. The chicken was white meat. And the cost of the meal was 75 cents U.S.
I stayed in the room during the late afternoon and evening except for running out briefly to by me some snacks for dinner--two samosas filled with a spicy potato-vegetable mixture and one sweet samosa-shaped piece of dough soaked in honey. I watched The Chipmonks Movie on TV.
I finished reading Holy Cow by Sarah MacDonald. The opening is about her negative reactions to India when she goes there fresh out of college. She writes hilariously about it all. But 40% of the book or more is about her return 11 years later to be with her fiance who is assigned there for work. She goes on a spiritual exploration of all the religions of India and finds both good and bad in each as she adjusts to living in the country and tries to find her own beliefs. I gave the book 2 1/2 stars out of 4.
Sunday, Aug. 24, 2008--Mumbai
I decided to Walk to the Victoria and Albert Museum thinking I had not been there before. It is further away from the main part of town than most of the sites here. But when I arrived I recognized it immediately and remembered that it had been closed and under restoration when I had been there before. Next to it is also the zoo in the Victoria Gardens. I first went into the zoo, so happy that they were charging foreigners the same 5 rupees (12 1/2 cent U.S.) that they were charging locals that I didn't even ask for the free admission it said I could have for being over 60 years of age. There isn't much to see in the zoo, but it is a pleasant garden area. Also, I always enjoy watching the people in such places. Afterwards, I checked the museum. It was charging foreigners 10 times what it charges locals, so I decided to pass rather than let them gouge me.
Just outside the zoo, I stopped at a Muslim restaurant and had paneer masala. It was very spicy and delicious. And again, the people there seemed to appreciate that I would eat there and that I enjoyed the food.
Today is a Hindu festival day. There are trucks of young men driving all over the city. They wear t-shirts and shorts. People throw water ballons at them, getting them soaking wet. At certain places, the trucks stop and the men form tall pyramids so that the top person can reach a ball hanging from a line and hit it. Also, there are bands marching in the streets. Of course, eventually, it gets so wild that everyone is a target of the water balloons. I got hit on the leg, but it dried quickly.
Returning to my hotel, I took a different route and got lost temporarily. I knew I was in the neighborhood, but I had to ask directions several times. Somehow I had gone past my street. I think it occurred when I got caught in a traffic jam due to the Hindu celebrants and backed up and went a different way. Anyway, I stopped at a very nice bakery and bought a small box of special Indian sweets. And soon I was on my street and knew how to go to get to my hotel.
Monday, Aug. 25, 2008--Mumbai
I was up early. I took the train to town. We were crushed together to the point that it was hard to breathe. I went to the Thai Airlines office only to learn that it has moved to an area where I was on Friday. I went to the building there where I was told it is only to find that it has moved again, but this time only a few buildings away. Finally, I got there and got my flights confirmed for tomorrow night. I also got directions to Turkish Airlines which is flying those flights. I went there and got seat assignments for both of my upcoming flights with them.
Because of the crush getting onto the train, one of the pins on my watch got pulled off. The watch was hanging by only one pin. I passed a stand on the street where two men were repairing watches and cell phones. He had a pin and put it in for me. It cost 2 rupees--5 cents U.S.!
I returned to the restaurant where I had the cheap biriyani two days ago and had Afghan Chicken this time. It was a chicken breast battered in a soft egg batter (much like is used for chille relleno) and served in a dark, spicy sauce. I got rice to go with it. Ummm and only $1.25 U.S.! I'm going to miss my new "find" here in Mumbai when I leave here.
I'll go back to the room to enjoy the a/c, the satellite TV, and the book I am now reading for the rest of the day.
I left my hotel around 9:00 a.m. I was glad to get out of there. To move, however, I had to shift my heavy things from my suitcase to my backpack. One of the wheels now no longer works at all. Since the rubber came off, the plastic deteriorated fast, and there is almost a whole worn in the case from pulling it along. Then I just carried the suitcase. It was still burdensome, but I managed. I just worry a bit about my final travels until I get to Copenhagen. In Georgia, I may be able to find a place where I can put what I need in the backpack and check the suitcase in Tblisi for several days while I am traveling around the country. For the trip to Lithuania which is after I arrive in Denmark, I will take only my backpack, I think, and leave the suitcase in Grethe's apartment while I am gone.
My new room is so nice. The manager remembers me from when I was staying here two years ago. He's a nice man who has been very helpful. The room itself is freshly painted and clean. There is satellite TV and a/c. It's just so easy to stay in the room and be entertained with my books and TV. For the most part, that is what I will be doing. There is nothing for me to see here in Mumbai that is new, so I will go out a while each day and then return to my room to pass much of the time there.
My neighborhood is a conservative Muslim one. Many men where white clothing with white headcaps. And most of them have long beards. But they are nice men who help me when I ask questions and are pleased when I eat in their restaurants and enjoy their food. Today, I went to one and had chicken biriyani. It was my first meat dish in a long time. And it was so good. They made it very spicy for me. The chicken was white meat. And the cost of the meal was 75 cents U.S.
I stayed in the room during the late afternoon and evening except for running out briefly to by me some snacks for dinner--two samosas filled with a spicy potato-vegetable mixture and one sweet samosa-shaped piece of dough soaked in honey. I watched The Chipmonks Movie on TV.
I finished reading Holy Cow by Sarah MacDonald. The opening is about her negative reactions to India when she goes there fresh out of college. She writes hilariously about it all. But 40% of the book or more is about her return 11 years later to be with her fiance who is assigned there for work. She goes on a spiritual exploration of all the religions of India and finds both good and bad in each as she adjusts to living in the country and tries to find her own beliefs. I gave the book 2 1/2 stars out of 4.
Sunday, Aug. 24, 2008--Mumbai
I decided to Walk to the Victoria and Albert Museum thinking I had not been there before. It is further away from the main part of town than most of the sites here. But when I arrived I recognized it immediately and remembered that it had been closed and under restoration when I had been there before. Next to it is also the zoo in the Victoria Gardens. I first went into the zoo, so happy that they were charging foreigners the same 5 rupees (12 1/2 cent U.S.) that they were charging locals that I didn't even ask for the free admission it said I could have for being over 60 years of age. There isn't much to see in the zoo, but it is a pleasant garden area. Also, I always enjoy watching the people in such places. Afterwards, I checked the museum. It was charging foreigners 10 times what it charges locals, so I decided to pass rather than let them gouge me.
Just outside the zoo, I stopped at a Muslim restaurant and had paneer masala. It was very spicy and delicious. And again, the people there seemed to appreciate that I would eat there and that I enjoyed the food.
Today is a Hindu festival day. There are trucks of young men driving all over the city. They wear t-shirts and shorts. People throw water ballons at them, getting them soaking wet. At certain places, the trucks stop and the men form tall pyramids so that the top person can reach a ball hanging from a line and hit it. Also, there are bands marching in the streets. Of course, eventually, it gets so wild that everyone is a target of the water balloons. I got hit on the leg, but it dried quickly.
Returning to my hotel, I took a different route and got lost temporarily. I knew I was in the neighborhood, but I had to ask directions several times. Somehow I had gone past my street. I think it occurred when I got caught in a traffic jam due to the Hindu celebrants and backed up and went a different way. Anyway, I stopped at a very nice bakery and bought a small box of special Indian sweets. And soon I was on my street and knew how to go to get to my hotel.
Monday, Aug. 25, 2008--Mumbai
I was up early. I took the train to town. We were crushed together to the point that it was hard to breathe. I went to the Thai Airlines office only to learn that it has moved to an area where I was on Friday. I went to the building there where I was told it is only to find that it has moved again, but this time only a few buildings away. Finally, I got there and got my flights confirmed for tomorrow night. I also got directions to Turkish Airlines which is flying those flights. I went there and got seat assignments for both of my upcoming flights with them.
Because of the crush getting onto the train, one of the pins on my watch got pulled off. The watch was hanging by only one pin. I passed a stand on the street where two men were repairing watches and cell phones. He had a pin and put it in for me. It cost 2 rupees--5 cents U.S.!
I returned to the restaurant where I had the cheap biriyani two days ago and had Afghan Chicken this time. It was a chicken breast battered in a soft egg batter (much like is used for chille relleno) and served in a dark, spicy sauce. I got rice to go with it. Ummm and only $1.25 U.S.! I'm going to miss my new "find" here in Mumbai when I leave here.
I'll go back to the room to enjoy the a/c, the satellite TV, and the book I am now reading for the rest of the day.
Friday, August 22, 2008
India's Problems Competing with China and Trying to Develop
Wednesday, Aug. 20, 2008--Jaipur
I noticed today that I have had another small robbery. One of the locks on the outer pocket of my suitcase had been broken. It had to have happened within the last few days as I was traveling on buses. A book I was saving for Robert was taken, and my old air ticket (which was thick even though it was only receipt coupons) and probably seemed like something valuable that could be cashed in was also taken. My nice, new weatherproof jacket for traveling which was rather expensive was not touched even though it was in the same pocket!!
Have been compiling reasons why India cannot challenge China in development and why it is no threat to the U.S. for decades:
Poor roads that are poorly built and in bad condition without enough lanes for the traffic served.
Poor building construction. They age and crumble fast. Tinted glass discolors.
Inadequate electricity grid. There are frequent outages.
Poor water and sewage systems. Cannot meet modern standards.
Many unclean facilities including toilets, restaurants, buses, trains, etc.
Trash everywhere--on the streets, in the rivers, on empty lots, etc.
Disfunctional government with lots of paperwork (literally), unmotivated employees, etc.
Very limited and uncomforable mass transit in cities
Horrible traffic jams in cities
Very limited facilities to deal with flooding drainage during monsoons.
Too many strikes which interrupt business, education, and life.
Too many citizens who expect something for nothing.
A general attitude by individuals that they and their needs are more important than those of others.
Social system that promotes staying with family and discourages moving to where jobs are.
Too much discrimination/distrust based on religion and castes.
An effort to try to keep things as they are (protect farmers, protect small businesses, etc.) than let modernization and change happen.
No set prices. It's always more expensive for foreign companies and foreign residents/tourists.
Few child labor laws and the ones that are in place are for show; they aren't enforced.
Poor attitude toward girls and women who are often excluded from education and opportunities.
Poor government schools with teachers who don't feel they have to work since they are never fired and with too high of a ratio of students to teachers.
No mandatory school attendance laws, or if they exist, laws that are not enforced.
High birthrate which especially causes the population of the poor to grow exponentially.
Too many poor (too large a percentage of the population).
Am worrying about Mumbai. Hotel prices have really shot up there. I don't want to pay $50 or more for such a horrible city!!
Watched Evening with Claire Danes on TV, then ate dinner here at the hotel--vegetable kofta (veggie balls in a strong sauce)with naan.
Thursday, Aug 21, 2008--Jaipur to Mumbai
Discovered today that I get to San Antonio 3 days earlier than I had thought. I don't know how I got mixed up on the dates. Anyway, I arrive there on Oct. 6.
Walked to the train station, but it was hard. My suitcase is now lame. I had to cut the rubber off one wheel. Then the pastic remaining wore down fast. It's frustrating to have a suitcase that won't roll. Remember NOT to buy Delsey if you want a suitcase with good wheels!!!
They kept the train locked until 10 minutes before departure, so there was a mad rush of people to get onto it and get their luggage stored. Some couples carry enough baggage for a whole compartment! Fortunately, I was in my compartment first and had no problems.
My companions were a Korean young man who is traveling here, too, and 3 other men and 1 woman. The men were nice. Two were older and operate a construction firm. The other was young and works in his family's gem business by running the Mumbai office. All of them seemed to like me, so we had a good time visiting all the way to Mumbai.
I ate a poorly prepared dinner on the train. The others had snacks with them. We slept starting at 22:00.
Friday, Aug. 22, 2008--Mumbai
As expected, it was a hassle getting a hotel. I went to Andheri where I had been told I could get something for 1000 rupees. Every place there had a special sheet for westerners that showed rates of 2500-3500 rupees ($60-90 U.S.!). I caught a train back to town and went to the backpacker area. It is often booked up. And the places there are quite depressing. Just so I wouldn't have to deal with the suitcase, I took a room for 800 rupees that is dirty and depressing, has only a fan, and has no phone or TV.
I went to Lufthansa and checked on my flights. Everything is fine for leaving here, going to Georgia, and leaving Georgia for Copenhagen. I'm glad of that. Now I just need the Russians to pull out of the center of the country so I can go through the crossroads that is critical for getting into western Georgia.
After that, I returned to the hotel where I stayed two years ago. For 600 rupees, I can have an a/c room with cable TV and a private bath. It's a bit old, but it is clean. I can live there until I depart!! I will move there tomorrow morning.
I noticed today that I have had another small robbery. One of the locks on the outer pocket of my suitcase had been broken. It had to have happened within the last few days as I was traveling on buses. A book I was saving for Robert was taken, and my old air ticket (which was thick even though it was only receipt coupons) and probably seemed like something valuable that could be cashed in was also taken. My nice, new weatherproof jacket for traveling which was rather expensive was not touched even though it was in the same pocket!!
Have been compiling reasons why India cannot challenge China in development and why it is no threat to the U.S. for decades:
Poor roads that are poorly built and in bad condition without enough lanes for the traffic served.
Poor building construction. They age and crumble fast. Tinted glass discolors.
Inadequate electricity grid. There are frequent outages.
Poor water and sewage systems. Cannot meet modern standards.
Many unclean facilities including toilets, restaurants, buses, trains, etc.
Trash everywhere--on the streets, in the rivers, on empty lots, etc.
Disfunctional government with lots of paperwork (literally), unmotivated employees, etc.
Very limited and uncomforable mass transit in cities
Horrible traffic jams in cities
Very limited facilities to deal with flooding drainage during monsoons.
Too many strikes which interrupt business, education, and life.
Too many citizens who expect something for nothing.
A general attitude by individuals that they and their needs are more important than those of others.
Social system that promotes staying with family and discourages moving to where jobs are.
Too much discrimination/distrust based on religion and castes.
An effort to try to keep things as they are (protect farmers, protect small businesses, etc.) than let modernization and change happen.
No set prices. It's always more expensive for foreign companies and foreign residents/tourists.
Few child labor laws and the ones that are in place are for show; they aren't enforced.
Poor attitude toward girls and women who are often excluded from education and opportunities.
Poor government schools with teachers who don't feel they have to work since they are never fired and with too high of a ratio of students to teachers.
No mandatory school attendance laws, or if they exist, laws that are not enforced.
High birthrate which especially causes the population of the poor to grow exponentially.
Too many poor (too large a percentage of the population).
Am worrying about Mumbai. Hotel prices have really shot up there. I don't want to pay $50 or more for such a horrible city!!
Watched Evening with Claire Danes on TV, then ate dinner here at the hotel--vegetable kofta (veggie balls in a strong sauce)with naan.
Thursday, Aug 21, 2008--Jaipur to Mumbai
Discovered today that I get to San Antonio 3 days earlier than I had thought. I don't know how I got mixed up on the dates. Anyway, I arrive there on Oct. 6.
Walked to the train station, but it was hard. My suitcase is now lame. I had to cut the rubber off one wheel. Then the pastic remaining wore down fast. It's frustrating to have a suitcase that won't roll. Remember NOT to buy Delsey if you want a suitcase with good wheels!!!
They kept the train locked until 10 minutes before departure, so there was a mad rush of people to get onto it and get their luggage stored. Some couples carry enough baggage for a whole compartment! Fortunately, I was in my compartment first and had no problems.
My companions were a Korean young man who is traveling here, too, and 3 other men and 1 woman. The men were nice. Two were older and operate a construction firm. The other was young and works in his family's gem business by running the Mumbai office. All of them seemed to like me, so we had a good time visiting all the way to Mumbai.
I ate a poorly prepared dinner on the train. The others had snacks with them. We slept starting at 22:00.
Friday, Aug. 22, 2008--Mumbai
As expected, it was a hassle getting a hotel. I went to Andheri where I had been told I could get something for 1000 rupees. Every place there had a special sheet for westerners that showed rates of 2500-3500 rupees ($60-90 U.S.!). I caught a train back to town and went to the backpacker area. It is often booked up. And the places there are quite depressing. Just so I wouldn't have to deal with the suitcase, I took a room for 800 rupees that is dirty and depressing, has only a fan, and has no phone or TV.
I went to Lufthansa and checked on my flights. Everything is fine for leaving here, going to Georgia, and leaving Georgia for Copenhagen. I'm glad of that. Now I just need the Russians to pull out of the center of the country so I can go through the crossroads that is critical for getting into western Georgia.
After that, I returned to the hotel where I stayed two years ago. For 600 rupees, I can have an a/c room with cable TV and a private bath. It's a bit old, but it is clean. I can live there until I depart!! I will move there tomorrow morning.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Relaxing at a Nice Hotel
Tuesday, Aug. 19, 2008--Jaipur
I slept late this morning. I was very tired from the long day of travel yesterday. And my hotel is so nice that I just wanted to enjoy it. Actually, the hotel reminds me of a resort hotel of the kind that people used to take whole vacations just to stay at the hotel and relax. My room is big and has two seating areas--one with chairs and a coffee table and another with a rug, small short table, and pillows. Down the the lobby, there are computers for the Internet and newspapers in English to read. Out on the front porch which is surrounded by green gardens, there are 3 dining tables and two small tables with chairs where guests can either eat or just sit and read or have drinks.
I finished reading the classic book A Passage to India by E. M. Forster. It's a truly great novel set in the days of the British Raj. I saw the BBC/Masterpeace Theater production that was about 16 hours long 15 years ago or so. It followed the book faithfully except that the book did not include the torture scene the show had when Dr. Aziz was arrested. I gave it 4 stars our of 4!
When I finally went out in the late morning, I walked through parts of the old walled city. I had driven through it with Adnan before, but I wanted to see it up close. Essentially, it was much like the other old towns I have visited here in Rajasthan. Therefore, I just went halfway into it, turn to the left, and then went back out. I really didn't want to visit the palace or any of the other sites there, since they would be similar to places I have already seen.
I took a bus back down the long road that would take me near my hotel. We were packed like sardines. At one point, the thought of panicking came to mind from the crush. But I just breathed deeply and did okay. I couldn't get to the door when we came to where I wanted off, so I just stayed on longer. Finally, when I did move a bit toward the door so I could exit, a strange thing happened. A young man behind me said, "I hope you don't return to India." Suddenly there was a chorus of other voices asking, "Why?" Whatever the case, he probably will get his way. I doubt that I will return again. My passport is getting full of stamps and will probably have to be renewed before I travel next year. I won't pay to renew my Indian visa, since it is one of the most expensive ones. India is in its last days of opportunity for gouging me.
I returned to the hotel for the afternoon. I stayed in my room and read from my latest book. I got a call from Amit, one of my Internet friends asking if he could come to see me around 17:00.
Amit is a 22-year-old student working on his MBA degree. It is a "modern" Indian--about 2 m (6+ feet) tall and eager to lead a different life with success in work and with a break from some of the Indian traditions that have hindered young people here. We had written several times to each other and found that we had lots of common interests--reading good books, seeing foreign and independent films, listening to melodic music, etc. I ordered a pot of hot ginger lemon which we drank as we visited. He is very high on life and contributes his reading of Dale Carnegie books to it, saying that he used to be less optomistic.
When Amit left, I started to go out for dinner, but then I decided just to eat at my hotel. I ordered Dal Makhani and had it on the veranda. I think I have had the dish once before, but it was so good tonight. It is black lentils cooked with butter, peppers, etc., so that they are in a thick, creamy sauce. I had two pieces of roti flat bread with it. Ummmm.
Wednesday, Aug. 20, 2008--Jaipur
It's good I was unable to get my train ticket for going to Mumbai today. There is a nationwide general strike. Many planes, trains, buses, etc., have been halted. Some people have been stranded on trains that have been stopped and not allowed to go further. They must be miserable. I think even the workers on those trains are on strike.
I slept later than yesterday. The hotel is so quiet and comfortable. Then I watched TV news. Finally, I bathed around 10:30. Now it is noon and I am at the cyber cafe. I will eat a snack, then I will return to the hotel to read more this afternoon.
With that schedule, I passed my last chance to see the Taj Mahal today. I could have taken an early bus to Agra, seen the building, and taken a bus back this evening. But I just know going there will be a hassle. There will be touts to bother me, there will be a high admission price that is much greater than locals pay, etc. I can live a good life without having seen the Taj Mahal. Since I probably will not return to India again, that will likely be the case.
I slept late this morning. I was very tired from the long day of travel yesterday. And my hotel is so nice that I just wanted to enjoy it. Actually, the hotel reminds me of a resort hotel of the kind that people used to take whole vacations just to stay at the hotel and relax. My room is big and has two seating areas--one with chairs and a coffee table and another with a rug, small short table, and pillows. Down the the lobby, there are computers for the Internet and newspapers in English to read. Out on the front porch which is surrounded by green gardens, there are 3 dining tables and two small tables with chairs where guests can either eat or just sit and read or have drinks.
I finished reading the classic book A Passage to India by E. M. Forster. It's a truly great novel set in the days of the British Raj. I saw the BBC/Masterpeace Theater production that was about 16 hours long 15 years ago or so. It followed the book faithfully except that the book did not include the torture scene the show had when Dr. Aziz was arrested. I gave it 4 stars our of 4!
When I finally went out in the late morning, I walked through parts of the old walled city. I had driven through it with Adnan before, but I wanted to see it up close. Essentially, it was much like the other old towns I have visited here in Rajasthan. Therefore, I just went halfway into it, turn to the left, and then went back out. I really didn't want to visit the palace or any of the other sites there, since they would be similar to places I have already seen.
I took a bus back down the long road that would take me near my hotel. We were packed like sardines. At one point, the thought of panicking came to mind from the crush. But I just breathed deeply and did okay. I couldn't get to the door when we came to where I wanted off, so I just stayed on longer. Finally, when I did move a bit toward the door so I could exit, a strange thing happened. A young man behind me said, "I hope you don't return to India." Suddenly there was a chorus of other voices asking, "Why?" Whatever the case, he probably will get his way. I doubt that I will return again. My passport is getting full of stamps and will probably have to be renewed before I travel next year. I won't pay to renew my Indian visa, since it is one of the most expensive ones. India is in its last days of opportunity for gouging me.
I returned to the hotel for the afternoon. I stayed in my room and read from my latest book. I got a call from Amit, one of my Internet friends asking if he could come to see me around 17:00.
Amit is a 22-year-old student working on his MBA degree. It is a "modern" Indian--about 2 m (6+ feet) tall and eager to lead a different life with success in work and with a break from some of the Indian traditions that have hindered young people here. We had written several times to each other and found that we had lots of common interests--reading good books, seeing foreign and independent films, listening to melodic music, etc. I ordered a pot of hot ginger lemon which we drank as we visited. He is very high on life and contributes his reading of Dale Carnegie books to it, saying that he used to be less optomistic.
When Amit left, I started to go out for dinner, but then I decided just to eat at my hotel. I ordered Dal Makhani and had it on the veranda. I think I have had the dish once before, but it was so good tonight. It is black lentils cooked with butter, peppers, etc., so that they are in a thick, creamy sauce. I had two pieces of roti flat bread with it. Ummmm.
Wednesday, Aug. 20, 2008--Jaipur
It's good I was unable to get my train ticket for going to Mumbai today. There is a nationwide general strike. Many planes, trains, buses, etc., have been halted. Some people have been stranded on trains that have been stopped and not allowed to go further. They must be miserable. I think even the workers on those trains are on strike.
I slept later than yesterday. The hotel is so quiet and comfortable. Then I watched TV news. Finally, I bathed around 10:30. Now it is noon and I am at the cyber cafe. I will eat a snack, then I will return to the hotel to read more this afternoon.
With that schedule, I passed my last chance to see the Taj Mahal today. I could have taken an early bus to Agra, seen the building, and taken a bus back this evening. But I just know going there will be a hassle. There will be touts to bother me, there will be a high admission price that is much greater than locals pay, etc. I can live a good life without having seen the Taj Mahal. Since I probably will not return to India again, that will likely be the case.
Monday, August 18, 2008
My Flights Have Been Rescheduled!!!!!
Sunday, Aug. 17, 2008--Udaipur (Continued)
I went to the Udaipur Gardens, a large park in the city. It has a zoo, but it has the usual Indian dual entry fee--7 rupees for locals and 50 for foreigners, so I refused to enter. But I had my novel with me and just sat on a bench at a crossroads in the park and read and watched people entering and leaving. Eventually, I talked to two interesting people. One was a tourist from Spain. He had red hair and was a teacher. But he was leaving soon. And as he left, a Frenchman who happened also to be a teacher walked up and started talking. He was delightful. We visited for an hour, I guess. We both seemed to enjoy each other's company. He is 44 and married, but he was here without his wife. I gave him my card and invited him to visit me in San Antonio some day. He had been to the U.S. and had seen only Dallas in Texas. He suggested that I should make a stop in Paris on my next trip and see him again and meet his wife, especially since it has been about 8 years since I was in the city.
After thinking about my problems with my air reservations, I made a list of things to do. Then I returned to the cyber cafe and wrote Thai Airways. I had checked and the Mumbai to Istanbul flight was still flying, so I asked them to reinstate it. The flight from Istanbul to Tblisi was not available, so I told Thai I would come to their office when I arrive in Mumbai to see if it had been reinstated and to make alternative plans to go elsewhere if not.
Then I walked around the city. I went to the ghats, a set of steps beside one of the lakes to watch the sunset. I saw a man there who had been at the park earlier. We had not spoken then. I had assumed him to be Spanish because he had brownish skin and dark hair braided in a long pony tail. I approached him at the ghats and told him I remembered seeing him at the park and asked if he was from Spain. What a surprise when he said he is from the U.S.!! I never meet U.S. travelers, it seems. Anyway, he is half Chinese and half Irish-American. He lives in Oakland and just finished his master's degree in social work. His wife let him take two weeks to come to India to celebrate, since he has lifetime cheap flying benefits from Lufthansa Airlines where his father works. We talked about an hour. I really enjoyed it.
From there, I went to a rooftop restaurant with a view over the Jagdish Mandir Jain Temple at the center of Udaipur. It was dark, and the temple was lighted with colored lights. A recording of chanting was being played. I ordered Kashmire Biriyani and sat on the rooftop watching the temple and the people there. My food was quite a surprise. It was just rice with pineapple. I've had biriyani in Kashmire, and it is usually with raisins, cashew nuts, and a boiled egg. When I was paying and the man asked about the food, I told him the truth. They are so used to serving tourists who have never been to India before (Rajasthan being the first stop of most tourists coming to India) that I think he was surprised to find someone who has been to India 6 times and has actually been to Kashmire. He called the owner. They said for me to ask what was best next time. And they promised not to charge me next time if I didn't like the food. Of course, they knew there would never be a next time for me. What they didn't know is that I will probably write Lonely Planet and tell them about how bad the food was there.
I went to bed early, since I knew it would be an early day tomorrow and that I would have lots of traveling to do. I read for a while, then slept by 22:00.
Monday, Aug. 18, 2008--Udaipur to Ajmer to Jaipur
I was up at 5:00. And I left for the train station at 5:30. I'm having trouble with my Delsey suitcase I bought at Sam's Club. The wheels are not of good quality. They are the padded, layered kind rather than being like skateboard wheels. They are already wearing out on me. One axel seems to be bent. And the outer layer of the wheels are pealing off. This is the same problem I had with Samsonite before. So now I know TWO brands to never buy in the future. My suitcase drags a little because of the wheel problems, but I still pull it along.
The train trip was nice. I sat beside a pharmaceutical sales representative. We talked a lot until he got off the train. I think he could be a friend if I lived here in India.
At Ajmer, I got in line to buy my ticket from Jaipur to Mumbai. It would be easier while already at a train station than to go to the station later in Jaipur. As usual, Indians pushed in from the side. When I told the man at the counter that I had been in line before the man pushing in, he told me the man had been with the man in front of me. I told him he was not in line with the man when I got in line and that he had come up later--after me and after the man behind me. They didn't like this and insisted that he had been in line. I said, "Okay, I can see it's the typical Indian attitude that he thinks he is more important than anyone else and can walk up and say he is in line with someone who is at the head of the line. Go ahead and serve him since he is so important. I am sure he has things more important to get to than any of us who were in line before he came up. If he had been around earlier, he should have stayed in line." Then there was a stand-off. They wanted to serve me first. I said, "No, this whole matter has come up because he is so important. I insist that he be served first." It took a while. Finally, I gave in and bought my ticket first. I'm also sure they thought I was wrong and the other man was right. At least they learned that a foreigner will not always stand there and mumble under his breath as many often do as people cut in line. Anyway, I couldn't get my ticket for the 20th, which I wanted so I could get to the Thai Airlines office in Mumbai on Thursday and Friday. I had to wait until the 21st to go, since no seats were available until then.
I walked to the bus station in Ajmer and caught the next bus to Jaipur. I sat in the front row with a very tall young man who is an engineering student. The two of us hit it off, too. I've been lucky lately with meeting nice people and getting to know them. We talked almost the whole way. But there was also a young boy about 12 who liked me and ended up standing beside me the last half of the trip. He couldn't speak much English, but he kept communicating with expressive eye movements, sounds, and arm movements. He was cute and nice.
I was in Jaipur and headed to the hotel where I wanted to stay this time. I had walked only about 5 blocks. A motorbike came up to me. It was Adnan's oldest nephew and Adnan's youngest son!! They wanted to know what I was back in town for. What a surprise to arrive and meet someone I know! I told them I returned so I can go to Mumbai from here. Adnan is gone to work on the pipeline in Qatar now, but it was fun to see them. I'm sure they will tell him they saw me, and I have written an e-mail to tell him myself.
My hotel is a little more expensive and a LOT more attractive than were I stayed when I was here before. It is the Sunder Palace Guest House. From there, I came to town to eat and visit the cyber cafe. I ate a thali plate at a regular place--$1.25 for two chipatis, rice, two sauces, a potato curry, and a tomato curry.
GOOD NEWS!! There was an e-mail from Thai Airways. Both of my canceled flights have been reinstated. Since there is a ceasefire between Russia and Georgia, flights are resuming, I guess. I didn't want to miss Georgia. I think I will wish I had more time there. And it's wine season when I will be there. I'm so glad I will be able to go now.
Now, I am so tired. I must go to my room and rest well. I have no plans for tomorrow yet. I may just read and relax!!
I went to the Udaipur Gardens, a large park in the city. It has a zoo, but it has the usual Indian dual entry fee--7 rupees for locals and 50 for foreigners, so I refused to enter. But I had my novel with me and just sat on a bench at a crossroads in the park and read and watched people entering and leaving. Eventually, I talked to two interesting people. One was a tourist from Spain. He had red hair and was a teacher. But he was leaving soon. And as he left, a Frenchman who happened also to be a teacher walked up and started talking. He was delightful. We visited for an hour, I guess. We both seemed to enjoy each other's company. He is 44 and married, but he was here without his wife. I gave him my card and invited him to visit me in San Antonio some day. He had been to the U.S. and had seen only Dallas in Texas. He suggested that I should make a stop in Paris on my next trip and see him again and meet his wife, especially since it has been about 8 years since I was in the city.
After thinking about my problems with my air reservations, I made a list of things to do. Then I returned to the cyber cafe and wrote Thai Airways. I had checked and the Mumbai to Istanbul flight was still flying, so I asked them to reinstate it. The flight from Istanbul to Tblisi was not available, so I told Thai I would come to their office when I arrive in Mumbai to see if it had been reinstated and to make alternative plans to go elsewhere if not.
Then I walked around the city. I went to the ghats, a set of steps beside one of the lakes to watch the sunset. I saw a man there who had been at the park earlier. We had not spoken then. I had assumed him to be Spanish because he had brownish skin and dark hair braided in a long pony tail. I approached him at the ghats and told him I remembered seeing him at the park and asked if he was from Spain. What a surprise when he said he is from the U.S.!! I never meet U.S. travelers, it seems. Anyway, he is half Chinese and half Irish-American. He lives in Oakland and just finished his master's degree in social work. His wife let him take two weeks to come to India to celebrate, since he has lifetime cheap flying benefits from Lufthansa Airlines where his father works. We talked about an hour. I really enjoyed it.
From there, I went to a rooftop restaurant with a view over the Jagdish Mandir Jain Temple at the center of Udaipur. It was dark, and the temple was lighted with colored lights. A recording of chanting was being played. I ordered Kashmire Biriyani and sat on the rooftop watching the temple and the people there. My food was quite a surprise. It was just rice with pineapple. I've had biriyani in Kashmire, and it is usually with raisins, cashew nuts, and a boiled egg. When I was paying and the man asked about the food, I told him the truth. They are so used to serving tourists who have never been to India before (Rajasthan being the first stop of most tourists coming to India) that I think he was surprised to find someone who has been to India 6 times and has actually been to Kashmire. He called the owner. They said for me to ask what was best next time. And they promised not to charge me next time if I didn't like the food. Of course, they knew there would never be a next time for me. What they didn't know is that I will probably write Lonely Planet and tell them about how bad the food was there.
I went to bed early, since I knew it would be an early day tomorrow and that I would have lots of traveling to do. I read for a while, then slept by 22:00.
Monday, Aug. 18, 2008--Udaipur to Ajmer to Jaipur
I was up at 5:00. And I left for the train station at 5:30. I'm having trouble with my Delsey suitcase I bought at Sam's Club. The wheels are not of good quality. They are the padded, layered kind rather than being like skateboard wheels. They are already wearing out on me. One axel seems to be bent. And the outer layer of the wheels are pealing off. This is the same problem I had with Samsonite before. So now I know TWO brands to never buy in the future. My suitcase drags a little because of the wheel problems, but I still pull it along.
The train trip was nice. I sat beside a pharmaceutical sales representative. We talked a lot until he got off the train. I think he could be a friend if I lived here in India.
At Ajmer, I got in line to buy my ticket from Jaipur to Mumbai. It would be easier while already at a train station than to go to the station later in Jaipur. As usual, Indians pushed in from the side. When I told the man at the counter that I had been in line before the man pushing in, he told me the man had been with the man in front of me. I told him he was not in line with the man when I got in line and that he had come up later--after me and after the man behind me. They didn't like this and insisted that he had been in line. I said, "Okay, I can see it's the typical Indian attitude that he thinks he is more important than anyone else and can walk up and say he is in line with someone who is at the head of the line. Go ahead and serve him since he is so important. I am sure he has things more important to get to than any of us who were in line before he came up. If he had been around earlier, he should have stayed in line." Then there was a stand-off. They wanted to serve me first. I said, "No, this whole matter has come up because he is so important. I insist that he be served first." It took a while. Finally, I gave in and bought my ticket first. I'm also sure they thought I was wrong and the other man was right. At least they learned that a foreigner will not always stand there and mumble under his breath as many often do as people cut in line. Anyway, I couldn't get my ticket for the 20th, which I wanted so I could get to the Thai Airlines office in Mumbai on Thursday and Friday. I had to wait until the 21st to go, since no seats were available until then.
I walked to the bus station in Ajmer and caught the next bus to Jaipur. I sat in the front row with a very tall young man who is an engineering student. The two of us hit it off, too. I've been lucky lately with meeting nice people and getting to know them. We talked almost the whole way. But there was also a young boy about 12 who liked me and ended up standing beside me the last half of the trip. He couldn't speak much English, but he kept communicating with expressive eye movements, sounds, and arm movements. He was cute and nice.
I was in Jaipur and headed to the hotel where I wanted to stay this time. I had walked only about 5 blocks. A motorbike came up to me. It was Adnan's oldest nephew and Adnan's youngest son!! They wanted to know what I was back in town for. What a surprise to arrive and meet someone I know! I told them I returned so I can go to Mumbai from here. Adnan is gone to work on the pipeline in Qatar now, but it was fun to see them. I'm sure they will tell him they saw me, and I have written an e-mail to tell him myself.
My hotel is a little more expensive and a LOT more attractive than were I stayed when I was here before. It is the Sunder Palace Guest House. From there, I came to town to eat and visit the cyber cafe. I ate a thali plate at a regular place--$1.25 for two chipatis, rice, two sauces, a potato curry, and a tomato curry.
GOOD NEWS!! There was an e-mail from Thai Airways. Both of my canceled flights have been reinstated. Since there is a ceasefire between Russia and Georgia, flights are resuming, I guess. I didn't want to miss Georgia. I think I will wish I had more time there. And it's wine season when I will be there. I'm so glad I will be able to go now.
Now, I am so tired. I must go to my room and rest well. I have no plans for tomorrow yet. I may just read and relax!!
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Ups and Downs of Traveling
Wednesday, Aug. 13, 2008--Jodhpur to Jaisalmer
I was up early and ready to get out of Jodhpur. The room I had was just too depressing for me to want to stay there and see any of the sights. Plus, it seems that what there is to see in Rajastan is similar in each city.
I got to the bus station at 6:30, and there was a bus leaving then. It was a lucky occurrance, because there was a young Australian man on it, too, and we quickly became friends. Lindsay, 27 years old, is a former teacher who is traveling while waiting to see if he has been accepted into medical school. He has volunteered at Mother Teresa's Charities in Kolkata and was going to Jaisalmer for his last days before flying to Nepal for a month. We talked and talked and talked. It was quickly obvious that we were kindred spirits.
The trip was not without some adventure, however. The Hindus here in this part of India are wanting the government to give them free land, and they are wanting the land that currently belongs to Muslims. Therefore, there are problems. The Hindus have been blocking the transport of goods to Kashmir over this, and that gets most of the news coverage. But here in Rajastan, they have been calling strikes. They called a general strike for today from 9:00 until 11:00. Because we were on a remote highway, it didn't effect us until about 10:20 when we approached a town. The bus driver was told of the problem, so he tried to go around the road block before reaching it. He headed across just open land. (The land here is dry, crusty desert.) We were bouncing between homes and reached the streets of the town. He went through them to the other side of town and then turned out toward the highway again. But we got caught there. We had to wait until 11:00 before we could continue.
Jaisalmer is a wonderful city. It seems more like a place in Egypt rather than in India. There is desert all around, and the buildings of the town are all in a beige stone with lots of ornate stone carvings creating tiny grillwork to let the light in without letting the direct sunshine create problems with heat. There is a huge fort on a hill, but even the modern town looks old. The city requires all construction to be of that stone and to be in the old style (somewhat like Santa Fe in the U.S. does with the Spanish-style architecture). Lindsay and I went looking together for rooms. We found a clean, fantastic place and got rooms for only $2 per night including private baths.
One of the things to do in Jaisalmer is to take a camel safari into the dessert. I had not planned to do so, because I have taken a desert safari in Egypt and I have ridden exotic animals before. But Lindsay was interested in just the half-day safari. I decided to go with him, since the price was good and we were getting along so well.
Lindsay, a young Italian woman staying at our guest house, and I all set out around 16:00 in a jeep. We went to some old tombs called Barra Bagh outside of town. We went to a beautiful Jain temple at Lodurva. Then we arrived at the site for the camel ride. Lindsay and I rode together, because we got a discount on our trip for going together. Our two camels were led by local boys whose families owned them. We were riding on "Bob Marley" and Rosella was riding on "Bin Laden." We followed a trail through the desert and to the top of a large dune (pronounced "djune" by Australians). There we dismounted and enjoyed the view. Normally, there would be a sunset view, but today there were clouds. Of course there were the usual hawkers there trying to get money from the tourists for playing music, for having their photos taken in desert clothing, for selling drinks and snacks, etc. But we enjoyed ourselves and tried to stay away from them. After a while, we returned to the village on the camels and entered a resort where a buffet dinner was provided. It was good food that was a bit bland due to worries about tourists not liking spicy food, and they encouraged us to eat all we could. I especially enjoyed trying the desert roti (flat bread made with millet). The deserts were good, too. One was a mixture of old flat bread with sugar and spices.
Thursday, Aug. 14, 2008--Jaisalmer
Lindsay and I went to the Fort at 9:00. We spent 4 hours wandering through the streets, seeing the museum which is the former palace, and eating. (I had paneer cheese in a tomato-spice mixture.) We met a nice painter who does minitature Indian paintings and has an MFA degree. He talks so softly and does not put the hard sell on people. We both agreed that we would want him as a friend if we lived there.
Lindsay had a train reservation in the afternoon for Delhi where he will catch his flight to Nepal. I saw him off and will miss him.
Afterwards, things seemed a bit quiet. A couple of the hotel employees seemed to like me and we visited when they took breaks. I walked around town exploring other areas. I never found a cyber cafe at a reasonable price. They all were in collusion with a set high price, so I decided not to use any of them while there. A tailer asked if he could make a sketch of my zip-off leg travel pants so he could offer similar items to other travels, so I visited with him and he drew a picture and made notes.
I found a restaurant that was quite good. I ate a paper masala dosa (huge crispy pancake filled with spicy potato mixture with a coconut sauce and a spicy sauce served on the side). Ummm. And it was nice and spicy.
I just read in my room in the evening. I was asked to join a couple of the employees on the roof where Lindsay and I had joined them the night before. The air there is cool and it is pleasant to visit there. But I was tired and just stayed inside my room.
Friday, Aug. 15, 2008 (Independence Day in India)--Jaisalmer to Udaipur
I checked out of my room at 9:00, but my night bus wasn't until 2:30. The cleaning boy who was going to his village for a festival in the evening wanted me to give him money. I refused. Indians always seem to think that what others have should be theirs. To avoid more problems, I decided to stay away from the hotel until I had to return at 1:30 to pick up my luggage for going to the bus.
I returned to the fort and talked to the artist again. I toured a haveli, one of the rich merchant's homes. It was a school holiday, so I met some children and visited with them for a while.
I returned to the restaurant where I had eaten last evening. This time I had mutter paneer (peas and cheese in a sauce) with chipati flat bread. Again, it was spicy and delicious.
After getting my luggage, I walked to the bus station. It was all downhill, so there was no stress. And that way I avoided having to deal with a tuk tuk driver. I had reserved a sleeper. I was surprised at how nice it was--a long compartment with sliding glass doors. I had an upper sleeper, so it made it even nicer. There was also a sliding glass window that opened to the outside. It was my own private space. But trouble came soon enough.
This is not just Independence Day. It is also a 3-day holiday made up of a festival in which families get together and brothers and sisters exchange gifts. Everyone, like the cleaner at my hotel, is going home to be with families. A man from the bus company came onto the bus to tell me an an Australian woman in the compartment next to me that we could have the sleeper to Jodhpur, but then we would have to get off because others had reservations. Well, those of you who know me will know how I reacted. I had a ticket that showed that Seat M was mine all the way from Jaisalmer to Udaipur and that I would not leave. Soon the woman was going along with me. They tried every trick in the world. After originally telling us we would have to get off in Jodhpur and catch another bus in the morning, they told us they could put us on another bus with sleepers. Then they wanted us to get off and wait for the other sleeper which I am sure would have never come. We just told them they could put the other passengers in those sleeper beds on the other bus. They stopped for a rest stop and encouraged us to get off. We didn't budge. They offered for us to move across the aisle to a double sleeper, but then we wouldn't have had the right ticket and they could have kicked us off. We stayed put. I put my legs through the straps of my bags and I held onto the window bar in case they tried to physically remove us. I also said that I would expect someone to call the police if they tried to pull us off. The man was yelling at us, but we weren't moving. Finally they realized they couldn't win, since both of us were holding tickets that showed we had reserved the spaces for the whole trip. After Jodhpur, they never bothered us again. But what a hassle. And we never left our seats the whole time which meant we went 16 hours without going to the toilet or eating.
Saturday, Aug. 16, 2008--Udaipur
We arrived here at 5:00. The Australian woman and I took a tuk tuk to an area with lots of tourist hotels. The one we wanted, which has a pool, was undergoing remodeling. There was noise and the pool was not open for guests. But nearby was a totally new place that had just opened two weeks ago. We went there with its manager. The rooms are very clean with white marble floors and the baths are immaculate with nice tile and marble floors. We got a good price, but only one room was available at the time. She took it, and I waited on the rooftop until guests checked out later in the morning. I watched the sunrise, I read, etc. But I think they forgot me.
I went downstairs about 8:30, because they had said guests were checking out at 7:00. Sure enough, there was an available room. I went into it and immediately bathed. My face was oily and dirty; I think it was due to the people who had slept on the bus previously with greasy hair, since there were no sheets. Anyway, it felt good to get clean.
Udaipur is known as the white city. From the rooftop of our guest house, I saw the Lake Palace, the City Palace, Lake Pichola, etc. All rooms have views of some of these. The city is one of the famous cities in Rajastan where most tourists to India visit. That also means it is full of salesmen who will not leave the tourists alone.
I quickly became frustrated here. It is not possible to walk in the tourist areas without everyone from the shops trying to start a meaningless conversation. They want to know where you are from, if you are married, if you have children, etc. But it always turns into a sales talk wanting you to come to their shop for art, having a suit made, etc. I hate it and hate that it is impossible to avoid a hassle even if you try to pass them. It's as bad as it was when I was in Turkey. Therefore, I found myself being in a bad mood after a while.
I did visit the City Palace. It was an unusually good bargain for a tourist site in India. Everyone pays the same price to enter. The only drawback is that there is a high fee for using a camera. Since my camera was stolen earlier, I didn't have to pay that, so I saw the palace for only $1.25 instead of the $7.50 it costs with a camera. It was an interesting palace, too, with several special rooms with tiles, with mirrors, etc.
Restaurants all over Rajastan have English menus, but the owners never know the prices when figuring the bills. They have to consult the menus. Therefore, I am sure that the prices in the English menus are higher than the ones in the Hindi menus. Just another way they love to rip off the tourists here.
I tried to find a way to leave on a night bus or night train tomorrow, but there is none due to all the family members returning to where they live after this festival weekend. I bought a ticket for the train for Monday morning. And that only gets me part of the way to Jaipur. I will have to take a bus for the last two hours of the trip. Anyway, it is fine. I have things I can do here tomorrow that will allow me to avoid the hassles of the shopkeepers.
Sunday, Aug. 17, 2008--Udaipur
I just opened my e-mail and there is bad news. The airlines have canceled my flights from Mumbai to Istanbul and from Istanbul to Tblisi. I knew the problems in Georgia could potential cause me trouble, but why did they cancel my trip to Istanbul? Someone isn't thinking. Anyway, I have another hassle. I must contact Thai Airlines. Of course, they have no office here or anywhere I will be, I don't think. (They don't fly to Mumbai.) So I will have to call them and try to deal with it over the telephone. Yuck!
I was up early and ready to get out of Jodhpur. The room I had was just too depressing for me to want to stay there and see any of the sights. Plus, it seems that what there is to see in Rajastan is similar in each city.
I got to the bus station at 6:30, and there was a bus leaving then. It was a lucky occurrance, because there was a young Australian man on it, too, and we quickly became friends. Lindsay, 27 years old, is a former teacher who is traveling while waiting to see if he has been accepted into medical school. He has volunteered at Mother Teresa's Charities in Kolkata and was going to Jaisalmer for his last days before flying to Nepal for a month. We talked and talked and talked. It was quickly obvious that we were kindred spirits.
The trip was not without some adventure, however. The Hindus here in this part of India are wanting the government to give them free land, and they are wanting the land that currently belongs to Muslims. Therefore, there are problems. The Hindus have been blocking the transport of goods to Kashmir over this, and that gets most of the news coverage. But here in Rajastan, they have been calling strikes. They called a general strike for today from 9:00 until 11:00. Because we were on a remote highway, it didn't effect us until about 10:20 when we approached a town. The bus driver was told of the problem, so he tried to go around the road block before reaching it. He headed across just open land. (The land here is dry, crusty desert.) We were bouncing between homes and reached the streets of the town. He went through them to the other side of town and then turned out toward the highway again. But we got caught there. We had to wait until 11:00 before we could continue.
Jaisalmer is a wonderful city. It seems more like a place in Egypt rather than in India. There is desert all around, and the buildings of the town are all in a beige stone with lots of ornate stone carvings creating tiny grillwork to let the light in without letting the direct sunshine create problems with heat. There is a huge fort on a hill, but even the modern town looks old. The city requires all construction to be of that stone and to be in the old style (somewhat like Santa Fe in the U.S. does with the Spanish-style architecture). Lindsay and I went looking together for rooms. We found a clean, fantastic place and got rooms for only $2 per night including private baths.
One of the things to do in Jaisalmer is to take a camel safari into the dessert. I had not planned to do so, because I have taken a desert safari in Egypt and I have ridden exotic animals before. But Lindsay was interested in just the half-day safari. I decided to go with him, since the price was good and we were getting along so well.
Lindsay, a young Italian woman staying at our guest house, and I all set out around 16:00 in a jeep. We went to some old tombs called Barra Bagh outside of town. We went to a beautiful Jain temple at Lodurva. Then we arrived at the site for the camel ride. Lindsay and I rode together, because we got a discount on our trip for going together. Our two camels were led by local boys whose families owned them. We were riding on "Bob Marley" and Rosella was riding on "Bin Laden." We followed a trail through the desert and to the top of a large dune (pronounced "djune" by Australians). There we dismounted and enjoyed the view. Normally, there would be a sunset view, but today there were clouds. Of course there were the usual hawkers there trying to get money from the tourists for playing music, for having their photos taken in desert clothing, for selling drinks and snacks, etc. But we enjoyed ourselves and tried to stay away from them. After a while, we returned to the village on the camels and entered a resort where a buffet dinner was provided. It was good food that was a bit bland due to worries about tourists not liking spicy food, and they encouraged us to eat all we could. I especially enjoyed trying the desert roti (flat bread made with millet). The deserts were good, too. One was a mixture of old flat bread with sugar and spices.
Thursday, Aug. 14, 2008--Jaisalmer
Lindsay and I went to the Fort at 9:00. We spent 4 hours wandering through the streets, seeing the museum which is the former palace, and eating. (I had paneer cheese in a tomato-spice mixture.) We met a nice painter who does minitature Indian paintings and has an MFA degree. He talks so softly and does not put the hard sell on people. We both agreed that we would want him as a friend if we lived there.
Lindsay had a train reservation in the afternoon for Delhi where he will catch his flight to Nepal. I saw him off and will miss him.
Afterwards, things seemed a bit quiet. A couple of the hotel employees seemed to like me and we visited when they took breaks. I walked around town exploring other areas. I never found a cyber cafe at a reasonable price. They all were in collusion with a set high price, so I decided not to use any of them while there. A tailer asked if he could make a sketch of my zip-off leg travel pants so he could offer similar items to other travels, so I visited with him and he drew a picture and made notes.
I found a restaurant that was quite good. I ate a paper masala dosa (huge crispy pancake filled with spicy potato mixture with a coconut sauce and a spicy sauce served on the side). Ummm. And it was nice and spicy.
I just read in my room in the evening. I was asked to join a couple of the employees on the roof where Lindsay and I had joined them the night before. The air there is cool and it is pleasant to visit there. But I was tired and just stayed inside my room.
Friday, Aug. 15, 2008 (Independence Day in India)--Jaisalmer to Udaipur
I checked out of my room at 9:00, but my night bus wasn't until 2:30. The cleaning boy who was going to his village for a festival in the evening wanted me to give him money. I refused. Indians always seem to think that what others have should be theirs. To avoid more problems, I decided to stay away from the hotel until I had to return at 1:30 to pick up my luggage for going to the bus.
I returned to the fort and talked to the artist again. I toured a haveli, one of the rich merchant's homes. It was a school holiday, so I met some children and visited with them for a while.
I returned to the restaurant where I had eaten last evening. This time I had mutter paneer (peas and cheese in a sauce) with chipati flat bread. Again, it was spicy and delicious.
After getting my luggage, I walked to the bus station. It was all downhill, so there was no stress. And that way I avoided having to deal with a tuk tuk driver. I had reserved a sleeper. I was surprised at how nice it was--a long compartment with sliding glass doors. I had an upper sleeper, so it made it even nicer. There was also a sliding glass window that opened to the outside. It was my own private space. But trouble came soon enough.
This is not just Independence Day. It is also a 3-day holiday made up of a festival in which families get together and brothers and sisters exchange gifts. Everyone, like the cleaner at my hotel, is going home to be with families. A man from the bus company came onto the bus to tell me an an Australian woman in the compartment next to me that we could have the sleeper to Jodhpur, but then we would have to get off because others had reservations. Well, those of you who know me will know how I reacted. I had a ticket that showed that Seat M was mine all the way from Jaisalmer to Udaipur and that I would not leave. Soon the woman was going along with me. They tried every trick in the world. After originally telling us we would have to get off in Jodhpur and catch another bus in the morning, they told us they could put us on another bus with sleepers. Then they wanted us to get off and wait for the other sleeper which I am sure would have never come. We just told them they could put the other passengers in those sleeper beds on the other bus. They stopped for a rest stop and encouraged us to get off. We didn't budge. They offered for us to move across the aisle to a double sleeper, but then we wouldn't have had the right ticket and they could have kicked us off. We stayed put. I put my legs through the straps of my bags and I held onto the window bar in case they tried to physically remove us. I also said that I would expect someone to call the police if they tried to pull us off. The man was yelling at us, but we weren't moving. Finally they realized they couldn't win, since both of us were holding tickets that showed we had reserved the spaces for the whole trip. After Jodhpur, they never bothered us again. But what a hassle. And we never left our seats the whole time which meant we went 16 hours without going to the toilet or eating.
Saturday, Aug. 16, 2008--Udaipur
We arrived here at 5:00. The Australian woman and I took a tuk tuk to an area with lots of tourist hotels. The one we wanted, which has a pool, was undergoing remodeling. There was noise and the pool was not open for guests. But nearby was a totally new place that had just opened two weeks ago. We went there with its manager. The rooms are very clean with white marble floors and the baths are immaculate with nice tile and marble floors. We got a good price, but only one room was available at the time. She took it, and I waited on the rooftop until guests checked out later in the morning. I watched the sunrise, I read, etc. But I think they forgot me.
I went downstairs about 8:30, because they had said guests were checking out at 7:00. Sure enough, there was an available room. I went into it and immediately bathed. My face was oily and dirty; I think it was due to the people who had slept on the bus previously with greasy hair, since there were no sheets. Anyway, it felt good to get clean.
Udaipur is known as the white city. From the rooftop of our guest house, I saw the Lake Palace, the City Palace, Lake Pichola, etc. All rooms have views of some of these. The city is one of the famous cities in Rajastan where most tourists to India visit. That also means it is full of salesmen who will not leave the tourists alone.
I quickly became frustrated here. It is not possible to walk in the tourist areas without everyone from the shops trying to start a meaningless conversation. They want to know where you are from, if you are married, if you have children, etc. But it always turns into a sales talk wanting you to come to their shop for art, having a suit made, etc. I hate it and hate that it is impossible to avoid a hassle even if you try to pass them. It's as bad as it was when I was in Turkey. Therefore, I found myself being in a bad mood after a while.
I did visit the City Palace. It was an unusually good bargain for a tourist site in India. Everyone pays the same price to enter. The only drawback is that there is a high fee for using a camera. Since my camera was stolen earlier, I didn't have to pay that, so I saw the palace for only $1.25 instead of the $7.50 it costs with a camera. It was an interesting palace, too, with several special rooms with tiles, with mirrors, etc.
Restaurants all over Rajastan have English menus, but the owners never know the prices when figuring the bills. They have to consult the menus. Therefore, I am sure that the prices in the English menus are higher than the ones in the Hindi menus. Just another way they love to rip off the tourists here.
I tried to find a way to leave on a night bus or night train tomorrow, but there is none due to all the family members returning to where they live after this festival weekend. I bought a ticket for the train for Monday morning. And that only gets me part of the way to Jaipur. I will have to take a bus for the last two hours of the trip. Anyway, it is fine. I have things I can do here tomorrow that will allow me to avoid the hassles of the shopkeepers.
Sunday, Aug. 17, 2008--Udaipur
I just opened my e-mail and there is bad news. The airlines have canceled my flights from Mumbai to Istanbul and from Istanbul to Tblisi. I knew the problems in Georgia could potential cause me trouble, but why did they cancel my trip to Istanbul? Someone isn't thinking. Anyway, I have another hassle. I must contact Thai Airlines. Of course, they have no office here or anywhere I will be, I don't think. (They don't fly to Mumbai.) So I will have to call them and try to deal with it over the telephone. Yuck!
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Good and Bad Times
Saturday, Aug. 9, 2008--Jaipur (Continued)
Found a restaurant down the street from my hotel and ate Kodai Curry (tomato, onion, peppers, and paneer cheese in a curry sauce. Had it with roti--somewhat like flour tortillas.
Adnan, one of my internet friends, came by in the evening after having dinner with a friend and his (Adnan's) two sons. We visited briefly and made plans for him to pick me up tomorrow for touring the city.
Sunday, Aug. 10, 2008--Jaipur
I finished reading The Blue Bedspread by Raj Kamal Jha while waiting for Adnan. It's an interesting book that is a fast read. I gave it 3 stars out of 4.
Adnan arrived about 10:30. We then picked up Nadeem, one of his best friends who wanted to join us for the day. We toured the city of Jaipur, especially the outter areas that are difficult for me to see by walking. We saw the government buildings in one part of town, the old walled city, the Lake Palace, the Amber Palace, a fort that had a nice view of the whole city, and other sites. Afterwards, he took me to his home to meet his family. Then we went to his brother's restaurant and ate a late lunch--for me, chicken in a dark sauce with roti.
After resting for a while, Adnan returned to my hotel and picked me up for an outing with his friends. Every Sunday, about 8 of them go into the countryside to a summer house or farm home and cook dinner. Several of them have such homes, so the site varies. This one was a summer house about 12 km out of town. We picked up the other guys and all the supplies on the way. (All of them are married, but being Indian and also being Muslim, the guys go out on their own often without the women.)
To prepare the dinner, all of us worked on peeling the garlic. The cloves of many heads were peeled. We also peeled and sliced many red onions and several pieces of ginger. Then a couple of the guys took over the chore of cooking the mutton butter curry we were to have. They started a charcoal fire and put a large pot on it. They added the vegetables, the meat, and water and let it cook for a long time. In the meantime, the guys played board games, sang, wrestled, danced, etc. There was a wonderful grass lawn with soft grass, so I spent much of the time just lying there enjoying the softness. Later, one guy went to the side and opened a package of whole herbs he had brought and began grinding them on a stone. He worked a long time, and the smell was so wonderful . He said that the herbs are not add ed until toward the end of the cooking process. And the ghee (clarified butter) isn't added until the very end. They kept watch over the pot making sure the fire stayed high and waiting for just the right thickness to develop for the sauce.
Sometime in the evening, I was invited to join the father of one of the guys and his friends who had also come there to cook for the evening. They had fish curry with chipati bread (another flat bread). I took one small piece of fish curry and half a chipati just so I could taste it and keep my appetite for the mutton curry later. It was fantastic!
Our meal wasn't ready until 22:00. It had taken 4 hours to prepare. But it was so tender and so tasty. I've never enjoyed mutton so much. And the butter in the sauce made it so rich. I understood then why so many of the guys had rounded bellies!
It was fun to watch the guys. Being Muslims, they do not drink alcohol. But during the evening, they had so much fun. There were times when they let loose and an observer would have sworn they had been drinking, but they hadn't. They all seemed to like me, although many had limited English. I'm hoping I made a good impression as an American, since so many Muslims wonder about us these days.
I was tired when Adnan got me back to my hotel around midnight after dropping everyone else off.
Monday, Aug. 11, 2008--Jaipur
Adnan, who works on an oil pipeline in Qatar, is here on leave. He works 45 days and then has 28 days of leave for which they fly him home. So he was free again today and wanted to go on another outing. He picked me up late, however, since it had been late when we got back from the outing last night. We made a quick stop at McDonalds (his choice) for a vegie burger combo before our outing of the day.
We picked up his sister and went to the Raj Mandir movie theater. It is India's greatest cinema palace, so most tourists go to a film there. His sister wanted to join us because one of her sons is a screenwriter who has a film coming out in two weeks and the trailer for it was being shown. The cinema hall was wonderful. And it wasn't built until the 1970s. I thought the decor seemed more like the 1930s, however.
The film at the cinema was a comedy. Even though it was Monday afternoon, every seat in the house was full. And the audiance participated. They hooted, they laughed, they jeered, etc. Unfortunately, they also talked on their mobile phones, talked to each other, etc. I was able to follow the story of the film, Singh is Kinng.
I ate at my hotel in the evening. I had aloo ghobi (potato-cauliflower curry) with chipatis. It was good. While there, I visited with a couple from Barcelona who were also staying there. Afterwards, I continued to visit with them as I watched for Adnan to arrive.
Adnan picked me up about 21:30, and we headed out to pick up his friends from the night before. They had agreed to meet for tea at a roadside place. It is just an open area with huge tin cans that serve as seats. I treated the group to the tea, since they had invited me to their dinner last night. We all visited until about 23:30 when they ran out of tea. The question came up about 9-11. I was asked if it was true that 5000 Isrealis worked in the buildings and that all of them had been out that day. They have been reading all the conspiracy websites. I told them it may be true that 5000 Jews worked in the buildings, and it may be true that most of them were not there. But I pointed out that Jews did die in the building and that MOST of the employees were not there, since the planes hit the towers before the normal office hours when people would have been working. Then we all separated and went home for the night. I said good-bye to Adnan, since I wouldn't be seeing him again.
Tuesday, Aug. 12, 2009--Jaipur to Jodhpur
Today has been a disaster. First, I got up early hoping to get a bus at 7: 00. I arrived at the station at 6:50 only to learn that a bus left at 6:30 and that there wouldn't be another until 9:30. I waited and took it, but that meant I didn't arrive in Jodhpur until almost 17:00.
I had problems finding a hotel. And it was so humid that my shirt soaked through. Anyway, every place I went wanted too much money for what they were offering. A couple offered to come down to 2/3 of their original price, but I didn't feel like favoring someone who had just tried to cheat me so much! Finally, I settled on a place that I would rather not be. It is cheaper than I would have paid, but there was nothing worthwhile in the price range I would normally pay.
By that time, I was upset and thinking I would leave the city tomorrow. I went to the train station to see if I could get a ticket to even leave tonight, and my pocket was picked while I was at the station. I have definitely decided to get out of here by bus tomorrow morning. I have no more interest in this city at all. I will be a happy person without seeing anything here or spending another moment here.
Found a restaurant down the street from my hotel and ate Kodai Curry (tomato, onion, peppers, and paneer cheese in a curry sauce. Had it with roti--somewhat like flour tortillas.
Adnan, one of my internet friends, came by in the evening after having dinner with a friend and his (Adnan's) two sons. We visited briefly and made plans for him to pick me up tomorrow for touring the city.
Sunday, Aug. 10, 2008--Jaipur
I finished reading The Blue Bedspread by Raj Kamal Jha while waiting for Adnan. It's an interesting book that is a fast read. I gave it 3 stars out of 4.
Adnan arrived about 10:30. We then picked up Nadeem, one of his best friends who wanted to join us for the day. We toured the city of Jaipur, especially the outter areas that are difficult for me to see by walking. We saw the government buildings in one part of town, the old walled city, the Lake Palace, the Amber Palace, a fort that had a nice view of the whole city, and other sites. Afterwards, he took me to his home to meet his family. Then we went to his brother's restaurant and ate a late lunch--for me, chicken in a dark sauce with roti.
After resting for a while, Adnan returned to my hotel and picked me up for an outing with his friends. Every Sunday, about 8 of them go into the countryside to a summer house or farm home and cook dinner. Several of them have such homes, so the site varies. This one was a summer house about 12 km out of town. We picked up the other guys and all the supplies on the way. (All of them are married, but being Indian and also being Muslim, the guys go out on their own often without the women.)
To prepare the dinner, all of us worked on peeling the garlic. The cloves of many heads were peeled. We also peeled and sliced many red onions and several pieces of ginger. Then a couple of the guys took over the chore of cooking the mutton butter curry we were to have. They started a charcoal fire and put a large pot on it. They added the vegetables, the meat, and water and let it cook for a long time. In the meantime, the guys played board games, sang, wrestled, danced, etc. There was a wonderful grass lawn with soft grass, so I spent much of the time just lying there enjoying the softness. Later, one guy went to the side and opened a package of whole herbs he had brought and began grinding them on a stone. He worked a long time, and the smell was so wonderful . He said that the herbs are not add ed until toward the end of the cooking process. And the ghee (clarified butter) isn't added until the very end. They kept watch over the pot making sure the fire stayed high and waiting for just the right thickness to develop for the sauce.
Sometime in the evening, I was invited to join the father of one of the guys and his friends who had also come there to cook for the evening. They had fish curry with chipati bread (another flat bread). I took one small piece of fish curry and half a chipati just so I could taste it and keep my appetite for the mutton curry later. It was fantastic!
Our meal wasn't ready until 22:00. It had taken 4 hours to prepare. But it was so tender and so tasty. I've never enjoyed mutton so much. And the butter in the sauce made it so rich. I understood then why so many of the guys had rounded bellies!
It was fun to watch the guys. Being Muslims, they do not drink alcohol. But during the evening, they had so much fun. There were times when they let loose and an observer would have sworn they had been drinking, but they hadn't. They all seemed to like me, although many had limited English. I'm hoping I made a good impression as an American, since so many Muslims wonder about us these days.
I was tired when Adnan got me back to my hotel around midnight after dropping everyone else off.
Monday, Aug. 11, 2008--Jaipur
Adnan, who works on an oil pipeline in Qatar, is here on leave. He works 45 days and then has 28 days of leave for which they fly him home. So he was free again today and wanted to go on another outing. He picked me up late, however, since it had been late when we got back from the outing last night. We made a quick stop at McDonalds (his choice) for a vegie burger combo before our outing of the day.
We picked up his sister and went to the Raj Mandir movie theater. It is India's greatest cinema palace, so most tourists go to a film there. His sister wanted to join us because one of her sons is a screenwriter who has a film coming out in two weeks and the trailer for it was being shown. The cinema hall was wonderful. And it wasn't built until the 1970s. I thought the decor seemed more like the 1930s, however.
The film at the cinema was a comedy. Even though it was Monday afternoon, every seat in the house was full. And the audiance participated. They hooted, they laughed, they jeered, etc. Unfortunately, they also talked on their mobile phones, talked to each other, etc. I was able to follow the story of the film, Singh is Kinng.
I ate at my hotel in the evening. I had aloo ghobi (potato-cauliflower curry) with chipatis. It was good. While there, I visited with a couple from Barcelona who were also staying there. Afterwards, I continued to visit with them as I watched for Adnan to arrive.
Adnan picked me up about 21:30, and we headed out to pick up his friends from the night before. They had agreed to meet for tea at a roadside place. It is just an open area with huge tin cans that serve as seats. I treated the group to the tea, since they had invited me to their dinner last night. We all visited until about 23:30 when they ran out of tea. The question came up about 9-11. I was asked if it was true that 5000 Isrealis worked in the buildings and that all of them had been out that day. They have been reading all the conspiracy websites. I told them it may be true that 5000 Jews worked in the buildings, and it may be true that most of them were not there. But I pointed out that Jews did die in the building and that MOST of the employees were not there, since the planes hit the towers before the normal office hours when people would have been working. Then we all separated and went home for the night. I said good-bye to Adnan, since I wouldn't be seeing him again.
Tuesday, Aug. 12, 2009--Jaipur to Jodhpur
Today has been a disaster. First, I got up early hoping to get a bus at 7: 00. I arrived at the station at 6:50 only to learn that a bus left at 6:30 and that there wouldn't be another until 9:30. I waited and took it, but that meant I didn't arrive in Jodhpur until almost 17:00.
I had problems finding a hotel. And it was so humid that my shirt soaked through. Anyway, every place I went wanted too much money for what they were offering. A couple offered to come down to 2/3 of their original price, but I didn't feel like favoring someone who had just tried to cheat me so much! Finally, I settled on a place that I would rather not be. It is cheaper than I would have paid, but there was nothing worthwhile in the price range I would normally pay.
By that time, I was upset and thinking I would leave the city tomorrow. I went to the train station to see if I could get a ticket to even leave tonight, and my pocket was picked while I was at the station. I have definitely decided to get out of here by bus tomorrow morning. I have no more interest in this city at all. I will be a happy person without seeing anything here or spending another moment here.
Monday, August 11, 2008
Doing My Best to Improve Muslim/USA Relations
I don't have time for a full post today. I will post sometime tomorrow and bring the blog up to date. I'm making this brief post just so everyone will know I am fine and will not worry about the lack of new posts. I am in Jaipur. I have made friends here and am in a social whirlwind--sightseeing, making dinner at a farmhouse, going to the cinema, meeting at the coffee house, etc. They are all Muslims, so I am hoping, if they have had any doubts about Americans, that I am helping erase them. Will leave tomorrow morning for Jodpur and will post sometime in the afternoon after arriving there.
Saturday, August 09, 2008
Headed for Agra; Landed in Jaipur
Friday, Aug. 8, 2008--Delhi (Continued)
It was raining again when I came out of the EXPENSIVE cyber cafe with the SLOW connection. I didn't get to do half of what I wanted to do there. Since it was just a mess outside, I returned to Anil's apartment.
Anil arrived around 18:00. We watched the Opening Ceremonies for the Beijing Olympics. I've never been impressed with opening ceremonies. This one seemed better than most, but it still was a bit of a drag, I thought. And the marching in of the all the competitors just took way too long. We heated the leftovers from lunch and ate them during part of that.
Saturday, Aug. 9, 2008--Delhi to Agra (but really Jaipur)
When I awoke this morning, the skies were clear. I knew that Anil had some things to do, so I started thinking about heading to Agra. I've been thinking off and on that I would go there. For some reason, I didn't pack the part of my guidebook for there, so I have no maps, no hotel info, etc. But the nice weather made me decide to take my chances knowing that I could search for hotels, find my way around town, etc., without worrying about rainfall. Therefore, I helped rewire Anil's stereo system which he had gotten repaired, drank coffee with him, and then headed out for the bus station.
Just as the bus dropped me off at the Rajastan Transport Station, there was a bus exiting. The driver leaned out his window and asked where I was going. When I replied, "Agra," he motioned for me to get on. As we exited town, however, I kept seeing signs for Jaipur and not for Agra. I asked a fellow tourist on the bus if he had a guidebook with information and a map of Agra, and that's when I found out for sure that we were going to Jaipur. That's okay, however. I wasn't sure I wanted to go to Agra in the first place. And I had planned to come to Jaipur for sure. I can still go to Agra as a part of this trip if I want. Therefore, I am fine with being in Jaipur now instead of Agra.
I met two nice young men on the bus and visited with them the whole way here. One works for a textile manufacturing company as a textile engineer. He was coming here to check a pattern and do some repairs today. He will return to Delhi tonight on another bus that won't get him home until 6:00 tomorrow morning. He had lots of questions about American retailers such as Wal-Mart and the quality of the textiles they sell. The other is the son of a man in the military who lives in Delhi and is returning here for a weekend with his family before starting training for a new job with a telephone center next week. He will have 45 days of training before working for the company that provides contract services with companies offering mobile services. Both men were so young and enthusiastic about life. They were both very pro-USA, too. They are happy about the new nucear treaty between the U.S. and India. They are concerned about China's growing power and worry about its intentions, so they like having the U.S. as an ally to block any problems with China in the future.
I went to a guest house recommended by my guidebook which is now 8-9 years old. The place looked fine, however. I got a nice room with a balcony for $10 per night--about 12% more than what I would have paid last year for the same room, but India has been running a 12-13% inflation rate for the past year. I'm going to have to pay a bit more because of that and because the dollar has also fallen in value against the rupee in the past year (from about 44 to a dollar to about 40 to a dollar).
I've had a dry crusty area just above my lip on the right side for almost a week now. It peels off as a part of bathing/shaving each morning. But that leaves a raw area that is covered again with crust within an hour. It cracks when I smile. So I am very tired of it. I don't know if it is a fever blister or what; I've really never had a fever blister before, but I had a spot like this once before. I went to a pharmacy here and showed him the spot and described it. He sold me Boroline Antiseptic Perfumed Cream. I don't know if it is what I need or not, but I will try it.
The young men on the bus recommended several restaurants here in town. Since I haven't eaten today, I will now find one and have a good Indian meal. It's only 16:00, but I am hungry.
It was raining again when I came out of the EXPENSIVE cyber cafe with the SLOW connection. I didn't get to do half of what I wanted to do there. Since it was just a mess outside, I returned to Anil's apartment.
Anil arrived around 18:00. We watched the Opening Ceremonies for the Beijing Olympics. I've never been impressed with opening ceremonies. This one seemed better than most, but it still was a bit of a drag, I thought. And the marching in of the all the competitors just took way too long. We heated the leftovers from lunch and ate them during part of that.
Saturday, Aug. 9, 2008--Delhi to Agra (but really Jaipur)
When I awoke this morning, the skies were clear. I knew that Anil had some things to do, so I started thinking about heading to Agra. I've been thinking off and on that I would go there. For some reason, I didn't pack the part of my guidebook for there, so I have no maps, no hotel info, etc. But the nice weather made me decide to take my chances knowing that I could search for hotels, find my way around town, etc., without worrying about rainfall. Therefore, I helped rewire Anil's stereo system which he had gotten repaired, drank coffee with him, and then headed out for the bus station.
Just as the bus dropped me off at the Rajastan Transport Station, there was a bus exiting. The driver leaned out his window and asked where I was going. When I replied, "Agra," he motioned for me to get on. As we exited town, however, I kept seeing signs for Jaipur and not for Agra. I asked a fellow tourist on the bus if he had a guidebook with information and a map of Agra, and that's when I found out for sure that we were going to Jaipur. That's okay, however. I wasn't sure I wanted to go to Agra in the first place. And I had planned to come to Jaipur for sure. I can still go to Agra as a part of this trip if I want. Therefore, I am fine with being in Jaipur now instead of Agra.
I met two nice young men on the bus and visited with them the whole way here. One works for a textile manufacturing company as a textile engineer. He was coming here to check a pattern and do some repairs today. He will return to Delhi tonight on another bus that won't get him home until 6:00 tomorrow morning. He had lots of questions about American retailers such as Wal-Mart and the quality of the textiles they sell. The other is the son of a man in the military who lives in Delhi and is returning here for a weekend with his family before starting training for a new job with a telephone center next week. He will have 45 days of training before working for the company that provides contract services with companies offering mobile services. Both men were so young and enthusiastic about life. They were both very pro-USA, too. They are happy about the new nucear treaty between the U.S. and India. They are concerned about China's growing power and worry about its intentions, so they like having the U.S. as an ally to block any problems with China in the future.
I went to a guest house recommended by my guidebook which is now 8-9 years old. The place looked fine, however. I got a nice room with a balcony for $10 per night--about 12% more than what I would have paid last year for the same room, but India has been running a 12-13% inflation rate for the past year. I'm going to have to pay a bit more because of that and because the dollar has also fallen in value against the rupee in the past year (from about 44 to a dollar to about 40 to a dollar).
I've had a dry crusty area just above my lip on the right side for almost a week now. It peels off as a part of bathing/shaving each morning. But that leaves a raw area that is covered again with crust within an hour. It cracks when I smile. So I am very tired of it. I don't know if it is a fever blister or what; I've really never had a fever blister before, but I had a spot like this once before. I went to a pharmacy here and showed him the spot and described it. He sold me Boroline Antiseptic Perfumed Cream. I don't know if it is what I need or not, but I will try it.
The young men on the bus recommended several restaurants here in town. Since I haven't eaten today, I will now find one and have a good Indian meal. It's only 16:00, but I am hungry.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Delhi
Wednesday, Aug. 6, 2008--Bangkok (Continued)
Returned to my room and washed a couple of shirts and my shorts. Then I just relaxed inside the rest of the afternoon. Went to the area Night Market in the evening and ate fried rice with chicken for dinner.
Thursday, Aug. 7, 2008--Bangkok to Delhi
I had my last breakfast at the hotel today. I will miss them, but I imagine I have been gaining some weight while staying here and eating so much each morning.
I also finished reading Frankenstein by Mary Shelley. I had picked it up at my guest house in Mae Sariang and had been reading it slowly. It was quite interesting, since I have seen 2-3 of the movies but have never read the original source. As with so many stories, there was more to the book than has been in most of the movies. I gave the book 3 stars out of 4.
My experiment works. The bus stops at a number of bus stops on the way to the airport, including one near the MRT Subway Station at Asoke and Rama IX. It will make it easier to get to the airport in the future if I stay in the same area where I have been staying.
My plane arrived in Delhi about 30 minutes early. It was only about 60% full, so I had plenty of room to relax. I am staying with my friend Anil whom I've known a little over a year. He came to the airport to pick me up, but he wasn't there when I was ready to exit. I was surprised to find that there were three exits for passengers, so I needed to call Anil and make arrangements to meet at one of them. He has only lived in Delhi a few months, so he didn't know the international terminal and how it is arranged. Nikhil, a manager for Oberi Hotels was in the lobby and helped me. About 15 mintues later, Anil arrived where we had arranged. I saw him before he saw me. Soon his driver came around with the car and we headed out of the airport.
Anil has a nice apartment in southern New Delhi. It's in a gated compound and has high ceilings, terrazo flooring, two bedrooms, two baths, etc. We ate a snack and visited for a while. But he was tired from a long day of work (as a sales representative for an international power broker) and I was tired from my flight and the change in time zones.
Friday, Aug. 8, 2008--Delhi
Anil had to work today. But he did some work via computer from the apartment for the first part of the morning. His maid came and prepared lunch. He left about 10:30 and told me to have lunch later and then put the leftovers in the refrigerator. It was delicious--beans, rice, and a spicy vegetable.
I remained in the apartment much of the day. It is the monsoon season here, so there were rains. The TV reported some heavy flooding in the downtown area. Out here, there are some big puddles along the sides of the streets, but the rain hasn't been that heavy. I am now across the street at a cyber cafe. It's more expensive than I am used to using, so I will have to find another one before I post again.
Returned to my room and washed a couple of shirts and my shorts. Then I just relaxed inside the rest of the afternoon. Went to the area Night Market in the evening and ate fried rice with chicken for dinner.
Thursday, Aug. 7, 2008--Bangkok to Delhi
I had my last breakfast at the hotel today. I will miss them, but I imagine I have been gaining some weight while staying here and eating so much each morning.
I also finished reading Frankenstein by Mary Shelley. I had picked it up at my guest house in Mae Sariang and had been reading it slowly. It was quite interesting, since I have seen 2-3 of the movies but have never read the original source. As with so many stories, there was more to the book than has been in most of the movies. I gave the book 3 stars out of 4.
My experiment works. The bus stops at a number of bus stops on the way to the airport, including one near the MRT Subway Station at Asoke and Rama IX. It will make it easier to get to the airport in the future if I stay in the same area where I have been staying.
My plane arrived in Delhi about 30 minutes early. It was only about 60% full, so I had plenty of room to relax. I am staying with my friend Anil whom I've known a little over a year. He came to the airport to pick me up, but he wasn't there when I was ready to exit. I was surprised to find that there were three exits for passengers, so I needed to call Anil and make arrangements to meet at one of them. He has only lived in Delhi a few months, so he didn't know the international terminal and how it is arranged. Nikhil, a manager for Oberi Hotels was in the lobby and helped me. About 15 mintues later, Anil arrived where we had arranged. I saw him before he saw me. Soon his driver came around with the car and we headed out of the airport.
Anil has a nice apartment in southern New Delhi. It's in a gated compound and has high ceilings, terrazo flooring, two bedrooms, two baths, etc. We ate a snack and visited for a while. But he was tired from a long day of work (as a sales representative for an international power broker) and I was tired from my flight and the change in time zones.
Friday, Aug. 8, 2008--Delhi
Anil had to work today. But he did some work via computer from the apartment for the first part of the morning. His maid came and prepared lunch. He left about 10:30 and told me to have lunch later and then put the leftovers in the refrigerator. It was delicious--beans, rice, and a spicy vegetable.
I remained in the apartment much of the day. It is the monsoon season here, so there were rains. The TV reported some heavy flooding in the downtown area. Out here, there are some big puddles along the sides of the streets, but the rain hasn't been that heavy. I am now across the street at a cyber cafe. It's more expensive than I am used to using, so I will have to find another one before I post again.
Wednesday, August 06, 2008
ATW IX Starts Tomorrow
Wednesday, Aug. 6, 2008--Bangkok
Today is my last full day in Bangkok. I went to the main shopping area hoping to see a film. One that I wanted to see is not showing. Another that would have been acceptable wasn't scheduled until 14:30. I went to the IMAX to consider seeing The Dark Knight, and it had just started at 11:00 (and it was then 11:15). So I gave up and left the area. I will just relax today. I'll probably return to my hotel this afternoon and go up to the pool to read and occasionally cool off in the water.
I dreamed about Arne last night. Because he was on my mind, I was thinking about him at breakfast today. He would have truly loved having breakfast at my hotel. They have whole grain breads, brown bread, butter, jams, fruits, yogurts, Asian dishes, French toast, eggs of various kinds, ham, bacon, sausages, etc. Even the coffee would be dark enough to please him, I think.
I won't connect to the Internet tomorrow. I will stay at the hotel until noon when I will check out. Then I will head to the airport. I think I will experiment to see if I can take the subway to a stop where the airport bus passes and see if I can get it to pick me up there by the subway stop. I know it has stopped to pick up passengers before when I have taken it from Victory Circle to the Airport. My flight isn't until 17:45, so if the bus doesn't stop for me, I can still take a bus to Victory Circle and switch to the airport bus with plenty of time for getting to my flight. By the way, the bus let me off at the subway stop coming INTO town from the airport, so that is another reason why I think I could get it to stop for me on the way out.
Today is my last full day in Bangkok. I went to the main shopping area hoping to see a film. One that I wanted to see is not showing. Another that would have been acceptable wasn't scheduled until 14:30. I went to the IMAX to consider seeing The Dark Knight, and it had just started at 11:00 (and it was then 11:15). So I gave up and left the area. I will just relax today. I'll probably return to my hotel this afternoon and go up to the pool to read and occasionally cool off in the water.
I dreamed about Arne last night. Because he was on my mind, I was thinking about him at breakfast today. He would have truly loved having breakfast at my hotel. They have whole grain breads, brown bread, butter, jams, fruits, yogurts, Asian dishes, French toast, eggs of various kinds, ham, bacon, sausages, etc. Even the coffee would be dark enough to please him, I think.
I won't connect to the Internet tomorrow. I will stay at the hotel until noon when I will check out. Then I will head to the airport. I think I will experiment to see if I can take the subway to a stop where the airport bus passes and see if I can get it to pick me up there by the subway stop. I know it has stopped to pick up passengers before when I have taken it from Victory Circle to the Airport. My flight isn't until 17:45, so if the bus doesn't stop for me, I can still take a bus to Victory Circle and switch to the airport bus with plenty of time for getting to my flight. By the way, the bus let me off at the subway stop coming INTO town from the airport, so that is another reason why I think I could get it to stop for me on the way out.
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Final Days in Bangkok
Sunday, Aug. 3, 2008--Bangkok (Continued)
After posting in the morning, I took the bus out to the weekend market. It's a popular place for tourists, and I usually go out there for a while each time I am here. It's a good place to watch people. As usual, it was HOT there. I wandered the stalls for a while, but I wasn't really shopping. The most fun was going through the pets area where I could see (and touch) the dogs, cats, birds, rabbits, etc. It wasn't just me who was interested in them. That area consistantly has people stopping at the stalls to look and interact.
The bus back to town was slow as usual. It goes through the major shopping district of Bangkok, and traffic is so heavy going there on Sunday afternoon that it always stalls. Bangkok is known for its traffic jams anyway, and my return trip took about 2 hours vs. the 30-45 minutes it took to go out to the market along the same route in the morning.
I went to the Silom Sauna which is in the neighborhood behind my hotel. It's the same sauna I visited last year and is much better than the one I visited a couple of days ago. It has a bigger pool, more seating area, more personalized service, a wider range of ages among its clientelle, etc. I stayed for over three hours.
On the way home, I stopped at a street stall and had some HOT noodle soup. I didn't realize it was already so spicy, so I added some crushed red pepper. Wow! My nose was running and my eyes watering by the time I finished it.
Monday, Aug. 4, 2008--Bangkok
Turkish Airlines has an add on TV now that shows them rolling out a red carpet for individual customers. Well, I didn't find the red carpet when I went to their office today. I wanted to get a seat for my flight from Mumbai to Istanbul on Aug. 18, but I found out that they do not allow seat assignments until one week before a flight. Also, they do not offer economy extra or plus for customers who buy full-fare tickets and/or are classified as elite in the frequent flyer programs of the Star Alliance.
I also went to the offices of Lufthansa and Swiss. I got my seats with Swiss. But Lufthansa classifies its flight from Georgia to Munich as a European flight (even though Georgia is north of the Middle East and the flight is several hours long). Therefore, they would not let me reserve a seat. (Like most European airlines, they do not allow economy seats to be reserved in advance for non-international flights.)
While in the area, I went to the RCA Cinema, an additional complex that has foreign films. I seldom go there, because it is rather far away from where I usually am. Anyway, I saw the film A Year without Love. I had read the book, so I remembered much of the story.
I returned to the restaurant where I had such a good meal two days ago for my dinner. This time, I had a similar dish to what I had before, but it was with pork instead of with chicken.
Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2008--Bangkok
I returned to the north side of Bangkok today to find the Center for the Blind. Sure enough, it was where I expected it to be. I had to go a bit out of my way getting there due to bad directions, but when I reached it, it was very near to where I had already decided it should be on the map.
The massages there are a bargain--120 baht for the fan room and 160 baht for the a/c room. That's for a 1 1/2 hour Thai massage--a massage that is mostly built on pressure points. The man who gave me mine was excellent. He paid close attention to what he was doing and was firm, but tender enough not to hurt. Because it is so far north of town, the trip took 6 hours including the massage.
I got off the boat at River Center Mall, the mall that specializes in Asian antiques here in Bangkok. It is just down the street from my former hotel and from where I like to use the Internet. Now that I am finished with the computer, I will eat in the neighborhood before heading back to my hotel for the night.
Tomorrow is my last full day in Bangkok. I've stayed very busy here this time, often being gone from my hotel whole days at a time. Tomorrow, I will return to the main shopping area to see one last film if all goes well.
After posting in the morning, I took the bus out to the weekend market. It's a popular place for tourists, and I usually go out there for a while each time I am here. It's a good place to watch people. As usual, it was HOT there. I wandered the stalls for a while, but I wasn't really shopping. The most fun was going through the pets area where I could see (and touch) the dogs, cats, birds, rabbits, etc. It wasn't just me who was interested in them. That area consistantly has people stopping at the stalls to look and interact.
The bus back to town was slow as usual. It goes through the major shopping district of Bangkok, and traffic is so heavy going there on Sunday afternoon that it always stalls. Bangkok is known for its traffic jams anyway, and my return trip took about 2 hours vs. the 30-45 minutes it took to go out to the market along the same route in the morning.
I went to the Silom Sauna which is in the neighborhood behind my hotel. It's the same sauna I visited last year and is much better than the one I visited a couple of days ago. It has a bigger pool, more seating area, more personalized service, a wider range of ages among its clientelle, etc. I stayed for over three hours.
On the way home, I stopped at a street stall and had some HOT noodle soup. I didn't realize it was already so spicy, so I added some crushed red pepper. Wow! My nose was running and my eyes watering by the time I finished it.
Monday, Aug. 4, 2008--Bangkok
Turkish Airlines has an add on TV now that shows them rolling out a red carpet for individual customers. Well, I didn't find the red carpet when I went to their office today. I wanted to get a seat for my flight from Mumbai to Istanbul on Aug. 18, but I found out that they do not allow seat assignments until one week before a flight. Also, they do not offer economy extra or plus for customers who buy full-fare tickets and/or are classified as elite in the frequent flyer programs of the Star Alliance.
I also went to the offices of Lufthansa and Swiss. I got my seats with Swiss. But Lufthansa classifies its flight from Georgia to Munich as a European flight (even though Georgia is north of the Middle East and the flight is several hours long). Therefore, they would not let me reserve a seat. (Like most European airlines, they do not allow economy seats to be reserved in advance for non-international flights.)
While in the area, I went to the RCA Cinema, an additional complex that has foreign films. I seldom go there, because it is rather far away from where I usually am. Anyway, I saw the film A Year without Love. I had read the book, so I remembered much of the story.
I returned to the restaurant where I had such a good meal two days ago for my dinner. This time, I had a similar dish to what I had before, but it was with pork instead of with chicken.
Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2008--Bangkok
I returned to the north side of Bangkok today to find the Center for the Blind. Sure enough, it was where I expected it to be. I had to go a bit out of my way getting there due to bad directions, but when I reached it, it was very near to where I had already decided it should be on the map.
The massages there are a bargain--120 baht for the fan room and 160 baht for the a/c room. That's for a 1 1/2 hour Thai massage--a massage that is mostly built on pressure points. The man who gave me mine was excellent. He paid close attention to what he was doing and was firm, but tender enough not to hurt. Because it is so far north of town, the trip took 6 hours including the massage.
I got off the boat at River Center Mall, the mall that specializes in Asian antiques here in Bangkok. It is just down the street from my former hotel and from where I like to use the Internet. Now that I am finished with the computer, I will eat in the neighborhood before heading back to my hotel for the night.
Tomorrow is my last full day in Bangkok. I've stayed very busy here this time, often being gone from my hotel whole days at a time. Tomorrow, I will return to the main shopping area to see one last film if all goes well.
Saturday, August 02, 2008
Exploring Unknown Parts of Bangkok
Friday, Aug. 1, 2008--Bangkok (Continued)
When I returned to my hotel, I went to the Sathorn Sauna. I have never been to it before, although I had noticed their building as I had passed it when it was on Rama IV Blvd. That is now the site of a multi-level office building, and the sauna has moved to a neighborhood behind my hotel in an old home. It was okay, but I did not like it as well as the nearby Silom Sauna which I visited last year due to limited space and facilities. The Silom has a bigger pool, more seating area for resting between bouts in the sauna, and also gets a more varied clientel--a mixture of ages including families, whereas the Sathorn gets mostly men in their 40s and 50s.
Saturday, Aug. 2, 2008--Bangkok
Yesterday morning at breakfast, I could not find the chile sauce to have with my omelette and potatoes. As I asked for it, a nearby man of Chinese descent overhead and pointed it out to me. Then last night as I returned to the hotel to pick up my key, he was at the front of the hotel himself making arrangements for leaving today. He recognized me and said hello. Well, this morning, he came for breakfast while I was there and joined me. His name is Kee and he is an IT specialist with a company from Malaysia that services banking operations. He has been here on business.
As we visited, I learned that his flight wasn't until the end of the day. As he asked me about my visits to Bangkok, he was interested in information about the sauna and about the blind massage parlour I plan to try to find this time that is in the far northern part of Bangkok. By the time breakfast was over, we had made plans to go together to try to find the massage parlour today.
We took a bus to the riverfront where we caught an express boat to its last stop--Nontaburi. Then we caught a 32 bus to take us to the area of the sauna. All we knew was that it was on a side street to this major street. Unfortunately, it is such a long street that it has side streets with similar names within different sections of northern Bangkok. We got off the bus too soon, I think, and were searching on the street with the right name but in the wrong neighborhood. Kee's time was running out, so we had to reverse ourselves and get him back to the hotel to catch a taxi to the hotel. But I promised him I will go back out to the area and find the massage parlour one day this week and will send him directions, since he comes to Bangkok often on business. I think I have a better idea where to look now.
It was fun spending the day with Kee. He's a nice young man (33 y.o.). Since I will be going through Kuala Lumpur where he lives next year, I will probably stop now. I had planned just to transit through there. But Kee told me there are foreign films with English subtitles there. And it would be nice to see him and explore his city with him for a day or two. Maybe we can find a blind massage parlour there in KL!!
I went to the night market across the street from my hotel to try to find a place to eat. I didn't really see anything I wanted, however. It is much like the Weekend Market--a huge development with lots of stalls selling just about anything anyone could imagine. But the number of food stalls was limited. Most people going there seem to eat in restaurants. I didn't want to pay the price for that, and I didn't want to occupy a table by myself on a Saturday night when others would be wanting tables.
I returned to the area behind my hotel and searched. I found a small food stall with tables there where a woman was preparing a dish that looked fantastic. I ordered the same. It was stir-fried egg noodles with fresh tomatoes and onions, fried egg, and chicken. It was so tasty and delicious!!!
When I returned to my hotel, I went to the Sathorn Sauna. I have never been to it before, although I had noticed their building as I had passed it when it was on Rama IV Blvd. That is now the site of a multi-level office building, and the sauna has moved to a neighborhood behind my hotel in an old home. It was okay, but I did not like it as well as the nearby Silom Sauna which I visited last year due to limited space and facilities. The Silom has a bigger pool, more seating area for resting between bouts in the sauna, and also gets a more varied clientel--a mixture of ages including families, whereas the Sathorn gets mostly men in their 40s and 50s.
Saturday, Aug. 2, 2008--Bangkok
Yesterday morning at breakfast, I could not find the chile sauce to have with my omelette and potatoes. As I asked for it, a nearby man of Chinese descent overhead and pointed it out to me. Then last night as I returned to the hotel to pick up my key, he was at the front of the hotel himself making arrangements for leaving today. He recognized me and said hello. Well, this morning, he came for breakfast while I was there and joined me. His name is Kee and he is an IT specialist with a company from Malaysia that services banking operations. He has been here on business.
As we visited, I learned that his flight wasn't until the end of the day. As he asked me about my visits to Bangkok, he was interested in information about the sauna and about the blind massage parlour I plan to try to find this time that is in the far northern part of Bangkok. By the time breakfast was over, we had made plans to go together to try to find the massage parlour today.
We took a bus to the riverfront where we caught an express boat to its last stop--Nontaburi. Then we caught a 32 bus to take us to the area of the sauna. All we knew was that it was on a side street to this major street. Unfortunately, it is such a long street that it has side streets with similar names within different sections of northern Bangkok. We got off the bus too soon, I think, and were searching on the street with the right name but in the wrong neighborhood. Kee's time was running out, so we had to reverse ourselves and get him back to the hotel to catch a taxi to the hotel. But I promised him I will go back out to the area and find the massage parlour one day this week and will send him directions, since he comes to Bangkok often on business. I think I have a better idea where to look now.
It was fun spending the day with Kee. He's a nice young man (33 y.o.). Since I will be going through Kuala Lumpur where he lives next year, I will probably stop now. I had planned just to transit through there. But Kee told me there are foreign films with English subtitles there. And it would be nice to see him and explore his city with him for a day or two. Maybe we can find a blind massage parlour there in KL!!
I went to the night market across the street from my hotel to try to find a place to eat. I didn't really see anything I wanted, however. It is much like the Weekend Market--a huge development with lots of stalls selling just about anything anyone could imagine. But the number of food stalls was limited. Most people going there seem to eat in restaurants. I didn't want to pay the price for that, and I didn't want to occupy a table by myself on a Saturday night when others would be wanting tables.
I returned to the area behind my hotel and searched. I found a small food stall with tables there where a woman was preparing a dish that looked fantastic. I ordered the same. It was stir-fried egg noodles with fresh tomatoes and onions, fried egg, and chicken. It was so tasty and delicious!!!
Friday, August 01, 2008
Changes in Bangkok
Thursday, July 31, 2008--Bangkok (Continued)
After being on the Internet, I decided to eat at the street stalls near here where I have often eaten on my previous trips. I picked out one that seemed to look good and had noodle soup with slices of red pork. It was delicious.
I was tired from a long day. I stopped at the supermarket and bought a few items for the room, and then returned for the night. Did you know that Oreos are now being made with a peanut butter filling? I tried them, but they still needed a bit more of a peanut taste, I thought.
I have a new item to put on my packing list when traveling: a strong light bulb. So many rooms, especially in Asia, have limited lighting. Where they do have lights, they are low-wattage florescent ones. Here, the florescent bulbs are made with U-shaped tubes, and the typical hotel buys the ones with only two tubes. That's probably the equivalent of 35-40 watts for an incandescent bulb. I want to pack myself a bulb with 3-4 tubes so I can put it in place of theirs when I want to read or see well for grooming.
Friday, Aug. 1, 2008--Bangkok
I awoke wondering if the breakfast at my new hotel would be as good as the one I have enjoyed at the Mandarin for the past few years. Going to breakfast there each morning has been a special treat. Well, the Pinnacle has just as good a breakfast. In fact, it is better in some respects. It is a buffet, and I followed my usual routine. I started with a plate of non-sweets--omelette, cheese, grilled tomato, ham, chicken sausage, mixed Asian vegies, fried potato chunks, and chile sauce. Then I had a plate of French toast with bacon. (The bacon was tough and not as tasty as at the Mandarin, unfortunately.) Then I had a plate of fresh fruits (watermelon, papaya, and pineapple) and pastries (cinnamon pastry and cheese pastry). I drank pineapple juice and coffee. UMMMM!
On my way to the dentist this morning, I passed the United Airlines office, so I got my seat assignments for my 3 flights with them on the new ticket. While here, I also need to go to the Turkish Airlines and the Lufthansa Airlines offices to get seat assignments.
Although I had an e-mail confirming an appointment, it somehow didn't get on the books at my dentist office. They were fully booked for the time I expected, too. But they have a second office just 3 blocks away, and there was an available dentist there. I was surprised when the dentist found four cavaties. I haven't had but one cavaty in the last 35 years or so. The only fillings I have been getting are along the tops of the teeth where I've had receding gums due to aging. Anyway, 3 of the four were apparently very small and the other was a bit bigger. He drilled and filled all four of them in less than 20 minutes. Then he cleaned my teeth. I was out of there in about 45 minutes total. The cost this time was a little over 4000 Baht--about $120 U.S. for inspection, cleaning, and filling 4 cavaties.
I knew that the foreign films normally begin at noon here, and it was 11:50 when I left the dentist's office. I rushed to the local theater nearby and got a ticket for the noon showing of Red Cliff, a John Woo film. I didn't realize it at the time, but it was only half a film. It ends with the words, "To Be Continued." So there will be another film coming out showing the great battle that is about to happen when the film ends. It was interesting. I enjoyed the story. I had trouble at times telling the characters apart, since they all wore similar armor and had similar facial features. I hope I will remember to see Part II when it is released.
Unfortunately, there aren't many choices in foreign films right now. There are too many American big-budget films showing. I had hoped to see 3-4 films as I usually do. I will be lucky to see more than two this year.
It's fun to see the changes when I return to Bangkok each year. Finally, a two-tower construction project I have been watching for years has been finished. It actually began about 10 years ago, I guess, but it was a victum of the economic bust in Asia that occurred back then. The towers stood as a skeleton for years. Then construction began again maybe 4 years ago. They are just now opening. One is an office tower, the other is a condo tower, and between the two is a food court/shopping area. Only a few establishments are open in that lower area, but there is much work to open more in the near future. It's just good to see the metal fences removed and the huge area coming to life.
Another fascinating change is with the shopping mall called Siam Center. It was built years ago as a mall with exclusive boutiques by major designers. But then two more malls were built on either side of it and stole those retailers from them. Last year, Siam Center was undergoing remodeling while staying open. Well, this year it is a totally different mall. It is being called the Siam Center for Fun and Fashion, and every store in it is for the trendy young crowd. The only designer names or major retailers there are the ones that cater to the young--Esprit, Swatch, etc. Most of the stores are names that are unknown. And all of them have unique and exciting options for the truly young--high school and college crowds for the most part.
I stopped at the university to go through their gallery as usual. There was nothing of interest to me this year. One of the smaller galleries that usually has some good exhibits isn't open right now. Maybe a show will open in the next week while I am still here. In the meantime, I also went to the floor in Paragon Center that has the contemporary furniture stores to see whether they had anything of interest. I did see a nice dining table, but not necessarily one I would want. It was fun to look, however.
After being on the Internet, I decided to eat at the street stalls near here where I have often eaten on my previous trips. I picked out one that seemed to look good and had noodle soup with slices of red pork. It was delicious.
I was tired from a long day. I stopped at the supermarket and bought a few items for the room, and then returned for the night. Did you know that Oreos are now being made with a peanut butter filling? I tried them, but they still needed a bit more of a peanut taste, I thought.
I have a new item to put on my packing list when traveling: a strong light bulb. So many rooms, especially in Asia, have limited lighting. Where they do have lights, they are low-wattage florescent ones. Here, the florescent bulbs are made with U-shaped tubes, and the typical hotel buys the ones with only two tubes. That's probably the equivalent of 35-40 watts for an incandescent bulb. I want to pack myself a bulb with 3-4 tubes so I can put it in place of theirs when I want to read or see well for grooming.
Friday, Aug. 1, 2008--Bangkok
I awoke wondering if the breakfast at my new hotel would be as good as the one I have enjoyed at the Mandarin for the past few years. Going to breakfast there each morning has been a special treat. Well, the Pinnacle has just as good a breakfast. In fact, it is better in some respects. It is a buffet, and I followed my usual routine. I started with a plate of non-sweets--omelette, cheese, grilled tomato, ham, chicken sausage, mixed Asian vegies, fried potato chunks, and chile sauce. Then I had a plate of French toast with bacon. (The bacon was tough and not as tasty as at the Mandarin, unfortunately.) Then I had a plate of fresh fruits (watermelon, papaya, and pineapple) and pastries (cinnamon pastry and cheese pastry). I drank pineapple juice and coffee. UMMMM!
On my way to the dentist this morning, I passed the United Airlines office, so I got my seat assignments for my 3 flights with them on the new ticket. While here, I also need to go to the Turkish Airlines and the Lufthansa Airlines offices to get seat assignments.
Although I had an e-mail confirming an appointment, it somehow didn't get on the books at my dentist office. They were fully booked for the time I expected, too. But they have a second office just 3 blocks away, and there was an available dentist there. I was surprised when the dentist found four cavaties. I haven't had but one cavaty in the last 35 years or so. The only fillings I have been getting are along the tops of the teeth where I've had receding gums due to aging. Anyway, 3 of the four were apparently very small and the other was a bit bigger. He drilled and filled all four of them in less than 20 minutes. Then he cleaned my teeth. I was out of there in about 45 minutes total. The cost this time was a little over 4000 Baht--about $120 U.S. for inspection, cleaning, and filling 4 cavaties.
I knew that the foreign films normally begin at noon here, and it was 11:50 when I left the dentist's office. I rushed to the local theater nearby and got a ticket for the noon showing of Red Cliff, a John Woo film. I didn't realize it at the time, but it was only half a film. It ends with the words, "To Be Continued." So there will be another film coming out showing the great battle that is about to happen when the film ends. It was interesting. I enjoyed the story. I had trouble at times telling the characters apart, since they all wore similar armor and had similar facial features. I hope I will remember to see Part II when it is released.
Unfortunately, there aren't many choices in foreign films right now. There are too many American big-budget films showing. I had hoped to see 3-4 films as I usually do. I will be lucky to see more than two this year.
It's fun to see the changes when I return to Bangkok each year. Finally, a two-tower construction project I have been watching for years has been finished. It actually began about 10 years ago, I guess, but it was a victum of the economic bust in Asia that occurred back then. The towers stood as a skeleton for years. Then construction began again maybe 4 years ago. They are just now opening. One is an office tower, the other is a condo tower, and between the two is a food court/shopping area. Only a few establishments are open in that lower area, but there is much work to open more in the near future. It's just good to see the metal fences removed and the huge area coming to life.
Another fascinating change is with the shopping mall called Siam Center. It was built years ago as a mall with exclusive boutiques by major designers. But then two more malls were built on either side of it and stole those retailers from them. Last year, Siam Center was undergoing remodeling while staying open. Well, this year it is a totally different mall. It is being called the Siam Center for Fun and Fashion, and every store in it is for the trendy young crowd. The only designer names or major retailers there are the ones that cater to the young--Esprit, Swatch, etc. Most of the stores are names that are unknown. And all of them have unique and exciting options for the truly young--high school and college crowds for the most part.
I stopped at the university to go through their gallery as usual. There was nothing of interest to me this year. One of the smaller galleries that usually has some good exhibits isn't open right now. Maybe a show will open in the next week while I am still here. In the meantime, I also went to the floor in Paragon Center that has the contemporary furniture stores to see whether they had anything of interest. I did see a nice dining table, but not necessarily one I would want. It was fun to look, however.
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